Nebbiolo is justifiably seen as one of the wine world’s great grape varieties. At its best it is capable of producing wines with ethereal aromatics, rich texture, restrained power and proven ageing ability.
As we know, the very best examples of Nebbiolo from the best sites in Barolo and Barbaresco, do not come cheaply. One alternative is to seek out better value appellations such as Roero, Nebbiolo Langhe, Valtellina and Gattinara.
Being based in the north of Piedmont, Gattinara tends to produce slightly lighter wines than is the case in Barolo and Barbaresco. While Barolo from great vintages can weigh in at up to 15% ABV, this Gattinara from traditional producer Vallana is a mere 12.5%.
This is a very appealing and slightly rustic example of Nebbiolo that gives no ground to modernity. It is aromatically alluring; at one earthy and slightly floral, red fruits lending a touch of lift. On the palate, it is dry and savoury, gravelly tannins making their presence felt on the finish. While it may lack a touch in pure class, it is unquestionably authentic, true to its origin and brilliant with food.
2004 VALLANA GATTINARA
Producer: Cantine Vallana
Variety: Nebbiolo
Vintage: 2004
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Alcohol: 12/5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $65.00
Date tasted: 24 December 2014
Tasting Note:
Mid-garnet verging to orange/amber on the rim. Evolved nose of forest floor, tilled earth, truffle, touch of cherry. Dry, medium bodied, very savoury in character, meaty/gamey, touch of spice. Finishes dry with slightly rustic gravelly tannins.
Score: 17/20
As we know, the very best examples of Nebbiolo from the best sites in Barolo and Barbaresco, do not come cheaply. One alternative is to seek out better value appellations such as Roero, Nebbiolo Langhe, Valtellina and Gattinara.
Being based in the north of Piedmont, Gattinara tends to produce slightly lighter wines than is the case in Barolo and Barbaresco. While Barolo from great vintages can weigh in at up to 15% ABV, this Gattinara from traditional producer Vallana is a mere 12.5%.
This is a very appealing and slightly rustic example of Nebbiolo that gives no ground to modernity. It is aromatically alluring; at one earthy and slightly floral, red fruits lending a touch of lift. On the palate, it is dry and savoury, gravelly tannins making their presence felt on the finish. While it may lack a touch in pure class, it is unquestionably authentic, true to its origin and brilliant with food.
2004 VALLANA GATTINARAProducer: Cantine Vallana
Variety: Nebbiolo
Vintage: 2004
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Alcohol: 12/5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $65.00
Date tasted: 24 December 2014
Tasting Note:
Mid-garnet verging to orange/amber on the rim. Evolved nose of forest floor, tilled earth, truffle, touch of cherry. Dry, medium bodied, very savoury in character, meaty/gamey, touch of spice. Finishes dry with slightly rustic gravelly tannins.
Score: 17/20
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