The central Loire Valley has pretty much a monopoly when it comes to single varietal Cabernet Franc. The appellations of Chinon, Bourgueil and St Nicolas de Bourgueil set the standard when it comes to the variety. For one reason or another, they tend to be wines appreciated by a relatively select few. Accordingly, the very best examples are very reasonably priced.
Under-ripe Cabernet Franc can be rather unpleasant, with painfully astringent tannins. However, the best examples of the variety display lovely fragrant aromatics, a ripe yet savoury palate, framed by fine tannins and fresh acidity. These elegant and extremely food friendly wines are well suited to Australia’s warm climate; medium in body and with a natural freshness typical of the best wines of the cool Loire Valley.
This particular example was organically farmed by Domaine du Mortier, a relatively new player in St Nicolas de Bourgueil. Slightly reductive at first, it displays the best attributes of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc; a red-fruited nose, stylish palate and bright lifted acidity. To be fair, it is just a youngster, and will benefit from another 4-6 years in bottle. Cabernet Franc, take a bow, you’ve won this drinker over.
2010 ST NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL ‘DIONYSOS’
Producer: Domaine du Mortier
Variety: Cabernet Franc
Vintage: 2010
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $34.00
Date tasted: 6 October 2013
Tasting Note:
Deep ruby red. Slightly reductive on opening, but blows off with air, rhubarb, raspberry coulis, blackcurrant, pencil shavings. Dry, ripe blackcurrant/raspberry fruit up-front, graphite, woodsmoke, elegant and medium bodied, ripe fine tannins, well integrated fine acidity on the finish. Quite primary – needs 5 or so years in the cellar.
Score: 16.5/20
Under-ripe Cabernet Franc can be rather unpleasant, with painfully astringent tannins. However, the best examples of the variety display lovely fragrant aromatics, a ripe yet savoury palate, framed by fine tannins and fresh acidity. These elegant and extremely food friendly wines are well suited to Australia’s warm climate; medium in body and with a natural freshness typical of the best wines of the cool Loire Valley.
This particular example was organically farmed by Domaine du Mortier, a relatively new player in St Nicolas de Bourgueil. Slightly reductive at first, it displays the best attributes of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc; a red-fruited nose, stylish palate and bright lifted acidity. To be fair, it is just a youngster, and will benefit from another 4-6 years in bottle. Cabernet Franc, take a bow, you’ve won this drinker over.
2010 ST NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL ‘DIONYSOS’
Producer: Domaine du Mortier
Variety: Cabernet Franc
Vintage: 2010
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $34.00
Date tasted: 6 October 2013
Tasting Note:
Deep ruby red. Slightly reductive on opening, but blows off with air, rhubarb, raspberry coulis, blackcurrant, pencil shavings. Dry, ripe blackcurrant/raspberry fruit up-front, graphite, woodsmoke, elegant and medium bodied, ripe fine tannins, well integrated fine acidity on the finish. Quite primary – needs 5 or so years in the cellar.
Score: 16.5/20
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