18 January 2015

2011 SAN ESTEBAN ‘LA PERRA GORDA’ - GIVIN' THE DOG A BONE!

Of all of Spain’s region’s, none is more ‘of the moment’ than the north-west. Ribera Sacra, Valdeorras and Bierzo have emerged on the global wine scene in the past 5-10 years and now occupy prized places on restaurant wine lists and merchant’s shelves.

Spain’s north-west enjoys a maritime climate verging to continental as one moves further inland. Rainfall is relatively high. In terms of grape varieties, Godello and Albarino dominate for white and Mencia for red.

Mencia is sometimes compared to Cabernet Franc; both share a relatively deep colour and lifted pencil shaving aromatics. This particular example is a modest Vina de la Tierra (table wine) and therefore carries no vintage designation on the label. Stylistically, it sits at the modern end of the spectrum, with no lack of extract.

It is a wine that desperately needs food, marked sandy tannins making it a rather edgy wine to drink on its own. With grilled lamb cutlets, it would come into its own. Although not particularly complex, there is plenty to enjoy here. ‘La Perra Gorda’ is a welcome diversion from the well trodden road of Rioja and Ribera del Duero.

2011 SAN ESTEBAN ‘LA PERRA GORDA’
Producer: Altos de San Esteban
Variety: Mencia
Vintage: N/a
Region: Castilla y León, Spain
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Synthetic cork
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 16 January 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Open nose of blackberry/cherry coulis, stewed plums, graphite, charcoal, wet earth. Medium bodied, intensely flavoured (no lack of extract), sour dark berry fruit. Quite direct and simple. Sandy tannins carry the finish. Needs food, ideally fatty protein such as lamb.
Score: 15.5/20

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