South African wine has undergone a revolution of sorts over the past decade. Once a country obsessed with outdoing the Bordelaise and Napa Valley and emulating Cote de Beaune Chardonnay, it has turned inward, focussing on old vine plantings of Chenin Blanc as the base for exciting field blends. Mediterranean varieties, specifically Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault have led the way for red wine.
Led by Eben Sadie, Swartland has been the epicentre of this revolution. Adi Badenhorst has also been a key player. Formerly chief winemaker for respected Stellenbosch winery Rustenberg, Badenhorst Family Wines has been responsible for some of the more exciting wines to come out of the Cape in recent years.
Badenhorst Family White 2014 is a multi-varietal blend of Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Verdelho, Clairette Blanc, Viognier, Semillon, Marsanne and Palomino. Stylistically, one could compare it to the white blends from the southern Rhone and Languedoc-Roussillon, though this sort of field blend has emerged as a unique South African style.
It is a wonderfully aromatic and textural wine that combines the best attributes of white Burgundy, Chenin Blanc and exotic Mediterranean whites in one. Given the modest commercial ease of selling wines of this ilk, Adi Badenhorst and his peers should be congratulated for conceiving wines of this ilk.
2014 BADENHORST FAMILY WHITE
Producer: AA Badenhorst
Variety: Chenin Blanc et al
Region: Coastal Region, South Africa
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $60.00
Date tasted: 11 November 2017
Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow. Attractive nose of white flowers, nectarine, white peach, lemon citrus, tropical fruit lurking in the background. Savoury, elegant and very textural, feels and tastes like the bastard child of a good Puligny-Montrachet and Chenin Blanc! Lots going on here, but it feels like there is a lot more to give. Would love to see this wine in 4-5 years.
Score: 17.5/20
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