6 April 2012

IL POGGIONE - AUTHENTIC ROSSO DI MONTALCINO

Rosso di Montalcino was introduced as a DOC in 1983. The DOC extends beyond the boundaries of Brunello di Montalcino. Growers are also allowed to bottle declassified Brunello, typically from younger vines, as Rosso di Montalcino. Rosso di Montalcino can be released earlier than Brunello di Montalcino (which has to be aged for a minimum of 4 years prior to release).

Located in the south of Tuscany, the hillside town of Montalcino is surrounded by vineyards. Unlike Chianti further north, wines bottled as Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino are single varietal and can only be made from Sangiovese. There have been recent controversies, with some growers accused of adulterating their wines with international varietals such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, to appeal to certain drinkers.

This example, from Il Poggione is most definitely 100% Sangiovese. With over 100 hectares under vine, Il Poggione is by no means a small producer. Stylistically, its wines fall in the traditional camp, undergoing maturation in large format 30-50 hectolitre French oak barrels. The result wines are amber-tinged, dry and savoury, with a touch of volatile acidity. They are distinctive wines that are most definitely Tuscan in style.

The 2008 Rosso di Montalcino displays bright cherry fruit typical of Sangiovese, overlaid with notes of polished wood and hickory. Those accustomed to fruit-driven wines might find it a bit of a struggle, but the effort will be worth it, as this is an affordable and authentic expression of Tuscan Sangiovese.

2008 ROSSO DI MONTALCINO
Producer: Il Poggione
Variety: Sangiovese Grosso
Vintage: 2008
Region: Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $29.99
Date tasted: 2 April 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red fading to garnet on the rim. Lively aromatic nose of dark cherries, polished wood, leather, hickory and lifted spice; slightly volatile. Medium bodied, dry and savoury, sour cherry fruit up front intermingled with game and old wood. Vibrant acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5+/20

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