2010 DOMAINE DES BACCHANTES CÔTES DU RHÔNE - NOT YOUR AVERAGE CÔTES DU RHÔNE

The Côtes du Rhône is an enormous appellation with considerable variation in quality. At its worst, the wines can be thin, insipid and vapid. At their best, they deliver much of the character of many smarter appellations at a modest price.

Many of the better Côtes du Rhônes are bottled by the negoçiant arms of the bigger players in the Rhone Valley; names such as Guigal, Chapoutier and Delas come to mind. They often represent very good value for money, and in better vintages can develop in bottle for several years.

Domaine des Bacchantes Côtes du Rhône is the produced by a co-operative, Les Vignerons d’Esterzargues. Its quality is testimony to the enormous strides achieved in France over the past couple of decades. It is not just the wines at the top of the tree that have improved, but everyday drinking wines such as these.

At Les Vignerons d’Esterzargues, the wines of its different member growers are vinified and bottled as separate cuvées, in this case as Domaine des Bacchantes. While the quality of the fruit going into some of the cuvees is clearly very good, especially in vintages such as 2010, there is a clearly an intelligent hand at the winemaking rudder. There is clearly a lot of extract in this Syrah dominant blend, but not at the expense of balance. The use of sulphur is minimal, being added only at the time of bottling. Similarly, the wine is bottled without fining or filtration.

In sum, this is wine that is treated with the same care as a Châteauneuf-du-Pape luxury cuvée, but with a more humble origin and modest price-tag. There’s lots to enjoy in this big boned wine, plenty of depth of fruit and a touch of spicy complexity. Although drinking well now, it should hold for 3-4 years.

2010 CÔTES DU RHÔNE, DOMAINE DES BACCHANTES
Producer: Les Vignerons d’Esterzargues
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Natural Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.99
Date tasted: 30 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Brooding nose of kirsch, black cherry, blackberry, star anise and liquorice. Full bodied but not rich or heavy, relatively low acidity, the characters on the nose follow through to the palate, which displays excellent fruit intensity for a wine at this level. Although there’s quite a lot of extract and the alcohol level is high, the wine is well balanced.
Score: 16/20

SYRAHMI DEMI SHIRAZ - DOESN'T DO THINGS BY HALVES

Syrahmi is the brainchild of Adam Foster, who gave up his restaurant career to pursue his passion for wine. He makes wines from Heathcote fruit under the Syrahmi label, and with friend Lincoln Riley, focusing on Italian varietals, under the Foster e Rocco moniker.

This is a cleverly assembled Shiraz, one that is made for drinking here and now. It doesn’t carry the killer punch of some Heathcote Shiraz, and that is not a bad thing. This is a Shiraz to be enjoyed in the flourish of youth, either on its own or with food.   In this sense, it is an ideal 'bistro' wine, the sort of drop you'd expect to see being poured by the glass at a trendy wine bar or licensed cafe.

2011 DEMI HEATHCOTE SHIRAZ
Producer: Syrahmi
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2011
Region: Heathcote, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $26.00
Date tasted: 24 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby red. Interesting nose of liquorice, raspberry, black cherry, blackberry pastilles. Dry, medium bodied, quite elegant for its origin, very supple tannins, well integrated acidity. Stylish palate of moderate intensity, quite plush in texture. Good length. All in all, this is well crafted wine for relatively early drinking.
Score: 16/20

MOUNT MONUMENT - MACEDON RANGES CHARDONNAY

Mount Monument winery is located at over 600 metres elevation in the Macedon Ranges. This is one of Australia’s coolest grape-growing regions, ideally suited to the Burgundian duo, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. As evidenced by Bindi, there are sites in the Macedon Ranges capable of producing wines of the highest quality, especially when there is a sensitive winemaking hand at work.

The 2010 Mount Monument Chardonnay is a classic cool climate barrel fermented Chardonnay, with a nice interplay of peach/melon fruit and nutty oak. It isn’t as lean or taut as some contemporary Australian Chardonnays, and is accessible at a relatively early age. While clearly well made, it just lacks a little for excitement, that certain je ne sais quoi that separates the good from the very, very good.

2010 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Mount Monument
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Macedon Ranges, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $30.00
Date tasted: 27 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright silvery yellow with golden glints. Open nose of melon, white peach, toasted oatmeal, cashew and nutty oak. Dry, medium bodied, slightly creamy in texture, well integrated acidity, decent balance of peach stonefruit and nutty oak. Overall, a well balanced Chardonnay displaying barrel ferment complexity.
Score: 16/20

2009 CALABRIA AGLIANICO - EXCEPTIONAL VALUE

With the exception of De Bortoli’s Noble One, the warm Riverina region is not generally seen as a source for high quality wine. The irrigated vineyards adjacent to the River Murray near the New South Wales and Victorian borders are far better known for producing millions of bottles of commercial branded wine, generally of modest quality.

Yet, as with all regions, there are exceptions. Over the past decade or so, some Riverina producers have experimented with non-traditional varietals. One such varietal is Aglianico, a grape that is capable of producing sturdy, tannic and extremely long-lived wines in Italy’s south. So high is Aglianico esteemed that it some quarters it is sometimes referred to as the ‘Barolo of the south’.

With the strong southern Italian heritage in the Riverina district, it is perhaps of little surprise that Italian varietals have been planted. Westend Estate, established by the Calabria family in 1945, is one such producer with an Italian background. Although best know for commercial to mid-premium wines under various brands, wines with the Calabria designation are made from non-traditional varietals.  Thus far, Aglianico and the little known Saint Macaire have been bottled under the Calabria label.

2009 Calabria Aglianico by Westend Estate is a good effort, with bright cherry fruit, and distinctive notes of leather and fig. Although it doesn’t possess the firm tannic structure one associates with the variety in its place of origin, this is a very good wine. More importantly, it sits well with Italian food, a must for any wine of this nature. Priced at around $15 a bottle, it represents excellent value for money, and is a most definite repeat buy.

2009 CALABRIA AGLIANICO
Producer: Westend Estate
Variety: Aglianico
Vintage: 2009
Region: Riverina, New South Wales
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $15.00
Date tasted: 25 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Mid ruby red. Bright nose of leather, fig, cherry and plum. Medium bodied, sweet cherry/plum fruit, leather. Balanced acidity. Good length. There’s decent varietal character here, although perhaps without the tannin that one can find in Aglianico. Of its style, very good, particularly given the price-point.
Score: 16/20

2009 SOUL GROWERS EQUILIBRIUM SGM - IT'S JUST A SOUL KIND OF FEELING

Soul Growers is a small producer formed by a quartet of friends in 1998. It produces several wines from the Barossa Valley palette of Rhône varietals (Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvèdre) as well as a Barossa Valley Chardonnay and Eden Valley Riesling. The wines draw on fruit from estate vineyards, which are supplemented by bought in fruit as needed.

Southern Rhône-inspired blends from the Barossa Valley have come a long way in the past 20-30 years. Traditional used as a workhorse grape for various ‘Port’ style fortified wines, Grenache was banished is a grape for still table wines until the 1980’s, and didn’t become fashionable until a decade later. Unfortunately, with the odd exception (such as Charles Melton’s Nine Popes), many of the early expressions of Grenache and blends thereof were either characterised by over-ripe confected fruit, or hammered into submission by new oak.

However, things have changed a lot, and the style has become more savoury, aromatic and sophisticated. Yes, the wines are rich and toward the higher end of the alcohol scale, but that is the nature of warm climate wines such as these, be they from Avignon or Tanunda.

Equilibrium SGM has an alluring, slightly floral nose, together with bold spice and plum/cherry fruit. There’s a lot of promise here. Unfortunately, the immediate complexity on the nose doesn’t quite flow through to the palate. Although savoury in style, it is rather straightforward on the palate, finishing with noticeable warming alcohol. This reviewer doesn’t have an issue with wines at the higher end of the alcohol spectrum – balance is key – and the alcohol in this particular wine is on the warming side.

All in all, Equilibrium is a good rather than great wine.   If it was down to the bouquet alone, it would score highly, but the palate lets it down somewhat.

2009 EQUILIBRIUM SHIRAZ GRENACHE MOURVÈDRE
Producer: Soul Growers
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2009
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $26.00
Date tasted: 26 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby verging to crimson. Alluring perfumed nose, quite floral (rose, lilac), cinnamon, clove, cracked black pepper, anise, dark plum, black cherry. Medium to full bodied, quite savoury in profile. The promise on the nose doesn’t quite carry through to the palate, which is relatively straightforward. A touch of alcohol heat on the back palate detracts somewhat.
Score: 15.5/20

2011 THOMAS WINES BRAEMORE SEMILLON - A HUNTER CLASSIC

Delicate Hunter Valley Semillons, picked relatively early to retain vibrant acidity and fermented to a modest 11% or so alcohol by volume, are an Australian classic. Braemore is one of two single vineyard Semillons made by the talented hands of Andrew Thomas.

The 2011 Thomas Wines Braemore Semillon is cut in classical line. Pale in colour, it possesses an attractive and alluring bouquet of lemongrass, lemon zest and lime, lent lift in the form of stem ginger. This is not a heavy wine in any sense of the word; the palate is barely medium bodied, and is so delicate that it literally dances on the tongue. Fresh and vibrant, it is a mere pup at this point in time, a burst of acidity providing structure.

Like all good Hunter Valley Semillons, this is a wine that will flower in bottle and thanks to its screw cap closure, will do so without the risk of oxidation. Although there is enormous promise for the future, this is not an austere wine. Indeed, it can be enjoyed here and now as an aperitif, with sashimi or freshly shucked oysters.  

2011 BRAEMORE SEMILLON
Producer: Thomas Wines
Variety: Semillon
Vintage: 2011
Region: Hunter Valley, New South Wales
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $27.99
Date tasted: 26 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery lemon. Crystal clean and fresh aromatic nose of lemongrass, stem ginger, lemon zest and lime. At the lighter end of medium bodied, the palate is delicate and fine, characters much the same as the nose. A fine line of acidity provides cut and thrust. This is just a baby and should blossom in bottle.
Score: 16.5+/20

TASMANIAN CABERNET? YOU'D BETTER BELIEVE IT!

On face value, you might think that the marriage of Tasmania and late-ripening grape Cabernet Sauvignon is a disaster waiting to happen, especially when the fruit is sourced from a vineyard not all that far from Hobart. What pleasure is there to be had from green, herbaceous under-ripe Cabernet Sauvignon?

In the case of Stoney Vineyard, the second label of Domaine A, a carefully chosen site in the Coal River Valley allows for a long slow ripening period, during which time the fruit reaches full phenolic ripeness. Yes, it is a cool site, at least compared to the Australian norm, but the site’s aspect and careful vineyard management ensure that Cabernet Sauvignon reaches a near perfect level of ripeness and balance. 

The 2005 Stoney Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a slick ‘ripe vintage’ Bordeaux look-a-like that puts a smile on the face of those with a leaning towards the Médoc. Like its more expensive sibling bottled under the Domaine A label, there is no leafiness or green edges to be found here. It’s not overly complex at this point in time, but there’s a lovely line of sweet cassis married with smoky oak. Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon from many other parts of Australia, there is clear varietal definition; this is unquestionably Cabernet, not merely a dry red that could be just about anything. Although drinking well now, especially with food, there is sufficient structure to suggest that the wine should improve in bottle over the next 3-4 years.

2005 CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Domaine A – Stoney Vineyard
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2005
Region: Coal River Valley, Tasmania
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $29.99
Date tasted: 21 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Mid-crimson. Bright nose of cassis, blackberry and smoky oak. Medium bodied, sweet cassis leads the palate, which is initially rather tight and unyielding, opening up over the course of an hour so. With time is reveals mulberry, charcoal and dark cherries. Acidity is fine and well integrated. Slightly drying tannins carry the finish. Improved when consumed with food, in this instance, Lancashire Hotpot.
Score: 16.5+/20

SEPPELT DP90 RARE TAWNY - HISTORY IN A BOTTLE

Seppelt DP90 Rare Tawny boasts an outstanding show history, placing it as one of Australia’s most awarded wines. It is a wine that is immediately complex, inviting one to revisit it time and again; toffee, caramel, dried peel, figs, raisin, leather, spice – there’s complexity in spades.

Sadly, fortified wines have fallen out of favour with the modern wine drinker. With the days getting shorter and colder, when could be a better time to open a wine like this? Enjoy it on its own, with some blue cheese and walnuts or as an accompaniment to a dessert such a pecan pie, it is a treat that should be savoured.

If one had any quibble with the DP90 Rare Tawny, it perhaps lacks a little elegance. There’s power, richness and a wide breadth of flavours, all in harmony, but it is ever so slightly heavy handed. However, this is a small complaint, as there is so much to enjoy here.

Seppelt DP90 Rare Tawny is undoubtedly one of Australia’s greatest fortified wines, almost has good as Yalumba’s (sadly departed) 50 year old Museum Release Tawny. Those who have fallen out of love with Australian fortified wines should re-acquaint themselves with some of these treasures.

N.V. DP90 RARE TAWNY
Producer: Seppelt
Variety: Fortified Wine - Port
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 20.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 500ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 19 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep amber. Inviting and immediately complex nose of raisins, toffee, caramel, freshly polished wood, leather, fig and grilled nuts – offers something different every time you go back to it. Initially sweet, full bodied and mouthfilling, glorious combination of dried fruit, caramelised orange, roasted nuts, leather and spice. The finish is long and pleasantly dry.
Score: 18.5/20

2004 CHÂTEAU LA TOUR CARNET - RESTRAINED MODERNITY

Château La Tour Carnet is a relatively low profile Medoc 4th Growth.  The property had a fairly undistinguished history until its acquisition by cashed up entrepreneur Bernard Magrez in 1999. Following its acquisition, the Magrez regime implemented a number of measures that are characteristic of such overhauls of underperforming properties in Bordeaux.

These changes resulted in the production of wines that, although undoubtedly modern and slick in style, are undeniably better than the wines that preceded them. While those of a classical persuasion might question the benefit of picking at low yields at the precipice of ripeness, strict fruit selection, extended time in new oak (La Tour Carnet sees roughly 50% new oak for up to 18 months, not seemingly excessive) and the increased use of Merlot in the final blend, there is little doubt that such so-called modern viticultural and winemaking practices succeed, at least in ‘lighter’ years such as 2004.

The 2004 Château La Tour Carnet is possessed of a deep crimson colour, with a brooding nose of cassis, plum and smoky oak. Ripeness isn’t an issue here, but it has been achieved without losing a sense of place or leading to an internationally styled wine. Although merely good rather than exceptional, this is an enjoyable red Bordeaux with definite upside with a further 5 or so years cellaring. There are no green edges that would have lighter vintage wines of this pedigree in the 1960’s and 1970’s. What we have instead is a solid Bordeaux, nothing spectacular, but good for what it is.

2004 CHÂTEAU LA TOUR CARNET
Producer: Château La Tour Carnet
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2004
Region: St Laurent – Bordeaux, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 19 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Open and inviting nose of cassis, plum, dark cherries, smoky oak/charcoal and pencil shavings. Medium bodied, dry and savoury with good fruit intensity, characters much the same as the nose. There’s still plenty of structure here in the form of fine powdery tannins.
Score: 16.5+/20

THIS IS NOT SAUVIGNON BLANC MADAME. THIS IS SANCERRE!

The words that form the title of this particular post were the very same words uttered by one Alphonse Mellot in response to an innocent question asked by one’s better half during a visit to Domaine Alphonse Mellot several years ago.

The stern riposte uttered by the nineteenth generation Alphonse Mellot certainly applies to Pascal Cotat’s Sancerre Blanc ‘Les Monts Damnés’, for it is a wine that is not Sauvignon Blanc as many conventionally know it. Forget ‘cat’s pee round a gooseberry bush’, forget nettles, forget cut grass. This is not a fruity wine nor is it a herbaceous example of its type. The word ‘minerality’ is one all too often used in the world of wine, yet there is no other descriptor that will do the wine justice.

This is Sancerre that smells and tastes of wet stones, Sancerre of a style that only great growers like cousins Pascal and Francois Cotat can produce. With holdings on the steep slopes of ‘Les Monts Damnés’ and ‘La Grande Côte’, the Cotat’s tend to pick later than most other growers in Sancerre. Winemaking favours traditional methods, including the use of seasoned oak and bottling without fining or filtration. The result is wines that speak of their place of origin more than a particular grape variety.

The 2006 vintage of ‘Les Monts Damnés’is still in its flush of youth, quite tight and yet to unfurl. While perhaps not in the league of truly great wines under this label (the 2010 tasted recently looks to be a real winner), it should improve in bottle for at least 3-4 years.

2006 SANCERRE BLANC ‘LES MONTS DAMNÉS’
Producer: Pascal Cotat
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Vintage: 2006
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 19 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery lemon. Intriguing nose of wet pebbles, flint and lemon pith. Dry, medium bodied, savoury, most definitely not ‘fruit-driven’ wine. Like licking wet stones. Touch of tannin on the finish, suggesting skin contact. Bright acidity. Good length. A work in progress at this stage in its life. Needs at least 3-4 years.
Score: 17+/20

CHATEAU DE CARAGUILHES CORBIÈRES BLANC - GIVE IT A TRY!

The white wines of southern France are much ignored. Drawing on a wide palette of grape varieties including Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Rolle (aka Vermentino), they tend to be relatively full in body with the textural richness akin to white Burgundy.  Acidity levels can be low, but this is often addressed through clever blending. They are not wines for simple glugging and are best enjoyed alongside appropriate food.

The Corbières Blanc from organic producer Château de Caraguilhes, a blend of Marsanne and Grenache Blanc, delivers a textbook Marsanne nose of honeysuckle, pear and stonefruit. Just medium bodied, with a fine thread of acidity, it isn’t an easy wine to drink on its own. However, paired with a mildly spiced Chicken Tagine, the wine comes to life, acting as a harmonious partner, not overwhelmed nor overpower the dish.

This is the sort of wine that you could easily drink in a restaurant environment, served alongside a tasting menu. However, in the domestic environment, it is a wine that is all too often ignored in favour of more familiar varietals. We all could do worse than drink more wines of this ilk. It makes a wonderful alternative to Chardonnay, and can be enjoyed with a dish as simple as Roast Chicken or Pan Fried Scallops.

2010 CORBIÈRES BLANC
Producer: Château de Caraguilhes
Variety: Marsanne (80%), Grenache Blanc (20%)
Vintage: 2010
Region: Corbières - Languedoc-Roussillon, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.99
Date tasted: 18 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow. Lifted aromatic nose of honeysuckle, pear, white peach, red apples, background spice. Dry, medium bodied, savoury, there’s a lovely texture to the wine, which glides over the palate, pear and stonefruit to the fore, spice adding a touch of complexity. A very fine foil for Chicken Tagine. Should develop well for up to 5 years, perhaps longer.
Score: 16/20

YABBY LAKE CHARDONNAY - IT'S A WINNER

The wines of Mornington Peninsula producer Yabby Lake have met with considerable critical claim and show success of late. Fashioned by the talented hands of former Yering Station winemaker Tom Carson, both the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs released under the Single Vineyard and Single Block designations have garnered medals and trophies on the show circuit.

The 2010 Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Chardonnay, awarded three trophies at the Royal Melbourne Wine Show, typifies the restrained style of Chardonnay that is favoured in Australia these days; savoury, oak playing a back seat role, partial or no malolactic fermentation. Relatively pale in colour, it is a refined Chardonnay that emphasises elegance and finesse over raw power and winemaker influence.

While some producers have perhaps gone too far, releasing wines that are more austere than restrained, this Yabby Lake Chardonnay just about gets it right. The fruit profile favours white stonefruit. Oak is noticeable but not overbearing, lending nutty complexity. A fine thread of acidity contributes to the wine’s structure and is well integrated.

All in all, this is a very good, if not necessarily outstanding Chardonnay, reflective of some of the better examples being produced in Australia. It should age well, and needs 4-5 years in bottle to really be at its best. Trophy success or otherwise, this is a very good Chardonnay that represents pretty good value for money compared to many of its peers.

2010 SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
Producer: Yabby Lake
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $39.99
Date tasted: 12 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow. Bright nose of white peach, nectarine, red apple, touch of lemon citrus, subtle nutty oak, struck match sulphides. Dry, medium bodied, restrained and savoury, white peach and nectarine interwoven with hazelnut and clove. Acidity is well integrated. Finishes long. An exercise in restraint. Should develop well.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 MICHELINI TEROLDEGO.......THE NEW KID ON THE BLOCK

Teroldego is a little known Italian varietal that makes its home in the north-east of Italy, specifically in Trentino-Alto Adige. It is known for producing deeply coloured wines with modest alcohol and moderate tannins for relatively early consumption.

There are two producers in Australia playing with Teroldego, Blue Poles in Margaret River and Michelini near Myrtleford in the Alpine Valley. The latter seems to pretty much nail the style. Impenetrable crimson in colour, the wine possesses a boisterous black cherry/blueberry nose, reflected on the dry, slightly bitter palate.

This isn’t a particularly complex wine, but it feels authentically Italian, and works extremely well with appropriate Italian food, in this instance a Risotto with Red Wine, Radicchio and Pancetta. I imagine it would work well with any dish suited to Valpolicella Ripasso, such as hearty braised meat dishes, or venison sausages and polenta.

Those with a will to explore and try the new should give this Teroldego a try. There is a distinctly Italian core to this wine, one that is at home with appropriate Italian cuisine.

2010 TEROLDEGO
Producer: Michelini
Variety: Teroldego
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alpine Valley, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $18.50
Date tasted: 3 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Intense nose of black cherry and blueberry coulis, iodine. Dry, medium bodied and savoury, lick of gentle tannin, black cherry comes through on the palate, which is very Italian in feel. Finishes slightly bitter (in a pleasant way), with good acidity and savoury tannin.
Score: 15/20

SINGLE VARIETAL AUSTRALIAN MERLOT........ANYBODY?

Merlot is at the heart of some of the world’s most sought after and expensive wines – Pétrus anyone? In the heavy clay soils of Pomerol and St Emilion, Merlot reaches heights unequalled in the vinous world. The best Merlot-dominant wines from the Right Bank of Bordeaux deliver a combination of richness, flavour and a touch of the exotic, without an excess of alcohol.

Taken away from its Bordeaux home, Merlot all too often lacks structure and depth of flavour. Sure, it works well as a blending grape in a supporting role with the two Cabernets, sometimes with Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, or even paired with Sangiovese or Tempranillo. But single varietal Merlot, particularly from Australia, rarely excites.

Yarra Yarra Vineyards has strong pedigree when it comes to Bordeaux-styles, red and white. It’s flagship ‘Yarra Yarra’ a Cabernet-based blend, is a benchmark it its type, plush and velvety in texture with a savoury profile. The 1999 Yarra Yarra Merlot is clearly a well made wine; it possesses fragrant aromatics, a savoury palate and finishes long. Yet it lacks the excitement factor and class of the other Yarra Yarra wines. All in all, this is a good wine, but one provides further evidence that, with the odd exception, in Australia, Merlot is best used as a blending grape.

1999 MERLOT
Producer: Yarra Yarra Vineyard
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 1999
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 6 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red, fading slightly at the rim. Slightly lifted nose with floral aromatics (lilac?), plum, cherry, cranberry, leather and spice. Dry, medium bodied, savoury, bright plum/cherry fruit interwoven with oak spice. Finishes with good length, but just moderate complexity.
Score: 15.5/20

2008 WARRABILLA MARSANNE - IT'S ALL ABOUT FLAVOUR

Over the years, Warrabilla winery has built up a following almost approaching cult status for its bold, full-flavoured Rutherglen red wines. Warrabilla Shiraz and Durif, particularly those bottled under the Parola’s label, push the limit in terms of ripeness and alcohol. The 2009 Limited Release Parola’s Durif was bottled at an amazing 18% ABV, higher in strength than many of the region’s fortified wines! Notwithstanding the high alcohols, Warrabilla’s red wines are balanced and maintain a sense of drinkability.   Even for those who take their wine very seriously, there is a sense of guilty pleasure in sipping back on a glass of a Warrabilla red.

Keeping with the house style, the Warrabilla Reserve Marsanne is not a subtle wine. It is a full-flavoured wine that carries the imprint of 10 months in new French and American oak barrels. It is a wine that certainly delivers in terms of flavour and works admirably well with similarly full flavoured cuisine, in this case Chicken & 40 Garlic Cloves, a dish that can overpower many wines. One could imagine it working equally well will marinated bugs or  king prawns grilled on the barbecue.   Context is all important here; this is a wine that needs to be drunk alongside appropriate food.

As is the case with Warrabilla’s high octane reds, the Reserve Marsanne isn’t going to be everyone’s cup of tea, yet those who like flavour and don’t mind a generous dose of oak (which should integrate with bottle age) might just enjoy this bold wine.

2008 RESERVE MARSANNE
Producer: Warrabilla
Variety: Marsanne
Vintage: 2008
Region: Robinvale, Victoria
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Diam
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $16.00
Date tasted: 6 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Bold nose of yellow peaches, honeysuckle, melon and vanilla oak. Full flavoured, touch of residual sweetness, the characters on the nose follow through on the palate, the oak prominent but not overly assertive, slightly oily in texture. Best enjoyed not too cold.
Score: 15/20

FREYA RIESLING - RETURN OF THE PRODIGAL SON

Sons of Eden is a collaboration of two partners who draw on over 40 years in various parts of the wine industry in Australia and overseas, including retail, viticulture and winemaking. It is a relatively new entrant into what is already a very crowded marketplace.

If the Sons of Eden 'Freya' Riesling evidence, this is a team that knows what it is doing. The 2011 Riesling is quite different to the Eden Valley and indeed South Australian norm. It is a delicate Riesling, not dissimilar to superior examples from Western Australia, with a clean and pure line of fresh apple orchard fruit, lime playing a mere supporting role.

The 2011 'Freya' Riesling is just a mere baby, and should literally flower in bottle. On evidence of the 2006 vintage of the same wine tasted at the Artisans of the Barossa cellar door (where the Riesling is available for tasting and purchase), a good amount of patience will be needed. The 2006 was still very youthful, needing a further 4-5 years to be at its best.

Riesling lovers would be well advised to look out for the name Sons of Eden. 'Freya' Riesling is a real cracker, and a snip at under $25 per bottle.

2011 'FREYA' RIESLING
Producer: Sons of Eden
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $22.00
Date tasted: 5 May 2012

Tasting Note:
Very pale, silvery white. Clean nose, crystalline pure, very fresh; green apples, Nashi pears, freshly grated lime zest, lifted musky aromatics. Ever so slightly off-dry, delicately structured palate that is shy of medium body. Very bright apple orchard fruit profile, lime peel. Restrained, fine and pure, with a gentle thread of acidity. Should age very well.
Score: 16.5+/20

2011 LA ZONA BARBERA - BRING ON THE PASTA!

Chrismont is a leading King Valley producer, making a wide range of white, red and sparkling wines. Befitting its Italian heritage, there is a strong emphasis on Italian varietals, not just ubiquitous Pinot Grigio, but also Prosecco, Arneis, Marzemino, Sangiovese and Barbera. These are bottled under the La Zona label, while traditional varieties such as Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot and the Shiraz Viognier carry the Chrismont label.

The Chrismont portfolio is characterised by clean, fresh and fruit driven wines, for current drinking and cellaring over the medium term. They are all well made and represent very good value for money.

The 2011 La Zona Barbera is very much in keeping with the house style. It is an aromatically expressive young wine, with oodles of fresh plum, blackberry and cherry fruit. Although fruit forward (in part due to its youth), the palate is savoury and finishes dry. It is an uncomplicated food friendly wine that would be at home with tomato-based pasta dishes.

2011 LA ZONA BARBERA
Producer: Chrismont
Variety: Barbera
Vintage: 2011
Region: King Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $26.00
Date tasted: 26 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red, fading toward the rim. Bright, fresh and fruit forward nose of plum and blackberry. The palate is similarly fruit forward, but dry and savoury, plum and blackberry once again to the fore. A compact and well put together wine for early to mid-term drinking.
Score: 15.5/20

CH. DES JACQUES MOULIN-A-VENT - NO LONGER TILTING AT WINDMILLS

Beaune-based merchant Louis Jadot has been a leading player in the revitalisation of Beaujolais as a wine style and as a region. In 1996, Jadot purchased Château des Jacques and its associated vineyard holdings in the highly regarded Moulin-à-Vent cru.

Following the acquisition, Jadot implemented a different approach to winemaking to that commonly practised in Beaujolais. Carbonic maceration was dispensed with altogether. Drawing on its many decades of experience in Burgundy further north, the Jadot team adopted a Burgundian winemaking approach and also utilised small barrels, some of which were new, for maturing the wines.

In better vintages, it has released up to 5 different single site wines from Moulin-à-Vent, as well as an assemblage that forms the basis of the generic Moulin-à-Vent AC bottling.

The 2009 vintage, an exceptional vintage in Beaujolais, provides strong evidence that the work undertaken by the team at Château des Jacques is reaping dividends. By Beaujolais standards, it is quite deep in colour. The oak is quite evident on the nose, but can’t mask high quality cherry and raspberry fruit, violets lending floral complexity. Befitting a young wine of quality, the palate is dominated by structured sinewy tannins at present; but there is excellent fruit intensity and fine acidity.

Stylistically, the wine is neither Burgundy (and one cannot see it ‘going Pinot’ with bottle age) nor Rhône, but a high quality example of the Gamay grape grown in the granitic soils of Moulin-à-Vent. It is an exciting and excellent value for money wine that should reward 5-7 years cellaring.

2009 MOULIN-À-VENT
Producer: Château des Jacques
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $36.99
Date tasted: 28 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Alluring nose of damson, cherry, violets and woodsmoke. Medium bodied, quite glossy in texture, dry and savoury palate led by cherry/damson fruit, raspberry, slightly earthy. Finishes dry, with sinewy tannins. Needs time.
Score: 17+/20