OLD SCHOOL CHARDONNAY - WORTH A PUNT?

The Napoleone family, owners of Punt Road winery, draw on a rich family history in fruit growing, particularly apples, in the Yarra Valley. After acting as a contract grape grower for a number of years, the family decided to build their own winery in the later 1990’s. Punt Road is now a well established Yarra Valley label, making not just wine, but also cider.

In an era of steely and reserved Australian Chardonnays that downplay winemaker trickery, the 2010 Punt Road Chardonnay comes across as a bit old-fashioned. It is a worked Chardonnay that has undergone a high percentage of malolactic fermentation and seen a decent amount of new oak. Creamily textured, it is a drink now Chardonnay that could do with just a little more bright malic acid to lend freshness. It is a reasonably well balanced Chardonnay, but comes across as just bit clumsy.

Lovers of ‘old school’ Australian Chardonnay may well find favour with this particular example of the grape, but for this punter, there are many better wines out there.

2010 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Punt Road
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $25.00
Date tasted: 16 March 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow. Bright nose of custard apple, pear and white peach overlaid by spicy oak. Medium bodied, creamy in texture, spicy oak (clove, cinnamon), white peach, pear and red apples. Finishes slightly short.  This is a wine that is driven by winemaker-derived influences, a trait that may divide consumers.
Score: 15/20

VIETTI NEBBIOLO PERBACCO - TEXTBOOK STUFF!

Vietti is a leading Piemonte producer with an extensive portfolio including a Roero Arneis, Moscato d’Asti, Dolcetto d’Alba, Barberas from both Alba and Asti, a Barbaresco and several single vineyard Baroli.

Nebbiolo Perbacco is a multi-site blend that draws on fruit from several of the Vietti vineyards. Average age of the vines is 35 years. The fruit undergoes partial ageing in barriques, prior to being transferred to Slavonian oak casks for 16 months.

The resulting wine, although not possessing the depth of a single site Barolo, embodies the soul of the Nebbiolo grape, with distinctive a distinctive floral bouquet, overlaid with liquorice and bitumen/tar. ‘Tar and roses’ is a term deployed all too liberally with the Nebbiolo grape; in this instance, it is bang on the money.

What sets this apart from more ambitious wines in the Vietti portfolio is its propensity for early drinking. While the nose is unmistakably Nebbiolo, the palate is relatively gentle, without the hallmark structured tannins that can make the great Nebbiolo-based wines of Piemonte unapproachable in their youth. Nebbiolo Perbacco is a wine to be enjoyed in its flush of youth, while its brooding bigger brothers are resting in the cellar.

2006 NEBBIOLO PERBACCO
Producer: Vietti
Variety: Nebbiolo
Vintage: 2006
Region: Piemonte, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $45.00
Date tasted: 11 December 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red, fading slowly toward the rim. Complex nose of liquorice, plum, damson, black cherries and freshly laid bitumen, floral notes. Dry, initially feels quite weighty and glycerolic, but settles down in the glass to reveal bright plum/cherry fruit intermingled with liquorice, tar and roasted spices.
Score: 16.5/20

2004 CHATEAU BATAILLEY – CLASSIC LEFT BANK BORDEAUX

Pauillac 5th growth Château Batailley is recognised as one of the most consistent and better value classed growths of the Médoc. It’s wines are cast in a classical mould, displaying elegant blackcurrant fruit intermingled with judicious oak.

Although not one of the stand-out vintages of the noughties, 2004 was arguably the last truly ‘good value’ vintage in Bordeaux in so far as the big name chateaux are concerned. There is, of course, great value to be had among the many Crus Bourgeois and satellite appellations.

This bottle was the first of a case bought en-primeur for a relatively modest outlay of £165 in-bond. The same wine is currently selling for around £290 in-bond through brokerage houses in the UK (though to be fair, it is a drinker’s, not an investor’s wine).

The wine very much reflects the house style and vintage – this is an archetypal, classically proportioned Médoc. It is not rich, exotic, opulent or multi-layered in any sense of the word, but a classically defined wine that reflects its gravelly terroir; dry blackcurrant fruit interwoven with graphite/pencil shavings and a hint of resin. It isn’t the most exciting wine on the planet, but it drinks very well alongside a piece of red meat, and should develop more complexity over the next five or so years.

2004 CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY
Producer: Château Batailley
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2004
Region: Pauillac - Bordeaux, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 11 December 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red, fading slowly toward the rim. Attractive nose of blackcurrant, plum, pencil shavings and charcoal, resinous notes. Dry , medium bodied, savoury blackcurrant fruit, slightly gravely texture. Tannins, though present, are fine grained. Overall, the wine is well balanced, and finishes reasonably long.
Score: 16/20

MORE BIODYNAMIC MUSCADET

This is the second wine from biodynamic producer Domaine de l’Ecu that has been reviewed on these pages. This time, we’re looking at one of the domaine’s single terroir wines, ‘Expression de Granite’ (two other terroir specific wines are bottled).

There’s greater depth and breadth here than the ‘Cuvée Classique’, and a steely tension that makes it a compelling wine. This is Muscadet taken to another level. However, so good is the ‘Cuvée Classique’ that one can not rate this bottling that much higher than the less expensive wine.

Drunk on a Sunday afternoon, 2009 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine ‘Expression de Granite’ was a perfect foil for mouclade, a dish of mussels served in a creamy curry flavoured sauce, originating from La Rochelle. While freshly shucked oysters are the traditional match for Muscadet, this is a wine that can sit comfortably with any shellfish based dish.

2009 MUSCADET DE SÈVRE ET MAINE ‘EXPRESSION DE GRANITE’
Producer: Domaine de l’Ecu
Variety: Melon de Bourgogne
Vintage: 2009
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $42.99
Date tasted: 11 December 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery yellow with green tinges. Steely nose with suggestions of mica, wet stones, freshly squeezed lemons, greengage, ozone. Dry, at the lighter end of medium bodied. There’s a steely tension here, but the acidity doesn’t dominate; lemon zest, a saline note and stony minerality. Finishes long.
Score: 17.5+/20

DESERT ISLAND SHERRY – ARGÜESO MANZANILLA RESERVA DE LA FAMILIA

Having already road-tested the standard Manzanilla from Heredos de Argueso, it seemed about time to try out the flagship Reserva de la Familia. Adorned by a serious looking black label, the wine displayed the typical salty bite that one expects from a good Manzanila, together with the hallmark yeasty sourdough character from extended ageing under flor.

While the standard bottling possesses greater intensity and a punchier salty tang than many Manzanilla’s on the market, Reserva de la Familia takes things up a notch in terms of refinement and depth of flavour. This is a benchmark Manzanilla that captures the essence of Sanlucar de Barrameda in a bottle. It is bettered only by the outstanding wines bottled by Equipo Navazos.

NV MANZANILLA RESERVA DE LA FAMILIA
Producer: Herederos de Argüeso
Variety: Fortified wine - Sherry
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Andalucia, Spain
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 375ml
Retail price: $24.99
Date tasted: 11 December 2011

Tasting Note:
Very pale silvery yellow. Salty, sea spray, ozone and sourdough on the nose. The palate shows excellent depth, with notes of freshly baked sourdough bread, a distinct salty edge. Refined, rounded and elegant, with real depth and substance. Resounds on the palate.
Score: 18/20

WIGAN - EDEN VALLEY RIESLING FROM THE DOYEN OF THE BAROSSA

No introduction is needed to Peter Lehmann, one of Australia’s most successful medium (to large) wineries. Wigan Riesling, named in honour of long serving winemaker Andrew Wigan, is the company’s flagship Riesling. The 2005 is a much decorated wine, garnering several trophies and numerous gold medals. Of course, such awards mean little if the wine doesn’t deliver in bottle.

If there ever was a classic maturing Australian Riesling nose, we have it here; kerosene overlaying lime and honey. Texturally, the wine is relatively delicate, but has developed palate weight with time in bottle. There’s plenty of depth and substance here, as well as further cellaring potential. It makes an interesting contrast to the bolder and fuller bodied Rieslings from the Clare Valley.  Moreover, it demonstrates the value of ageing Riesling.

2005 ‘WIGAN’ RIESLING
Producer: Peter Lehmann
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2005
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $28.00
Date tasted: 10 March 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow with greenish tinges. Delicate nose of lemon/lime sherbet and green apples. A touch of kerosene suggests evolution. Dry, medium bodied, there’s a bit of palate weight here, from development in bottle. Although very much a work in progress in terms of the wine’s evolutionary path, there’s real quality here.
Score: 17/20

2001 CHATEAU DE ST COSME GIGONDAS - ON TARGET

Château de St Cosme is a leading Rhône Valley producer. With its base in the appellation of Gigondas, St Cosme produces wines from both the southern and northern Rhône at all levels of the appellation ladder, acting as both a grower and negociant.

The real interest here is Gigondas, all made from low yielding estate-grown fruit sourced from 60 year old vines. These days, St Cosme produces five different Gigondas, including three wines that are produced from specific terroirs, as well as Valbelle. As such, Gigondas ‘classique’ is the entry level cuvée, but it holds up very well. Unlike the single terroir wines, it sees no new wood, and is aged in a combination of seasoned oak casks and concrete vats.

A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault, the 2001 St Cosme Gigondas delivers an alluring aromatic bouquet of lavender and violets, intermingled with a savoury meaty character and lifted spice. Although the wines of the southern Rhone can sometimes be badged as robust and even rustic, this mature Gigondas is wonderfully refined and elegant. At 10 years of age, it is drinking at its peak; it is an entirely convincing example of authentic Gigondas, an appellation which at its best can match Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

2001 GIGONDAS
Producer: Château de St Cosme
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2001
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 10 March 2012

Tasting Note:
Medium garnet, fading toward the rim. Lovely aromatic bouquet, slightly floral (lavender, violet), strawberries, balsamic, meaty, star anise. Dry, medium bodied, drinking at its peak, tannins are fully resolved. Notwithstanding its origin, this is an elegant and stylish wine that displays the floral aspects of mature Grenache together with the meaty and gamey quality of Syrah. Lovely.
Score: 17/20

THICK AS THIEVES - ANOTHER BLOODY CHARDONNAY

Thick as Thieves is a one-man show based in the Yarra Valley, making a several small volume wines from selected parcels of fruit. At present, the range comprises a Sylvaner, Sauvignon Blanc, Arneis, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir Rosé, Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo.

The common thread here 'minimal intervention', a philosophy that is very much in vogue.  The grapes are picked at relatively low potential alcohol and fermentation favours wild yeasts. With the likes of the Chardonnay, oak is used but only a relatively small percentage is new. Similarly, a mere 20% of the must undergoes malolactic fermentation.

This is the style of Chardonnay that many producers have gravitated toward over the past 5-10 years. In contrast to the ‘big and buttery’ wines of the 1990’s, quality winemakers have adopted a ‘less is more’ approach, producing Chardonnays that are leaner, backward and steelier in style. Although time will only tell how these wines develop, there is no doubt that wines such as this will win many back to the Chardonnay grape.

The 2010 Thick as Thieves ‘Another Bloody Chardonnay’ is a wine that showcases high quality Yarra Valley fruit to the fore. All of the elements; acidity, fruit, alcohol and oak are in excellent balance. Indeed, while (by contemporary standards) the alcohol is relatively low, the wine isn’t too light on its feet. Partial malolactic fermentation has lent a slightly chalky, gently creamy texture to the wine, which possesses pristine honeydew, lemon and green apple fruit.

Although drinking well now, this is a wine that should develop well in bottle for at least 5 years, probably longer, though a lack of cellaring history makes it difficult to chart its course. There's some very good Chardonnay being made in Australia these days, and Thick as Thieves is one of them.

2010 'ANOTHER BLOODY CHARDONNAY'
Producer: Thick as Thieves
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 12.2%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $29.99
Date tasted: 8 March 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Focused nose of lemon zest, honeydew melon and green apples, all of which are reflected on the palate. Medium bodied, elegant and fine, savoury, slightly creamy in texture but not rich or ‘buttery’ by any means. Glides across the palate. Finishes long and dry. There’s plenty of upside here.
Score: 16.5+/20

2011 SOUMAH SAVARRO - SWEET HOME SAVARRO

Savarro is one of several names for Savagnin, the grape grown in cool alpine regions of France (Jura) and Switzerland, where it is known variously as Heida and Paien. Relatively few of the wines from this part of the world tend to travel greatly, mostly being consumed by locals and visitors during the skiing season.

Many will know that what we here in Australia thought to be the Spanish/Portuguese white varietal Albariño/Alvarinho actually turned out to be Savagnin. Rather than bottling the rather sexy and seafood friendly Iberian grape, producers are now stuck with the less familiar Savagnin.

Boutique Yarra Valley producer Soumah makes just 360 cases of their Savarro, a wine that has garnered awards including Best Victorian Aromatic Unwooded White at the Federation Square Wine Awards.

There’s no doubting that this wine is well made. It possesses good fruit intensity, reflected in the apple orchard and citrus-laden aromatic bouquet. There’s good depth on the palate as well. However, there’s only moderate complexity and interest here; yes, it’s a pleasant, fresh aromatic white wine, but one with limitations.

Those looking for a slightly different white that drinks well on its own or perhaps with a light antipasto platter might well be tempted to give Soumah’s Savarro a try.

2011 SAVARRO
Producer: Soumah
Variety: Savagnin
Vintage: 2011
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $27.00
Date tasted: 4 March 2012

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow. Clean aromatic nose of pears, green apples, hints of lemon citrus, all of which are reflected on the palate which is lively and vibrant. There is good intensity of fruit here, but the wine lacks for complexity and interest. It is a decent aperitif or quaffer, but nothing more.
Score: 15/20

BEST IN SHOW - TATACHILLA CLARENDON VINEYARD MERLOT

Finding good Australian Merlot is rather like trying to find the proverbial ‘needle in a haystack’. Away from its natural home of the clay rich soils of Pomerol and St Emilion, Merlot can be rather bland, lacking depth and structure.

The 1997 release Tatachilla’s Clarendon Vineyard Merlot, grown in the hills above McLaren Vale, was released to much acclaim on the show circuit. It garnered several trophies, and was awarded Best Red Wine of the Competition at the 1999 Sydney International Wine Competition. One should add that the wines are tasted with food at this competition, which no doubt affects how they are judged.

Now nearing maturity, it appears that the judges may have made a good call over a decade ago. This is a Merlot of quality, with genuine depth and no small amount of interest. Clearly, it has seen quite a lot of oak, all French and probably fairly high toast, but that is part of the style; in this instance, it works. This is an unashamedly modern, flamboyantly styled Merlot, and a good example of its type.

1997 CLARENDON VINEYARD MERLOT
Producer: Tatachilla
Variety: Merlot
Vintage: 1997
Region: McLaren Vale, South Australia
ABV: 14%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 4 March 2012

Tasting Note:
Plum red fading slightly at the rim. Bold nose of charcoal, liquorice, blackberry, plum and tar. Full bodied, voluptuous and supple palate, tannins are fully resolved, primary fruit (plum, briar) is still hanging on, though there’s a touch of secondary complexity and oak derived notes.
Score: 17/20

TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

Wild Rock is a sizeable producer with wines from fruit originating from Hawke’s Bay (Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot Malbec), Martinborough (Pinot Noir), Marlborough (Sauvignon Blanc) and Central Otago (Rosé, Pinot Noir). It is a label that has been guided by the experienced hands of Steve Smith MW, perhaps best known for his role in Craggy Range.

Gravel Pit Red, a Merlot-Malbec blend with a salt and pepper seasoning of the two Cabernets, is made from Hawke’s Bay fruit. It is a wine that boasts a good show record in New Zealand. The nose certainly lives up to the reputation, delivering a complex array of berry fruit characters intermingled with liquorice and violets. Although the palate doesn’t live up to the initial promise of the bouquet, it is a well made, clean as a whistle wine that would deliver pleasure for many drinkers.

Although pitched at a slightly more modest level than the Craggy Range wines, it does share (to this drinker) with its sister label the attribute of being well made, yet not fully satisfying, and certainly not sufficiently compelling to want to buy a second bottle.

2009 GRAVEL PIT RED
Producer: Wild Rock
Variety: Merlot, Malbec
Vintage: 2009
Region: Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $25.00
Date tasted: 1 March 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep plum red fading slightly at the rim. Lively and reasonably complex nose of damson, blackberry, dark plums and liquorice, fruit pastilles, slightly floral edge. The promise on the nose doesn’t quite flow through to the palate, which is medium bodied and fruit driven with soft supple tannins, but finishes a touch short. There’s a pleasant balance of sweet and sour, but not enough depth to merit a higher rating.
Score: 15/20

YARRA YARRA SYRAH – ST JOSEPH MEETS STEELS CREEK

In its relatively short life, these pages have featured several wines from premium Yarra Valley producer, Yarra Yarra, none more enchanting than the superb 1999 Yarra Yarra Syrah.

Twelve years on from vintage, the 1999 Yarra Yarra Syrah is drinking at the peak of its power. Bricking at the rim, it has thrown a sizeable deposit. While many Australian cool climate Syrah/Shiraz claim to be Northern Rhône inspired, there can be few that capture the essence of the Rhône Syrah as well as this particular wine – freshly ground pepper, hung meat and charcuterie – it’s there in spades.

The McLean family were dealt a nasty hand from the 2009 bushfires, which destroyed over a hectare of vines, the winery itself and their entire museum stock, as well as a personal collection of fine European wines. With typical resilience, they have bounced back; recent releases maintain the high standard set over the past couple of decades.

1999 SYRAH
Producer: Yarra Yarra Vineyard
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 1999
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 March 2012

Tasting Note:
Medium garnet, starting to brown at the rim. Prototypical Northern Rhône Syrah nose of freshly ground pepper, charcuterie and game, bacon fat, all of which are reflected on the palate. Just medium in body, silky in texture and savoury, this is an outstanding example of Rhône-inspired Syrah.
Score: 18.5/20

THE LONG AND NETLEY ROAD

Frankland Estate has a close affinity with the Riesling grape thanks in no small part to its sponsorship of the Frankland Estate International Riesling Tasting, which showcases Riesling from around the world.

The estate itself produces five different Rieslings, three of which are single vineyard wines; Isolation Ridge, Poison Hill and Netley Road. Planted in 1966, Netley Road is one of the oldest Riesling vineyards in Great Southern. The vines are grown over an ironstone ridge that runs north to south, with an easterly aspect.

The 2011 incarnation of Netley Road is just a baby, near water white in colour, with an attractive aromatic bouquet of apples, pears and white flowers. Although young, it doesn’t possess the austerity of some Clare Valley Rieslings. Yes, it will improve over several years and up to two decades, but it can be enjoyed with some pleasure now.

2011 NETLEY ROAD RIESLING
Producer: Frankland Estate
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Great Southern, Western Australia
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $26.99
Date tasted: 3 March 2012

Tasting Note:
Very pale silvery white. Complex aromatic nose of green apples, pears and white flowers. Starts slightly off-dry with apples and nashi pears, followed by lime citrus. The finish is long and bone dry, carried by passionfruit-like acidity. This is an extremely young wine that holds great promise for the future.
Score: 17+/20

2008 PONDALOWIE MT TEMPRANILLO - MINYA TERRA

Tempranillo, Tinto Fino, Cencibel – whatever you call it, it’s the great grape of Spain, inspiring wine such as Vega Sicilia and Riojas, new wave and old school. Tempranillo is a relatively recent arrival to these shores. Notwithstanding its notional affinity to Australian conditions, it doesn’t seem to have piqued the interest of Australian grapegrowers and winemakers to the same extent as the great Italian varietals Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.

Bendigo’s Pondalowie Vineyards is one producer that has embraced the Tempranillo grape wholeheartedly. It does help somewhat that the man at the helm here, Dominic Morris, is well versed with the grape, having visited and done vintage many times on the Iberian Peninsula (though his work has mostly been in Portugal).

MT (short for minha terra, the Portugues for ‘my place’) is one of three single varietal Tempranillo’s in the Pondalowie range. It doesn’t see any wood, and is therefore a pure expression of the Tempranillo grape. The result is a savoury wine, supple in texture, with fine grape tannins and a gentle ripple of acidity. It is well assembled wine, suited to the food of its country of origin. Gracias Dominic Morris and the team at Pondalowie Vineyards!

2008 MT TEMPRANILLO
Producer: Pondalowie Vineyards
Variety: Tempranillo et al
Vintage: 2008
Region: Bendigo, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.99
Date tasted: 29 February 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright plum red. Slightly reserved nose of plums, cherries and sarsparilla. The palate is silky in texture, very elegant and savoury, soft plum and briar, gentle spice, earthy notes. Although not overly complex, this savoury, food friendly wine captures the essence of the variety.
Score: 16/20

2007 TAHBILK MARSANNE - ON FORM

Yes, another Tahbilk Marsanne, but this time a relatively young one. The 2007 is just a baby, yet to fill out into the honey and acacia accented wine of maturity. It’s quite a delicate creature, marked by greengage and white peach fruit and a fine thread of acidity. Thankfully, there’s enough stuffing here for it to stand up to food, in this case, Spaghetti alla Carbonara, to which it serves as an excellent foil.

While a good wine, and relative bargain in the current Australian wine market (especially when sold at the ridiculous price of $10 per bottle), it is a wine that has more interest to offer in the future.

2007 MARSANNE
Producer: Tahbilk
Variety: Marsanne
Vintage: 2007
Region: Nagambie Lakes, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $10.00
Date tasted: 1 March 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Slightly reticent nose of greengage and white peaches, reflected on the palate, which is just medium bodied. A cut of fine acidity carries the finish. This Tahbilk Marsanne is just starting to fill out, and should show more complexity in 4-5 years.
Score: 16/20

OVER THE MOON WITH 'LA LUNA' PINOT GRIGIO

Call it Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio, this seems to be one variety from that is difficult to coax genuine interest and complexity from. This hasn’t stopped the onward march of Pinot Gris/Grigio; it continues to soar in popularity, only all-dominant Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc curbing its rise.

The question is, can Pinot Gris or Grigio be interesting? Yes, there are perfectly quaffable, pear drop laden examples in abundance, and some of the richer wines, in the Alsatian mode, can offer more than just simple pleasure.

The 2011 ‘La Luna’ Pinot Grigio, made by importer Tim Stock certainly doesn’t lack for ambition. Made from Yarra Valley fruit, fermented with wild yeasts and bottled with minimal sulphites, there is an effort to produce a wine that sticks its head above the parapet. Certainly, there is a level of fruit intensity and a pleasant crunchy texture that places it above the norm. Yet, there is just modest complexity here. Sure, it’s a well made wine, with some interest, but ultimately, it is a Pinot Grigio, a good one yes, but without out the thrill that some other varieties can deliver.

2011 ‘LA LUNA’ PINOT GRIGIO
Producer: Fruits of the Vine
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.00
Date tasted: 26 February 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Straightforward nose of nashi pears and green apples. Medium bodied, good fruit intensity, once again, nashi pears and green apples. Slightly crunchy in texture. Although relatively simple, there’s decent depth of fruit and length on the palate here.
Score: 15.5/20