23 April 2012

YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY...........SWEEEEEET!

Australian Chardonnay has come a long way in the past 10-15 years. Gone is the stereotype of overworked and overdone wines that have had pretty much everything other than the kitchen sink thrown at them. Restraint is the order of the day.

Burgundian winemaking techniques are used, but with a more judicious hand. While many ferment in barrel, the use of new oak has been reined in. Malolactic fermentation has been pulled back in many instances to retain a better sense of freshness.

Helen’s Hill Single Vineyard Chardonnay, from the Yarra Valley, is one such wine that reflects the trend towards slimmed down Chardonnay. Made from fruit picked relatively early and fermented to less than 12 degrees alcohol, it is a mid-weight wine.

While the adoption of a ‘less is more’ philosophy has generally been a positive one in terms of progressing Australian Chardonnay, this particular wine is unfortunately so fruit sweet that the wine is overwhelmed. Many may not have umbrage with the fruit sweetness. Indeed the wine has received critical acclaim in some quarters. However, in this instance, the fruit sweetness is overbearing to the point that it drowns out some of the wine’s more positive attributes.

2010 SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY
Producer: Helen’s Hill
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 11.9%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $26.00
Date tasted: 16 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Medium greenish yellow. Clean nose, touch of smoky/nutty oak, honeydew melon and spiced pear, red apples. The palate is dominated by fruit sweetness to the extent that is verging on off-dry. Touch of green apple and melon fruit interwoven with quality oak. There are some interesting aspects to the wine, but it is unfortunately dominated by the up-front sweetness.
Score: 14/20

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