2015 BERNARD BAUDRY CHINON ‘LES GRANGES’ - LIGHT MY FIRE

When it comes to freshness and lightness of touch, few wines do it better than Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. In a good vintage such as 2015, lively acidity is matched by elegant, ripe red fruit, all in a mid-weight frame. Such is the Bernard Baudry’s 2015 Chinon ‘Les Granges’.

‘Les Granges’ is the entry level expression from Baudry. As such, it is intended for early consumption and doesn’t possess the weight, intensity or potential longevity of more ambitious cuvees. There is no hint of greenness about this wine. Bright red fruits are to the fore, with typical lead pencil shavings lending a touch of complexity.

There’s a lot to like here, and sufficient stuffing to suggest that it should improve in bottle over the short term. One suspects that it will be showing better in 6-12 months and should drink well for another 12-18 months thereafter.

2015 BERNARD BAUDRY CHINON ‘LES GRANGES’
Producer: Domaine Bernard Baudry
Variety: Cabernet Franc
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $32.00
Date tasted: 20 February 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Direct nose of delicate red fruits, dusty herbs, pencil shavings. Dry, medium bodied, sour cherry and pomegranate entwined with lead pencil. Very fresh and easy, albeit not particularly complex, though likely to develop more complexity with a further 6-12 months in bottle. Good stuff for an entry level release.
Score: 16/20

2015 DOMAINE YVES METRAT CHIROUBLES - MORE

The 2015 vintage in Beaujolais and seemingly with good reason. This particular wine, while by no means profound, is everything one could ask for in terms of sheer drinkability.

As seems to be the case with 2015’s it possesses a relatively deep colour. Aromatically, it offers up enticing characters of cherry and plum compote, reflecting the ripeness of the vintage. In the mouth, it is satin-like in texture, full-flavoured yet light as a ballerina on its feet.

Although rather linear, this is simply an irresistible, juicy wine that says ‘drink me’. On this evidence, there is a lot to like to like about 2015 Beaujolais. More of this ilk please!

2015 DOMAINE YVES METRAT CHIROUBLES
Producer: Domaine Yves Metrat
Variety: Gamay
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 17 February 2017

Tasting Note:
Mid-crimson. Attractive nose of cherry compote and dark plum. Medium bodied, elegant and lithe. Lovely sense of lightness and brightness – svelte. Slides over the tongue with ease. Straightforward, but completely, utterly delicious. Dangerously drinkable.
Score: 16.5+/20

2016 SEPPELT DRUMBORG RIESLING - SPEED RACER

Henty may not be the highest profile of Australia’s Riesling producing regions, but at its best it is the source of wines that rank among the very best from these shores. In the shape of Crawford River and Seppelt Drumborg, the region boasts two stand-out wines. Indeed, the former presents a compelling argument to be Australia’s stand-out Riesling.

The 2016 rendition of Seppelt Drumborg Riesling is a beauty. This is a finely honed wine that successfully delivers power and finesse in one. Although a modest 11% ABV, it is bone dry. Light in weight, it certainly doesn’t lack for grunt. Rather like a turbo-charged Subaru WRX, it may not be big in frame, but it can give it to the big boys.

Drink it now on its acid or cellar for 15+ years. Australian Riesling doesn’t get much better than this.

2016 SEPPELT DRUMBORG RIESLING
Producer:  Seppelt

Variety: Riesling
Region: Henty, Victoria
ABV: 11.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 11 February 2017

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Aromatic nose of apple blossom, crisp green apple, lemo/line citrus. Delicate, at the lighter end of medium bodied. A line of rapier-like acidity cuts through the wine. Intense and powerful, with great ‘line and length’. Crab apple, green apple and citrus. Very long. Delivers plenty of pleasure now, but will age extremely well.
Score: 17.5/20

2013 CLARENCE HOUSE ESTATE PINOT NOIR - PERFECT!

This imbiber was particularly taken by the Pinot Blanc from Clarence House Estate a couple of days back. The good news is that the estate’s Pinot Noir is of similarly high quality. This is a wine that is very confident – there’s clever winemaking going on here, not in ‘tricking things up’ way, but in a self-assured way.

There is an excellent sense of harmony about this wine. It is compact, elegant and more savoury than many Australian Pinot Noirs. There is also a decent amount of structure by way of fine powdery tannin. All in all, there’s a lot to like about this stylish, elegantly composed Pinot Noir, not least of all its affordable price-tag.

2013 CLARENCE HOUSE ESTATE PINOT NOIR
Producer: Clarence House Estate

Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Coal River Valley, Tasmania
ABV: 13.7%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $32.00
Date tasted: 4 February 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Attractive nose of pomegranate, morello cherry, freshly tilled earth and truffle. Dry, medium bodied. Very elegant, well judged extract – neat and compact. Still quite young – plenty of powdery tannin sitting behind the fruit. More savoury than many Australian and New Zealand Pinot Noirs. Should age well. Excellent value for money.
Score: 16.5+/20

2016 JIM BARRY ASSYRTIKO - ZORBA THE GREEK

Although it has a rich history of wine production, Greece struggles to make its presence felt on the global wine stage. Assyrtiko might just be the variety that heralds an upswing in fortunes for all things Greek.

It is one variety that can hold its own on the world stage. As a successful white grape variety in its warm Mediterranean home, Assyrtiko offers great promise in Australia. The 2016 vintage marks the first commercial relase of Assyrtiko in Australia, from no less a source than highly respected Jim Barry of the Clare Valley.

Although it has been sourced from vines that are well under ten years old, there is much promise here for the future. Needless to say, there is no lack of acidity, though the acid sits comfortably alongside the fruit.

Stylistically, there are hints of Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling about the wine. One suspects it might take a little time for the variety to find its real identity here in Australia. It promises to be an interesting journey. One hopes that others follow in the footsteps of the Barry family and give it a go.

2016 JIM BARRY ASSYRTIKO
Producer: Jim Barry
Variety: Assyrtiko
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 2 February 2017

Tasting Note:
Very pale silvery yellow – almost water white. Attractive nose of nettle, grapefruit pith and lime citrus – sort of a Sauvignon Blanc meets Riesling nose. Dry, medium bodied, racy acidity carries the structure of the wine. Green, but not under-ripe is the over-riding impression here. Not all that complex, but shows impressive drive and length.
Score: 16+/20

2013 CLARENCE HOUSE ESTATE PINOT BLANC - APPLE PIE

When it comes to aromatic varieties in this part of the world thoughts rarely turn to Pinot Blanc. Much is the pity, as Pinot Blanc can often provide a more satisfying drink that its far more popular relative Pinot Gris.

This fine example from Tasmania’s Clarence House Estate is a case in point. It is textbook Pinot Blanc, with pure apple/pear orchard aromatics, wonderful drive and excellent carry through on the palate.

Entering its fourth year, the wine is in a near perfect place, so much so that one bottle between two is barely enough. If only there were more examples of Pinot Blanc here in Australia!

2013 CLARENCE HOUSE ESTATE PINOT BLANC
Producer: Clarence House Estate
Variety: Pinot Blanc
Region: Coal River Valley, Tasmania
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 3 February 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Aromatic nose of green apples, nashi pear, apple blossom and white nectarine. Dry, medium bodied, excellent fruit intensity in the apple and pear realm. Wonderful drive, a line of laser-like acidity carrying the finish which is long and highly satisfying. Varietal, bang on the money and simply delicious.
Score: 17/20

2009 GIACONDA McCLAY ROAD SHIRAZ - EASY MEAT

Giaconda needs no introduction. It is one of Australia’s leading small estates. While the Estate Chardonnay has led the way, Giaconda’s two premium Shiraz, Estate and Warner Vineyard, are outstanding wines in their own right. Both reflect a Rhone Valley meets Australia philosophy. Stylistically, they share more in common with the hill of Hermitage than traditional Barossa Valley or Heathcote Shiraz.

For those who can’t quite stretch to the $80-$90 a bottle of the two premium Giaconda Shiraz, the McClay Road label represents excellent value. The only downside is that McClay Road is not released every year.

The 2009 McClay Road Shiraz is just starting to strut its stuff. Aromatically and in the mouth it is a ringer for a high quality northern Rhone wine – characuterie, hung game and cured meat are to the fore.

2009 GIACONDA McCLAY ROAD SHIRAZ
Producer: Giaconda
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Region: Beechworth, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 26 January 2017

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Up-front nose of freshly ground black pepper, charcuterie, game/hung meat and olive tapenade. Dry, at the fuller end of medium bodied, tannins fully resolved, the gamey/ meaty character flows through to the palate which is intensely flavoured and complex. Absolutely a point and delicious. Northern Rhone meets Australia!
Score: 17.5/20

2016 LA VIOLETTA ‘DAS SAKRILEG’ - GREAT SOUTHERN LAND

Some might suggest that Australian Riesling ‘plays it safe’ – cultured yeasts, acidified, cool stainless steel fermented – controlled from vineyard to bottle to delivered a known outcome. La Violetta ‘Das Sakrileg’ certainly does not fit this mould.

Wild fermented in old oak puncheons with a dash of Gewurztraminer in the mix, unfined and unfiltered, it is generously textured wine that dares to be different, yet doesn’t lose varietal character or integrity. This is a ‘dare to be different’ wine that stands out from the crowd in a good way.

It is a signpost of the times that wines such as these are being made in Australia. As such, it reflects an industry that is in a generally good state.

2016 LA VIOLETTA ‘DAS SAKRILEG’
Producer: La Violetta
Variety: Riesling
Region: Great Southern, Western Australia
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 26 January 2017

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery yellow with hints of green. Lively nose of lemon/lime and grapefruit citrus, green apple, lemon blossom and yellow plum. In the mouth, textured, good palate weight, plenty of ‘meat on the bones. Citrus and apple orchard. Plenty in reserve – will only get better over the medium term.
Score: 17++/20