20 March 2012

OLD SCHOOL CHARDONNAY - WORTH A PUNT?

The Napoleone family, owners of Punt Road winery, draw on a rich family history in fruit growing, particularly apples, in the Yarra Valley. After acting as a contract grape grower for a number of years, the family decided to build their own winery in the later 1990’s. Punt Road is now a well established Yarra Valley label, making not just wine, but also cider.

In an era of steely and reserved Australian Chardonnays that downplay winemaker trickery, the 2010 Punt Road Chardonnay comes across as a bit old-fashioned. It is a worked Chardonnay that has undergone a high percentage of malolactic fermentation and seen a decent amount of new oak. Creamily textured, it is a drink now Chardonnay that could do with just a little more bright malic acid to lend freshness. It is a reasonably well balanced Chardonnay, but comes across as just bit clumsy.

Lovers of ‘old school’ Australian Chardonnay may well find favour with this particular example of the grape, but for this punter, there are many better wines out there.

2010 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Punt Road
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $25.00
Date tasted: 16 March 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow. Bright nose of custard apple, pear and white peach overlaid by spicy oak. Medium bodied, creamy in texture, spicy oak (clove, cinnamon), white peach, pear and red apples. Finishes slightly short.  This is a wine that is driven by winemaker-derived influences, a trait that may divide consumers.
Score: 15/20

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