1998 WENDOUREE CABERNET MALBEC - PATIENCE

Wendouree needs no introduction to followers of Australian wine. Simply put, it is a ‘one of a kind’, producing long-lived, savoury wines that have their own distinctive identity. As many notes on these pages demonstrated, aged Wendouree can be something special – refined yet rustic, delicate yet enormously powerful, savoury and intellectual.

This bottle of Wendouree Cabernet Malbec was broached with great anticipation, but didn’t quite deliver. Aromatically, it was rather reticent, gentle notes of gravel, charcoal and graphite. By Wendouree standards, the palate was slightly sweet-fruited, perhaps a marker of the 1998 vintage.

The tannins of youth have melted back, but we are yet to see secondary evolution of note. One suspects a few more years in the cellar might be needed. Experience suggests that Wendouree wines reveal their greatest pleasure when at or near full maturity.

1998 WENDOUREE CABERNET MALBEC
Producer: Wendouree
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 6 May 2018

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson through to the rim. Restrained nose of charcoal, wet earth, woodsmoke and black fruits. Medium bodied, surprisingly sweet-fruited up-front (by Wendouree standards), tannins have melted away. Dark fruits, graphite and charcoal. Little secondary evolution thus far. Revisit in a few years.
Score: 16/20

2009 CHATEAU FONTENIL - SLICK RICK

Michel Rolland is arguably the highest profile of Bordeaux wine consultants, working with customers world-wide. Rolland has built (deservedly or otherwise) a reputation for a style that is slick, round, oak forward and often Merlot heavy. He has his detractors, but no one can deny his influence in Bordeaux and beyond.

With this in mind, it seemed an appropriate time to check in on the 2009 vintage release from Rolland’s family estate in Fronsac, Chateau Fontenil. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the maker’s signature writ large on the front label, it screams ‘classic Rolland’. Cynics would not be impressed!

To the eye, the wine shows relatively little evolution, reflected on the palate, which has oak (high quality and well judged and fruit) in the driver’s seat. Notwithstanding the warm 2009 vintage, it is compact and elegant, avoiding the excesses that mark so many modern Right Bank Bordeaux wines.

At this point in its evolution, it’s not that complex. However, a lick of powdery tannin on the finish suggests that there is upside for the short to medium term.

2009 CHATEAU FONTENIL
Producer: Chateau Fontenil
Variety: Merlot (90%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%)
Region: Bordeaux, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 5 May 2018

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Primary nose of blood plum, cassis, oak char and subtle vanilla. Medium bodied, elegant and fine. Compact, gentle dark plum and black cherry, veneer of smoky oak. Quite simple at this point in its development. Gentle powdery tannin on the finish suggests upside over the medium term.
Score: 16/20

2016 ARTUKE ‘PIES NEGROS’ RIOJA - MOVE YOUR FEET

‘Pies Negros’ translates from Spanish to English as black feet. It’s an appropriate name for a wine that is glossy crimson in appearance and leaps from the glass with cherry and plum skin. Indeed, it smells a bit like freshly feet trodden fruit.

That said and done, the wine is relatively light on its feet, weighing in at no more than medium bodied. It is a wine that does what it says and taste like what it smells like – up-front dark fruit with a savoury finish. It’s not that complex, but delivers plenty of character and drinking pleasure.

This particular bottle was very similar to a 2014 vintage of the same wine enjoyed a couple of years ago.

2016 ARTUKE ‘PIES NEGROS’ RIOJA
Producer: Bodegas y Vinedos Artuke
Variety: Tempranillo (90%), Graciano (10%)
Region: Rioja, Spain
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 27 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright crimson. Attention grabbing nose of black cherry and plum skin – intense and vibrant at the one time. Medium bodied, flavour-wise the palate follows on from the nose with the same cherry/plum skin quality. Quite simple, but a decent and satisfying drink nevertheless.
Score: 16/20

2017 PARADIGM HILL TRANSITION ROSE - SERIOUS

Rose is arguably the most dynamic category in the Australian wine market at present. It seems that we just can’t get enough of the stuff. Some local vignerons have been rather slow to clock on to the lucrative market for dry rose.

For many years, Paradigm Hill has produced a very sophisticated rose based on estate grown Mornington Peninsula Shiraz. Barrel fermented, including a small percentage of new oak, it is an ambitious wine that is its own animal.

Transition Rose is not a copy of a southern French rose, but a serious, dry table wine that is made for the dinner table. The detailed back label suggests that it could be aged for 10 or more years, though one doubts that many bottles maker it beyond their third or fourth year post vintage before being consumed.

This is a classy rose with its own distinctive personality that proves that better Australian roses can more than hold their own against imports from fashionable Provence and elsewhere in Europe.

2017 PARADIGM HILL TRANSITION ROSE
Producer: Paradigm Hill
Variety: Rose
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 11.7%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $38.00
Date tasted: 28 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale strawberry pink. Attractive nose of delicate macerated red fruits, subtle spice. Medium bodied, light and fresh, zippy citrusy acidity. Although light on its feet it is a wine that doesn’t lack for depth or fruit. Bone dry and savoury – good dinner table wine.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 TERRA COSTANTINO DAETNA ETNA ROSSO - EARTH, WIND AND.......

As has been alluded previously on these pages, Mount Etna is the hottest piece of viticultural real estate on the planet. This Etna Rosso displays how serious the wines of Etna can be. A typical blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, it is light in its feet, fresh and well poised.

It reminds one of a decent light Nebbiolo, albeit with slightly higher acidity and less pronounced tannins. It made a good match to aubergine and ricotta ravioli served with a tomato and basil sauce. Indeed, it is fair to say that this is a wine that needs to be served alongside food.

2015 TERRA COSTANTINO DAETNA ETNA ROSSO
Producer: Terra Costantino
Variety: Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio
Region: Sicily, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 20 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Tilled earth, truffle and spice. Very dry and savoury, medium bodied, lively acidity. Light on its feet. Needs food. Very earthbound in feel. Will appeal to Nebbiolo lovers.
Score: 16/20

2015 CLYDE PARK CHARDONNAY - BONNIE AND.......

Dollar for dollar Australia is arguably produces the best quality Chardonnay on this planet. Yes, white Burgundy at its best is without peer, but it comes at a considerable expense. There are many exceptional examples of Australian Chardonnay to be found at under $50 per bottle. That’s less than you would pay for an entry level Bourgogne Blanc from a good domaine.

Clyde Park Chardonnay is yet another delicious Australia Chardonnay. The most impressive thing about this wine is the balance of fruit, acidity and oak. It is more heavily worked than some edgy Chardonnays, but is nevertheless fresh and complex.

It is a wine without pretension that simply says ‘Drink me!’ Amen to that.

2015 CLYDE PARK CHARDONNAY
Producer: Clyde Park
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Geelong, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 21 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Attractive nose of green apple, William pear, white nectarine, grilled hazelnuts and subtle, spicy oak. Medium bodied, good fruit concentration. Nice balance of fruit and oak – well judged – a wine that its self assured and confident. Delicious drinking.
Score: 16.5/20

2003 DR LOOSEN GRAACHER HIMMELREICH RIESLING AUSLESE - STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN

Dr Loosen needs no introduction to lovers of Riesling worldwide. Ernst Loosen has worked tirelessly over the past couple of decades to sell the virtues of German Riesling.

From the heatwave 2003 vintage, Loosen’s Graacher Himmelreich Auslese was approached with some trepidation. Reviews of this wine have not been particularly positive. Although not particularly complex, it is far from shot as a 15 year old.

Approaching full maturity, the wine is medium sweet with apple and pear orchard to the fore. It doesn’t boast a huge amount of acidity, but is certainly not flat or flabby. It made a perfectly decent match to roast pork belly.

2003 DR LOOSEN GRAACHER HIMMELREICH RIESLING AUSLESE
Producer: Dr Loosen
Variety: Riesling
Region: Mosel, Germany
ABV: 8.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 21 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Evolved nose of red apples, Beaurre Bosc pear and honey. Medium sweet, round and soft, quite simple and linear, but not without interest. Pear and baked apple with the barest hint of citrus zest. Freshens up with aeration.
Score: 15.5/20

2014 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1ER CRU MONTEE DE TONNERRE - GHOST IN THE SHELL

2014 is widely acknowledged as an exceptional vintage for Chablis, delivering a near perfect balance of pristine fruit and laser-like acidity. It was also a relatively well priced vintage unlike the likes of 2016, which suffered from a very low crop thanks to a disastrous frost.

By the standards of some Chablis producers, Louis Michel is a very modern operation – temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel vats, screw-cap closures – for a region that has suffered its share of issues with premature oxidation, this gives the consumer a degree of confidence.

Four years on from vintage, Michel’s Montee de Tonnerre 2014 is showing fairly well, but not quite delivering the goods as yet, wanting for a touch of complexity. Revisit in a couple of years.

2014 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1ER CRU MONTEE DE TONNERRE
Producer: Louis Michel
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Chablis, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $75.00
Date tasted: 4 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Limpid nose of lemon sherbet and grapefruit pith, touch of apple blossom. Dry, medium bodied, starting to emerge from its shell. Green apple and lemon/grapefruit citrus. Not particularly complex at this juncture.
Score: 16/20

2017 UNICO ZELO SLATE FARM FIANO - LOVE ON THE ROCKS

There is little doubt in this little camper’s mind that Fiano is the best white grape variety grown on the Italian mainland south of Rome. When grown in the chalky hills in Campania, Fiano can display great texture and a wonderful interplay of stonefruit, citrus and saline minerality. It is a definitively Italian variety that is delicious to drink and improved when served alongside appropriate food.

The couple behind Gumeracha-based winery Unico Zelo have made Fiano their signature grape. On this evidence, they are succeeding in their goal. Clare Valley grown Slate Farm Fiano is one of three examples of Fiano in the current line up, the other two originating from the Riverland and Adelaide Hills.

Notwithstanding the modest 11.5% ABV of Slat Farm, it has excellent fruit weight and depth of flavour. From a varietal perspective, it is bang on the money, saline notes lending a sense of authenticity and complexity. This is a delicious wine that holds its own against better examples of Fiano from Campania.

2017 UNICO ZELO SLATE FARM FIANO
Producer: Unico Zelo
Variety: Fiano
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 3 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright straw yellow. Toasted pine nut kernels, slightly oxidative, pink grapefruit, ozone/sea air. Dry, medium bodied, punches well above its 11.5% in terms of palate weight. Hay, toasted grains and stonefruit. Delicious and very true to the variety.
Score: 17+/20

2013 SC PANNELL ADELAIDE HILLS SYRAH - WINNER TAKES IT ALL

Steve Pannell’s CV is an impressive one – son of Bill Panell who founded Moss Wood in Margaret River, former Chief Winemaker for Hardy’s, multiple Jimmy Watson Trophy-winner – the list goes on.

Since establishing his own label, Pannell has focused on varieties that flourish in McLaren Vale’s warm Mediterranean climate. Traditional favourites Shiraz and Grenache have been supplemented by Tempranillo and Touriga Nacional.

Pannell has also extended his reach into the Adelaide Hills for Sauvigon Blanc, Nebbiolo and cool climate Shiraz. It was not surprising when Pannell, a master of the Shiraz grape, was awarded the Jimmy Watson Trophy for his Echunga-grown Adelaide Hills Syrah.

This is a classy, Australia meets the Rhone styled wine that will win over many Australian palates reared on traditional bold fruited warm climate Shiraz. There’s lots to like in this elegantly constructed modern Australian wine. It should reach its peak 10 years from vintage.

2013 SC PANNELL ADELAIDE HILLS SYRAH
Producer: SC Pannell
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 2 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby red. Attractive nose – smoky, ground black pepper, black cherry and hung meat. Medium bodied, elegant and fine. Model of restraint. Black cherry and pepper. Light on its feet.
Score: 17/20