We tend to associate Beaujolais Villages with light, inoffensive, brightly fruited wines. That definition might hold true for most examples, but it certainly doesn’t for the wines of Jean-Claude Lapalu. His 2009 Beaujolais-Villages ‘Le Rang du Merle’ transcends the appellation and, in turn, one’s expectations.
14.5% ABV for a Beaujolais Villages puts this wine very much in the super-heavyweight division. Yet, this is not a clumsy or overdone wine in any sense. The bouquet is at one arresting and complex; an inviting array of floral, game and summer fruits. On the palate, the wine is rich and exuberant, yet never flirts with excess. The alcohol, while high, is barely perceptible, addS a touch of glycerol and weight in the mouth, but nothing more.
Wines like this provide ample evidence that Beaujolais is a region undergoing a slow and positive revival. It is by no means cheap for a Beaujolais Villages – around 15 Euro from one of Lyon’s finest wine retailers – but nor should it be cheap as it is an outstanding example of its type.
Many draw a link between the wines of Beaujolais and its northern neighbour, Burgundy. However, as with many quality Beaujolais, this is a wine that shares more in common with the Syrah-based wines of the Rhône Valley south of Lyon. In time, perhaps we will be happy to appreciate the wines of Beaujolais as fine wines in their own right, not for their ‘Burgundian’ or ‘Rhône-like’ nature.
2009 BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES ‘LE RANG DU MERLE’
Producer: Jean-Claude Lapalu
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 15.00 Euros
Date tasted: 7 September 2013
Tasting Note:
Medium cherry red. Thick legs. Open, rich and brooding nose – profound even – animal fur, game, liqueur cherry, damson, floral notes (lilac). Rich, powerful and mouthfilling. NOT for those seeking typicity at this level, but extremely impressive for its power, richness and overall balance. Although it is a ‘big’ wine, it displays balance and harmony. Quite a remarkable wine that redefines Beaujolais Villages.
Score: 17++/20
14.5% ABV for a Beaujolais Villages puts this wine very much in the super-heavyweight division. Yet, this is not a clumsy or overdone wine in any sense. The bouquet is at one arresting and complex; an inviting array of floral, game and summer fruits. On the palate, the wine is rich and exuberant, yet never flirts with excess. The alcohol, while high, is barely perceptible, addS a touch of glycerol and weight in the mouth, but nothing more.
Wines like this provide ample evidence that Beaujolais is a region undergoing a slow and positive revival. It is by no means cheap for a Beaujolais Villages – around 15 Euro from one of Lyon’s finest wine retailers – but nor should it be cheap as it is an outstanding example of its type.
Many draw a link between the wines of Beaujolais and its northern neighbour, Burgundy. However, as with many quality Beaujolais, this is a wine that shares more in common with the Syrah-based wines of the Rhône Valley south of Lyon. In time, perhaps we will be happy to appreciate the wines of Beaujolais as fine wines in their own right, not for their ‘Burgundian’ or ‘Rhône-like’ nature.
2009 BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES ‘LE RANG DU MERLE’Producer: Jean-Claude Lapalu
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 15.00 Euros
Date tasted: 7 September 2013
Tasting Note:
Medium cherry red. Thick legs. Open, rich and brooding nose – profound even – animal fur, game, liqueur cherry, damson, floral notes (lilac). Rich, powerful and mouthfilling. NOT for those seeking typicity at this level, but extremely impressive for its power, richness and overall balance. Although it is a ‘big’ wine, it displays balance and harmony. Quite a remarkable wine that redefines Beaujolais Villages.
Score: 17++/20
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