The Brunier family are major players in the southern Rhône, not just for the much loved Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but for the many other wines fashioned in the region’s various appellations.
As a vintage, 2006 suffers somewhat from being straddled between the excellent 2005 and 2007 vintages in the southern Rhône (though time will only tell how well these vintages, particularly 2007, have performed). On this evidence, there is reason to suggest that 2006 was a pretty successful year chez Brunier.
The 2006 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge is a wine that changed dramatically in nature over the course of a bottle. From the off, the nose was attractive and complex. However, the palate was initially Grenache-driven, pleasant sweet kirsch/raspberry, but not particularly memorable. Over course of a couple of hours, meaty, gamey and savoury characters came to the fore, and a strong tannic backbone emerged.
Based on this bottle, this wine will need at least another 3 years in bottle for the tannins to retreat and for the wine to integrate further. The component parts are there for what should be a very good, if not necessarily exceptional Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It should drink well from 3-4 years hence and hold for at least 5 or so years thereafter.
Producer: Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2006
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 17 November 2010
Tasting Note:
Mid-garnet, fading slightly at the rim. Dark cherry/kirsch, damson, game/hung meat, charcuterie, white pepper, menthol, rosemary. Dry, at the fuller end of medium bodied, initially dominated by sweet Grenache fruit, but transforms with air to reveal more meaty and gamey characters. The tannins also emerge with air, providing substantial grip. At present the wine is slightly disjointed, clearly needing at least another 3-4 years bottle age for the tannins to soften and the component parts to come together. Shows promise for a vintage that was wedged between 2005 and 2007.
Score: 16.5++/20
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