30 May 2012

2009 CALABRIA AGLIANICO - EXCEPTIONAL VALUE

With the exception of De Bortoli’s Noble One, the warm Riverina region is not generally seen as a source for high quality wine. The irrigated vineyards adjacent to the River Murray near the New South Wales and Victorian borders are far better known for producing millions of bottles of commercial branded wine, generally of modest quality.

Yet, as with all regions, there are exceptions. Over the past decade or so, some Riverina producers have experimented with non-traditional varietals. One such varietal is Aglianico, a grape that is capable of producing sturdy, tannic and extremely long-lived wines in Italy’s south. So high is Aglianico esteemed that it some quarters it is sometimes referred to as the ‘Barolo of the south’.

With the strong southern Italian heritage in the Riverina district, it is perhaps of little surprise that Italian varietals have been planted. Westend Estate, established by the Calabria family in 1945, is one such producer with an Italian background. Although best know for commercial to mid-premium wines under various brands, wines with the Calabria designation are made from non-traditional varietals.  Thus far, Aglianico and the little known Saint Macaire have been bottled under the Calabria label.

2009 Calabria Aglianico by Westend Estate is a good effort, with bright cherry fruit, and distinctive notes of leather and fig. Although it doesn’t possess the firm tannic structure one associates with the variety in its place of origin, this is a very good wine. More importantly, it sits well with Italian food, a must for any wine of this nature. Priced at around $15 a bottle, it represents excellent value for money, and is a most definite repeat buy.

2009 CALABRIA AGLIANICO
Producer: Westend Estate
Variety: Aglianico
Vintage: 2009
Region: Riverina, New South Wales
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $15.00
Date tasted: 25 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Mid ruby red. Bright nose of leather, fig, cherry and plum. Medium bodied, sweet cherry/plum fruit, leather. Balanced acidity. Good length. There’s decent varietal character here, although perhaps without the tannin that one can find in Aglianico. Of its style, very good, particularly given the price-point.
Score: 16/20

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