Wendouree needs no introduction to followers of Australian wine. Simply put, it is a ‘one of a kind’, producing long-lived, savoury wines that have their own distinctive identity. As many notes on these pages demonstrated, aged Wendouree can be something special – refined yet rustic, delicate yet enormously powerful, savoury and intellectual.
This bottle of Wendouree Cabernet Malbec was broached with great anticipation, but didn’t quite deliver. Aromatically, it was rather reticent, gentle notes of gravel, charcoal and graphite. By Wendouree standards, the palate was slightly sweet-fruited, perhaps a marker of the 1998 vintage.
The tannins of youth have melted back, but we are yet to see secondary evolution of note. One suspects a few more years in the cellar might be needed. Experience suggests that Wendouree wines reveal their greatest pleasure when at or near full maturity.
1998 WENDOUREE CABERNET MALBECProducer: Wendouree
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 6 May 2018
Tasting Note:
Deep crimson through to the rim. Restrained nose of charcoal, wet earth, woodsmoke and black fruits. Medium bodied, surprisingly sweet-fruited up-front (by Wendouree standards), tannins have melted away. Dark fruits, graphite and charcoal. Little secondary evolution thus far. Revisit in a few years.
Score: 16/20
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