30 May 2012

2009 SOUL GROWERS EQUILIBRIUM SGM - IT'S JUST A SOUL KIND OF FEELING

Soul Growers is a small producer formed by a quartet of friends in 1998. It produces several wines from the Barossa Valley palette of Rhône varietals (Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvèdre) as well as a Barossa Valley Chardonnay and Eden Valley Riesling. The wines draw on fruit from estate vineyards, which are supplemented by bought in fruit as needed.

Southern Rhône-inspired blends from the Barossa Valley have come a long way in the past 20-30 years. Traditional used as a workhorse grape for various ‘Port’ style fortified wines, Grenache was banished is a grape for still table wines until the 1980’s, and didn’t become fashionable until a decade later. Unfortunately, with the odd exception (such as Charles Melton’s Nine Popes), many of the early expressions of Grenache and blends thereof were either characterised by over-ripe confected fruit, or hammered into submission by new oak.

However, things have changed a lot, and the style has become more savoury, aromatic and sophisticated. Yes, the wines are rich and toward the higher end of the alcohol scale, but that is the nature of warm climate wines such as these, be they from Avignon or Tanunda.

Equilibrium SGM has an alluring, slightly floral nose, together with bold spice and plum/cherry fruit. There’s a lot of promise here. Unfortunately, the immediate complexity on the nose doesn’t quite flow through to the palate. Although savoury in style, it is rather straightforward on the palate, finishing with noticeable warming alcohol. This reviewer doesn’t have an issue with wines at the higher end of the alcohol spectrum – balance is key – and the alcohol in this particular wine is on the warming side.

All in all, Equilibrium is a good rather than great wine.   If it was down to the bouquet alone, it would score highly, but the palate lets it down somewhat.

2009 EQUILIBRIUM SHIRAZ GRENACHE MOURVÈDRE
Producer: Soul Growers
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2009
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $26.00
Date tasted: 26 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby verging to crimson. Alluring perfumed nose, quite floral (rose, lilac), cinnamon, clove, cracked black pepper, anise, dark plum, black cherry. Medium to full bodied, quite savoury in profile. The promise on the nose doesn’t quite carry through to the palate, which is relatively straightforward. A touch of alcohol heat on the back palate detracts somewhat.
Score: 15.5/20

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