12 March 2012

THICK AS THIEVES - ANOTHER BLOODY CHARDONNAY

Thick as Thieves is a one-man show based in the Yarra Valley, making a several small volume wines from selected parcels of fruit. At present, the range comprises a Sylvaner, Sauvignon Blanc, Arneis, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir Rosé, Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo.

The common thread here 'minimal intervention', a philosophy that is very much in vogue.  The grapes are picked at relatively low potential alcohol and fermentation favours wild yeasts. With the likes of the Chardonnay, oak is used but only a relatively small percentage is new. Similarly, a mere 20% of the must undergoes malolactic fermentation.

This is the style of Chardonnay that many producers have gravitated toward over the past 5-10 years. In contrast to the ‘big and buttery’ wines of the 1990’s, quality winemakers have adopted a ‘less is more’ approach, producing Chardonnays that are leaner, backward and steelier in style. Although time will only tell how these wines develop, there is no doubt that wines such as this will win many back to the Chardonnay grape.

The 2010 Thick as Thieves ‘Another Bloody Chardonnay’ is a wine that showcases high quality Yarra Valley fruit to the fore. All of the elements; acidity, fruit, alcohol and oak are in excellent balance. Indeed, while (by contemporary standards) the alcohol is relatively low, the wine isn’t too light on its feet. Partial malolactic fermentation has lent a slightly chalky, gently creamy texture to the wine, which possesses pristine honeydew, lemon and green apple fruit.

Although drinking well now, this is a wine that should develop well in bottle for at least 5 years, probably longer, though a lack of cellaring history makes it difficult to chart its course. There's some very good Chardonnay being made in Australia these days, and Thick as Thieves is one of them.

2010 'ANOTHER BLOODY CHARDONNAY'
Producer: Thick as Thieves
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 12.2%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $29.99
Date tasted: 8 March 2012

Tasting Note:

Pale greenish yellow. Focused nose of lemon zest, honeydew melon and green apples, all of which are reflected on the palate. Medium bodied, elegant and fine, savoury, slightly creamy in texture but not rich or ‘buttery’ by any means. Glides across the palate. Finishes long and dry. There’s plenty of upside here.
Score: 16.5+/20

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