2009 VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 'LA BINE' - BITTERSWEET SYMPHONY

Valpolicella is one of the world’s most distinctive wines, whether made as an easy drinking Valpolicella Classico, re-fermented over the lees as a Valpolicella Ripasso, an Amarone della Valpolicella, made from raisined grapes, or a sweet Recioto della Valpolicella, produced in much the same way as an Amarone, but not fermented to dryness.

The wines very much suit the food enjoyed in the Veneto region, especially in and around the city of Verona, the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo & Juliet. A ragout of horsemeat, braised in the local red wine accompanied by polenta and served with a glass of strong Amarone della Valpolicella enjoyed in a Veronese enoteca, sits in the mind a decade on. It is hard to imagine a better food and wine match.

This example, a Ripasso from Giuseppe Campagnola, is true to its origin and style. Medium in body, it delivers straightforward black cherry and damson fruit, with just a touch of bitterness. It is an ideal wine to enjoy with a Risotto with Radicchio, Red Wine and Pancetta, the wine providing a perfect counterpoint to the slightly bitter radicchio. While there are more interesting and expressive versions of the Ripasso style to be found, this is a good honest example that delivers on authenticity.

2009 VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE ‘LA BINE’
Producer: Giuseppe Campagnola
Variety: Corvina et al
Vintage: 2009
Region: Veneto, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 7 November 2010

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Direct nose of black cherry, damson and animal fur. Dry, savoury, medium bodied, quite straightforward and uncomplicated; black cherry, plum skins. Good length. Not an exceptional wine by any means, but food friendly, true to type and enjoyable.
Score: 15/20