5 July 2012

MERRICKS ESTATE CHARDONNAY - LOVE IT OR LOATHE IT

Established in 1982, Merricks Estate was a relatively early starter on Mornington Peninsula. The property produces four wines; Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. There is also a second label, Thompson’s Lane, for more modestly priced wines.

There’s been rather a glut of Chardonnay on the Penguin’s Palate of late, and here’s another. It is a Chardonnay that will divide opinion. The nose demonstrates up-front barrel ferment characters including roasted cashew and vanilla. The palate too, is suggestive of quite a worked wine, slightly creamy in texture, nutty oak intermingled with stonefruit and fig. Yet, unlike one or two burlier Chardonnays reviewed on these pages recently, all is held in check thanks to well judged citrussy acidity. Moreover, there is a good amount of complexity here, aromatically and on the palate.

Some may find this wine just a touch extrovert, favouring racier expressions of Chardonnay. Yet, even they would have to concede that this is a well made Chardonnay, one that showcases good quality fruit from mature vines, and considerable winemaking nous. While this may be a ‘love it or loathe it’ Chardonnay, one cannot deny that it is a good wine.

2008 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Merricks Estate
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2008
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $28.00
Date tasted: 30 June 2012

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow with golden glints. Bold nose of nectarine, Nashi pear, roasted cashew nuts, fig, honey, vanilla. There’s plenty of barrel ferment derived complexity on show here. The palate is at the fuller end of medium bodied, quite creamy and rich, but held in check by lifted citrussy acidity. There’s a lovely interplay of stonefruit, nutty oak and citrus. Although quite a heavily worked Chardonnay that is slightly ‘Old School’, there’s plenty of complexity here. This is a wine that would divide opinion; would be loved by drinkers of rich, buttery Chardonnay, but detested by those who like their wines taut and wiry.
Score: 16.5/20

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