5 July 2012

PARINGA ESTATE CHARDONNAY - THE NOTORIOUS B.I.G.

Some may characterise Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay as being restrained, light on its heels and quite taut. While this may be the case for a good number of Mornington Chardonnays, wines that reflect the ‘New Wave’ of Australian Chardonnay, there is the odd example that is most definitely ‘Old School’.

Paringa Estate’s Chardonnay most definitely leans toward ‘Old School’.  It is a richly worked, creamy Chardonnay, certainly not ‘New Wave’ wannabe Chablis. Grown at elevation in Red Hill South, it is winemaker influence that speaks here, in the form of bold nutty oak, butterscotch and rich, creamy malo-induced mouthfeel.

This is a full throttle, in your face Chardonnay that feels just a tad old fashioned. While its component parts are undoubtedly of good to very good quality, one feels that a touch more restraint, particularly a gentler hand in the barrel ferment and malolactic fermentation department, would have produced a more structured and better balanced wine. That said, there are some out there who like this style, and the wine probably fills an important niche for such drinkers.

For this particular taster, the wine was just a bit too much of everything and lacking sufficient acidity to hold things in check. Moreover, at 14.5%, the alcohol is high, and feels so. Given the right food context, the wine might just work, but one glass would be enough.

2008 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Paringa Estate
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2008
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 24 June 2012

Tasting Note:
Lemon yellow. Bold nose of grilled hazelnuts, lemon zest, butterscotch. Full bodied, big and buttery, full throttle nutty, creamy, buttery, a touch of lemony acidity just about managing to hold things together. Rich, heavy and worked, ust avoids being oily. Finishes with medium length, the alcohol just a little bit intrusive.
Score: 14/20

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