Michel Rolland is arguably the highest profile of Bordeaux wine consultants, working with customers world-wide. Rolland has built (deservedly or otherwise) a reputation for a style that is slick, round, oak forward and often Merlot heavy. He has his detractors, but no one can deny his influence in Bordeaux and beyond.
With this in mind, it seemed an appropriate time to check in on the 2009 vintage release from Rolland’s family estate in Fronsac, Chateau Fontenil. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the maker’s signature writ large on the front label, it screams ‘classic Rolland’. Cynics would not be impressed!
To the eye, the wine shows relatively little evolution, reflected on the palate, which has oak (high quality and well judged and fruit) in the driver’s seat. Notwithstanding the warm 2009 vintage, it is compact and elegant, avoiding the excesses that mark so many modern Right Bank Bordeaux wines.
At this point in its evolution, it’s not that complex. However, a lick of powdery tannin on the finish suggests that there is upside for the short to medium term.
2009 CHATEAU FONTENIL
Producer: Chateau Fontenil
Variety: Merlot (90%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%)
Region: Bordeaux, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 5 May 2018
Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Primary nose of blood plum, cassis, oak char and subtle vanilla. Medium bodied, elegant and fine. Compact, gentle dark plum and black cherry, veneer of smoky oak. Quite simple at this point in its development. Gentle powdery tannin on the finish suggests upside over the medium term.
Score: 16/20
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