In France, as anywhere, producer is key. Appellation is only a guarantee of origin, not of quality. In the enormous Côtes du Rhône AOC, this assertion is particularly true. From dilute and thoroughly uninspiring wines to would-be Chateauneuf-du-Pape such as Château de Beaucastel’s Coudoulet de Beaucastel, it is a region of immense scale and range in quality.
There is also the question of cépage. Many of the larger negociant bottlings (including those of Guigal and Delas) are Syrah dominant. They are quite different beasts to the many Grenache-heavy Côtes du Rhônes. This particular imbiber admits to being rather impartial to Grenache, a sometimes derided variety that can veer toward confectionary flavours if not handled correctly.
This particular Côtes du Rhône, from Cairanne-based Domaine Richaud showcases the appellation in the best possible light. By all accounts, the domaine references the great Chateauneuf-du-Pape estate Château Rayas as its benchmark. Those familiar Rayas will know that is recognised for producing 100% Grenache wines of great finesse, elegance and aromatic complexity.
This particular wine doesn’t quite ascend to those heights, but it is a superior Côtes du Rhône. It maintains a lovely balance of sweet up-front fruit, floral aromatics, spice and a hint of the wild. While not enormously complex, there is sufficient depth and structure to suggest that it should hold and indeed develop in bottle for a further 2-3 years.
2012 CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROUGE ‘TERRE D’AIGLES’Producer: Domaine Richaud
Variety: Grenache et al (Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Mourvedre, Counoise)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 15%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 10.00 Euros
Date tasted: 10 September 2013
Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Open nose of cherry confiture/kirsch, raspberry, floral notes, meaty/gamey, fennel and thyme. Quite a pretty nose. Sweet fruited up-front, very soft tannins, quite luxurious. Does not show its 15% ABV! Savoury mid-palate leading to a spice-laden finish. Superior glugging Côtes du Rhône – little to complain about!
Score: 16/20
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