8 April 2012

HOCHKIRCH - BIODYNAMIC PINOT NOIR THAT ROCKS

Located in cool in the cool Henty region in Victoria's south-west, Hochkirch is one of a relatively small number of Australian producers operating as 100% biodynamic.  Its distinctive and slightly quirky label carries the Demeter insignia as proof of the fact.

Produced from low yielding closely planted vines, the Hochkirch Steinbruch Pinot Noir, one of two Pinot Noirs in the Hochkirch line-up, is built in a rich mould. Stylistically, it is a flamboyant and full bodied expression of Pinot Noir that bears little comparison with red Burgundy. However, that is not a criticism, just a comment on style.

There is plenty of pleasure to be had with this Pinot Noir. It delivers a complex and very attractive nose that combines high quality fruit with floral and spice-driven aromatics. While the palate is rich and full bodied, it does not flirt with heaviness, nor does it place extraction above varietal character. It clearly draws on high quality raw materials, hand nurtured and treated with the utmost of respect.

Hochkirck Steinbruch Pinot Noir may not be a would be Vosne-Romanée or Volnay. It is, however, an excellent and thoroughly enjoyable example of cool climate Victorian Pinot Noir, the sort of wine guaranteed to put smiles on many faces. At the price, it represents outstanding value for money.

2008 STEINBRUCH PINOT NOIR
Producer: Hochkirch
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Henty, Victoria
ABV: 14.2%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.99
Date tasted: 7 April 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red, fading slightly at the rim. Alluring multi-faceted nose of plums, damsons, black cherries, lilac, violet and nutmeg. At the fuller end of medium bodied, the palate is fleshy, supple and seamless. Although there is plenty of up-front plum and cherry fruit, which carry the wine, the over-riding impression is savoury, lifted by star anise, liquorice and spice.
Score: 17+/20

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