21 May 2012

2004 CHÂTEAU LA TOUR CARNET - RESTRAINED MODERNITY

Château La Tour Carnet is a relatively low profile Medoc 4th Growth.  The property had a fairly undistinguished history until its acquisition by cashed up entrepreneur Bernard Magrez in 1999. Following its acquisition, the Magrez regime implemented a number of measures that are characteristic of such overhauls of underperforming properties in Bordeaux.

These changes resulted in the production of wines that, although undoubtedly modern and slick in style, are undeniably better than the wines that preceded them. While those of a classical persuasion might question the benefit of picking at low yields at the precipice of ripeness, strict fruit selection, extended time in new oak (La Tour Carnet sees roughly 50% new oak for up to 18 months, not seemingly excessive) and the increased use of Merlot in the final blend, there is little doubt that such so-called modern viticultural and winemaking practices succeed, at least in ‘lighter’ years such as 2004.

The 2004 Château La Tour Carnet is possessed of a deep crimson colour, with a brooding nose of cassis, plum and smoky oak. Ripeness isn’t an issue here, but it has been achieved without losing a sense of place or leading to an internationally styled wine. Although merely good rather than exceptional, this is an enjoyable red Bordeaux with definite upside with a further 5 or so years cellaring. There are no green edges that would have lighter vintage wines of this pedigree in the 1960’s and 1970’s. What we have instead is a solid Bordeaux, nothing spectacular, but good for what it is.

2004 CHÂTEAU LA TOUR CARNET
Producer: Château La Tour Carnet
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2004
Region: St Laurent – Bordeaux, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 19 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Open and inviting nose of cassis, plum, dark cherries, smoky oak/charcoal and pencil shavings. Medium bodied, dry and savoury with good fruit intensity, characters much the same as the nose. There’s still plenty of structure here in the form of fine powdery tannins.
Score: 16.5+/20

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