2016 MOLINO A VENTO NERELLO MASCALESE - SHE'S LIKE THE WIND

Nerello Mascalese has come to prominence thanks to the renaissance that has taken place on the slopes of Mt Etna over the course of the past decade or so. Conparisons have been drawn between the red wines of Etna and red Burgundy.

One drawback with the wines of Mt Etna is the relatively high price for its entry level wines. If one wants to try Nerello Mascalese at a modest expense, the good news is that there are inexpensive examples of the variety being made elsewhere in Sicily.

This example, from Sicily’s wild west may not possess the finesse Nerello Mascalese grown on Etna, but it does provide an honest representation of the variety. Slightly rustic in feel, it is delivers a combination of berry fruit, dusty herbs and earthy notes.

2016 MOLINO A VENTO NERELLO MASCALESE
Producer: Terre Orestiade
Variety: Nerello Mascalese
Region: Sicily, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 27 November 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Clean nose of plum, dark cherry, freshly tilled earth, dried herbs. Medium bodied, savoury, quite rustic in feel. Dark berry fruit, dried thyme and sage. Spice. Earthy notes.
Score: 15/20

2016 STARGAZER RIESLING - APPLE OF MY EYE

While Tasmanian Pinot Noir and sparkling wines get the headlines, Rieslings from the Apple Isle deserve their time in the sun. The latest release from Samanatha Connew’s Stargazer label is a stonkingly good Riesling.

It marries lemon and lime citrus together with green apple fruits. Acidity provides structure and sits well with the fruit. Enjoy it young and fresh or cellar for 10-15 years.

2016 STARGAZER RIESLING
Producer: Stargazer
Variety: Riesling
Region: Coal River Valley, Tasmania
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $33.00
Date tasted: 3 December 2017

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Attractive aromatics – lime leaf/zest, lemon blossom, green apple – all of which flow through to the palate. Excellent fruit intensity – citrus grove meets apple orchard. Lively and well integrated acidity. Giving lots of pleasure now and should age superbly.
Score: 17+/20

2016 PIEROPAN SOAVE CLASSICO - EASY LOVER

Which is the bigger name? Pieropan the producer or Soave the appellation? Some would suggest the former has more cache as it is the leading producer of Soave. That is not, of course, to say that there aren’t other good exemplars of Soave to be found. However, Pieropan Soave is one of the better known, widely distributed white wines of Italy.

The 2016 vintage rendition of Pieropan Soave Classico does exactly what it says on the label – bright and aromatic, with notes of pear and almond meal. In some respects, it is quite similar to Pinot Gris. It is an easy going wine that is a good entry point to the wonderful world of Italian white varietals.

2016 PIEROPAN SOAVE CLASSICO
Producer: Pieropan
Variety: Garganega, Trebbiano di Soave
Region: Veneto, Italy
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $33.00
Date tasted: 12 November 2017

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow. Lifted aromatic nose of Beurre Bosc pear, white flowers and marzipan, all of which flow through to the palate. Soft, pillowy and easy to drink. Easy to like, ‘go to’ Soave.
Score: 15.5/20

2014 BADENHORST FAMILY WHITE - MODERN WAY

South African wine has undergone a revolution of sorts over the past decade. Once a country obsessed with outdoing the Bordelaise and Napa Valley and emulating Cote de Beaune Chardonnay, it has turned inward, focussing on old vine plantings of Chenin Blanc as the base for exciting field blends. Mediterranean varieties, specifically Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault have led the way for red wine.

Led by Eben Sadie, Swartland has been the epicentre of this revolution. Adi Badenhorst has also been a key player. Formerly chief winemaker for respected Stellenbosch winery Rustenberg, Badenhorst Family Wines has been responsible for some of the more exciting wines to come out of the Cape in recent years.

Badenhorst Family White 2014 is a multi-varietal blend of Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Verdelho, Clairette Blanc, Viognier, Semillon, Marsanne and Palomino. Stylistically, one could compare it to the white blends from the southern Rhone and Languedoc-Roussillon, though this sort of field blend has emerged as a unique South African style.

It is a wonderfully aromatic and textural wine that combines the best attributes of white Burgundy, Chenin Blanc and exotic Mediterranean whites in one. Given the modest commercial ease of selling wines of this ilk, Adi Badenhorst and his peers should be congratulated for conceiving wines of this ilk.

2014 BADENHORST FAMILY WHITE
Producer: AA Badenhorst
Variety: Chenin Blanc et al
Region: Coastal Region, South Africa
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $60.00
Date tasted: 11 November 2017

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow. Attractive nose of white flowers, nectarine, white peach, lemon citrus, tropical fruit lurking in the background. Savoury, elegant and very textural, feels and tastes like the bastard child of a good Puligny-Montrachet and Chenin Blanc! Lots going on here, but it feels like there is a lot more to give. Would love to see this wine in 4-5 years.
Score: 17.5/20

2016 DOMAINE VERDIER-LOGEL ‘LA VOLCANIQUE’ COTES DE FOREZ - DANCE ON A VOLCANO

Beaujolais is arguably the most dynamic and interesting region in France at present, showcasing the many faces of the Gamay grape. This wine isn’t from Beaujolais, though after a swirl, a sniff and taste you’d swear it is.

This is Gamay, but from the central Loire, specifically the little known Cotes de Forez appellation. The couple behind Domaine Verdier-Logel produce several Gamays grown on different soil types; granite which is, of course, synonymous with Gamay and in the case of this wine, ‘La Volcanique’, basalt.

The wine is like sucking on grape skins, mouth-puckering and intense. It cries out for fatty terrine, chopped cornichons and a crusty pain rustique. More please!

2016 DOMAINE VERDIER-LOGEL ‘LA VOLCANIQUE’ COTES DE FOREZ
Producer: Domaine Verdier-Logel
Variety: Gamay
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 3 November 2017

Tasting Note:
Mid-ruby in appearance. Unmistakably Gamay on the nose – cherry, damson, touch of granitic minerality. Dry and savoury, slightly mouth-puckering – like sucking on grape skins. Cherry and blackcurrant. Lively acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16/20

2017 BINK CABERNET FRANC - UPSIDE DOWN

McLaren Vale has long been associated with producing heavyweight Shiraz and Grenache. However, thanks to exciting producers such as Ochota Barrels and Jauma, as well as stalwart Steve Pannell, there has been a collective move towards wines that are lighter, brighter and fresher while retaining regional character.

All of this said and done, one approached this particular bottle of McLaren Vale Cabernet Franc with a degree of trepidation. There are very few single varietal expressions of Cabernet Franc in Australia of note. We struggle to capture the grape’s lightness of touch, lifted aromatics and slightly herbaceous, savoury character. One also suspects that the Australian palate, often reared on sweet fruited Shiraz isn’t predisposed to the straight-jacketed, slender nature of Cabernet Franc.

Back to the wine in question. If one didn’t know it came from McLaren Vale, one would swear bling that it is a very good Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Weighing in at under 13%, it is brightness and freshness personified – cherry confit, raspberry, graphite, lead pencil and a gentle herby twist – this is Cabernet Franc as god intended. It mightn’t be particularly complex, but that is not its purpose, this is a wine made to be drunk young, with good food and good company. Bravo!

2017 BINK CABERNET FRANC
Producer: Bink Wines
Variety: Cabernet Franc
Region: McLaren Vale, South Australia
ABV: 12.9%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 2 November 2017

Tasting Note:
Mid-crimson. Super varietal nose of cherry coulis, rhubarb, graphite and lead pencil. Mid-weight, light on its feet, fresh and pulpy. Very Cabernet Franc – rhubarb, notes of freshly chopped herbs – fresh and dangerously moreish. Not particularly complex but uber-gluggable. Scores very high for drinkability.
Score: 16.5+/20

2015 KNOLL LOIBNER GRUNER VELTLINER FEDERSPIEL - THE SOUND OF MUSIC

Austrian wine has come a long way since the anti-freeze crisis. Boasting a plethora of world class producers and, in the case of Gruner Veltliner, an indigenous grape variety capable of producing captivating, ageworthy wines, Austrian wine has never been in a healthier state.

Emmerich Knoll ranks among Austria’s leading producers and with good reason. Its Loibner Gruner Veltliner Federspiel from the 2015 vintage is bang on form. It boasts an enticing nose of stonefruit and citrus interwoven with white flowers. Irresistible now, it should develop in bottle over the next several years.

2015 KNOLL LOIBNER GRUNER VELTLINER FEDERSPIEL
Producer: Emmerich Knoll
Variety: Gruner Veltliner
Region: Wachau, Austria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $44.00
Date tasted: 21 October 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow with hints of green. Open aromatic nose of nectarine and peach, floral notes, grapefruit zest. Dry, medium bodied, fresh and vibrant. Good line and length. Exotic in feel but very restrained.
Score: 16/20

2016 TONIC WINES GRENACHE - LIGHT YEARS

There once was a time when Australian Grenache was big on alcohol and cordial-like fruit sweetness, but lacked for depth, substance and complexity. That era seems a long time ago, as nowadays Australia is producing world class Grenache, both as a single varietal and as part of southern Rhone-styled blends.

The ascent of natural wines, paralleled by the increased used of whole bunch fermentation has also seen Grenache emerge in a more sprightly, spring-heeled, cool, savoury and urbane form. Such is the case with Tonic Grenache 2016. The name and packaging alone inspire suggestions of minimalist Scandi-cool.

Rather than the usual Grenache suspects Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, the fruit source for this wine is the Clare Valley. It certainly drinks differently to Grenache from those other two big hitter regions, with notes of morello cherry, sarsaparilla and granitic minerality. There’s plenty here to keep one interest and even a touch of intellectual provocation.

2016 TONIC WINES GRENACHE
Producer: Tonic Wines
Variety: Grenache
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.3%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $32.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2017

Tasting Note:
Transluscent garnet. Bright nose, notes of maraschino cherry, tilled earth, star anise. Dry, medium bodied, quite mineral in feel, cola, black cherry, strawberry. Slightly earthbound. Compact and elegant.
Score: 16/20

2016 MAC FORBES YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY - THE BENDS

Few in the game know and understand the Yarra Valley better than Mac Forbes. Born and raised in the Yarra and trained under Dr John Middleton at Mount Mary, Mac has an intimate understanding of the ins and outs of this sprawling region.

Since the launch of his own label, Mac has established himself as a reference point for terroir driven expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. His understated approach to winemaking and preference to pick earlier rather than later allows the influence of site to communicate itself through the glass.

The generic Yarra Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir serve rather a different purpose, being assemblage of several vineyard sites. As such, they are the equivalent of a Bourgogne Blanc or Bourgogne Rouge, albeit in a Yarra Valley context.

The 2016 vintage rendition of Mac Forbes Yarra Valley Chardonnay is true to the producer’s philosophy and the warm weather conditions of 2016. Oak influence is subtle and the winemaker’s hand is judicious rather than overt. This is textbook modern Yarra Valley Chardonnay. It’s not a wine that will change your life, but it’s a decent, well-balanced drink that ticks the boxes,

2016 MAC FORBES YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY
Producer: Mac Forbes
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $33.00
Date tasted: 19 October 2017

2014 MADER PINOT GRIS - FADE TO GRIS

In the past decade, Pinot Gris and its alter ego Pinot Grigio, has swept all before it. It seems that many drinkers have been allured to its lifted aromatics, soft pillowy texture and relatively low acidity. These traits make Pinot Gris (and Grigio) a very easy drinking wine.

Yours truly has rarely been bewitched by the supposed charms of Pinot Gris, much preferring the taut acidity of a sprightly Riesling, or arresting complexity of a fully worked Chardonnay.

However, there are times that call for a bottle of Pinot Gris, in this instance a rich, exotically spiced Sri Lankan curry. Mader Pinot Gris is a textbook example of Alsatian Pinot Gris, just off-dry with prototypical notes of apple, pear, honey and spice. It’s not particularly complex, but it has a ‘made for’ affinity with spiced food.

2014 MADER PINOT GRIS
Producer: Jean-Luc Mader

Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 15 October 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Bold aromatic nose of red apple, Nashi pear, honey and spice. Off-dry, medium bodied, sweet red apple and pear, touch of clove on the finish. Very typical.
Score: 16/20

2016 JOSHUA COOPER DOUG’S VINEYARD PINOT NOIR - I CAN SEE CLEARLY NOW

Pinot Noir has come a long way in Australia over the past quarter century. The maturity of cool climate vineyards in Victoria and Tasmania and heightened interest in the variety has contributed to a quantum leap in quality.

The Macedon Ranges region is without a doubt one of the great places in the new world to grow Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay). Bindi and Curly Flat are evidence of the quality Macedon is capable of producing.

On the evidence of this bottle, Joshua Cooper is a name that must be added to the leading vanguard of Australian Pinot Noir producers. This is sophisticated Pinot Noir with a real edge. Thanks to the use of over 80% whole bunches, there’s a real sense of sappiness to the wine. Sweet fruit is downplayed in favour of tilled earth, truffle and sour cherry. This is a label to watch.

2016 JOSHUA COOPER DOUG’S VINEYARD PINOT NOIR
Producer: Joshua Cooper
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Macedon Ranges, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $55.00
Date tasted: 7 October 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby – slightly cloudy in appearance - presumably unfiltered. Attractive perfumed nose of pomegranate, morello cherry, lilac, rose petal and freshly tilled earth. Dry, medium bodied, sour morello cherry fruit up-front. The impression here is very much savoury. A model of restraint. Lively acidity carries the finish.
Score: 18/20

2014 SCHIEFERKOPF RIESLING - PRETTY VACANT

Alsace produces some of the world’s greatest Rieslings, not the least Trimach Clos Ste Hune. It is also the source of good value dry Riesling for everyday consumption. This bottle of Schieferkopf Riesling with approached with anticipation.

The label itself is owned by ‘king of the Rhone’ Michel Chapoutier. Chapoutier never fails to put a foot wrong in the northern and southern Rhone and his ventures in Australia have produced some excellent wines, including the exceptional value Mathilda Shiraz and white blend of Viognier and Marsanne.

On this evidence, Schieferkopf Riesling doesn’t quite live up to the normal Chapoutier standard. It’s a decent enough wine, clean as a whistle, with a twist of lemon and lime. One could be tempted to suggest that it is delicate, but frankly, it lacks for intensity and depth of flavour. There’s better to be found in the Clare and Eden Valleys and Western Australia’s Great Southern region for this sort of money.

2014 SCHIEFERKOPF RIESLING
Producer: Schieferkopf
Variety: Riesling
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $32.00
Date tasted: 4 October 2017

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow in appearance. Straightforward nose of lime zest and citrus blossom. Delicate, mid-weight in build, lemon and lime citrus. Perfectly drinkable, but lacks fruit intensity and depth of flavour. There are better Australian Rieslings out there for the same (or less) money.
Score: 14/20

2014 MESTIGUILLO MESTIZAJE TINTO - REVIVAL

You mightn’t be aware, but Bobal is the third most heavily planted variety in Spain. Plantings are centred around the city of Valencia in Spain’s south-east. In recent times, there has been a renewed interest in the variety, and a greater emphasis on producing refined wines.

Such is the status of Bodega Mestiguillo as a producer, that it has its own DO. It is a family-owned venture, practising organic viticulture. Among others, the estate has been instrumental in reviving the fortune of Bobal.

This particular wine blends Bobal with Tempranillo and Garnacha, as well as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Reflecting its warm southern origins, it is bursting with flavour and personality. There’s a lot to like here, especially for those looking for a savoury accented, full flavoured wine for the dinner table.

2014 MESTIGUILLO MESTIZAJE TINTO
Producer: Bodega Mestiguillo
Variety: Bobal, Grenache, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
Region: El Terrerazo, Spain
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 28 September 2017

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Slightly closed initially. Opens up to reveal dark berry fruit, woodsmoke and spice. Plenty of flesh on the bones. Luscious and succulent, immaculately balance and well poised. Blood plum, boysenberry and dark cherry. Aniseed, liquorice and toasted fennel seeds.
Score: 16/20

2015 CHATEAU THIVIN COTE DE BROUILLY ‘LES SEPT VIGNES’ - SO SOLID CRU

The 2015 vintage in Beaujolais produced wines that were laden with rich, bold fruit. So ripe was 2015, that some wines possessed alcohol levels we tend to associate with Californian Zinfandel and Barossa Valley Shiraz. There is much to like about the better, more restrained wines of 2015.

Such is the case with Chateau Thivin’s Cote de Brouilly ‘Les Sept Vignes’. Bottled at a modest 13.5% ABV, this is high quality cru Beaujolais. A core of granitic minerality provides the building blocks for a savoury wine.

Dark fruited and slightly introvert, one feels that the wine might be closing down for a wee slumber. Certainly, it is less ebullient than when last tasted. Past experience suggests it should blossom into a real beauty.

2015 CHATEAU THIVIN COTE DE BROUILLY ‘LES SEPT VIGNES’
Producer: Chateau Thivin
Variety: Gamay
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $48.00
Date tasted: 1 October 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Attractive nose of dark cherry, damson and raspberry, touch of flint and gun metal. Dry, medium bodied, restrained and elegant, fine and pure, more mineral than fruity – like licking granite. Damson and black cherry. Serious and adult – feels like it might be shutting down. Should have a good future.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 WHISTLING EAGLE SEMILLON - HISTORY NEVER REPEATS

Semillon is one of Australia’s foundation grape varieties, an important part of our viticultural heritage. Typically, we associate Semillon with the long-lived, early picked unoaked wines of the Hunter Valley. There are also good examples, albeit broader in shape, to be found in the Barossa Valley, Clare Valley and Margaret River.

Heathcote is not the first place one would look for a decent bottle of Semillon. However, Ian ‘Bomber’ Rathjen and the team at Whistling Eagle have produced an absolute beauty. The first thing to say is that this bears little comparison to Hunter Semillon.

Yes, there are typical varietal characters – lemon zest and a hint of lanolin – but this is fuller, richer and broader than Hunter Valley examples. There are also notes of candied lemon peel and ginger lending an exotic twist. This is a dinner table wine, not a wine one would choose to drink on its own. It was a near perfect match with a Chicken Tagine with Preserved Lemon and Quince.

2015 WHISTLING EAGLE SEMILLON
Producer: Whistling Eagle
Variety: Semillon
Region: Heathcote, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 22 September 2017

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow. Interesting nose of candied lemon peel, stem ginger and lemon blossom. Dry, medium bodied, finely tuned. Lemon, lime and ground ginger – exotic in feel. Near perfect foil for a chicken tagine with preserved lemon.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 VON SCHUBERT MAXIMIN GRUNHAUS ‘MAXIM’ RIESLING - APPLE OF MY EYE

Riesling comes in many guises. Few styles of Riesling are more palatable than off-dry wines from Germany. Such is the case with ‘Maxim’ Riesling from the Ruwer. This is not a complex wine, but it is a wine that is simply made to drink. Green apple, pear and twist of lemony acidity is all you need for a perfect aperitif. There’s a touch of residual sugar, held in check by lively acidity. Drink it while it is young and fresh.

2015 VON SCHUBERT MAXIMIN GRUNHAUS ‘MAXIM’ RIESLING
Producer: C Von Schubert
Variety: Riesling
Region: Mosel, Germany
ABV: 10.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $33.00
Date tasted: 17 September 2017

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Direct nose of green apple and pear. Slightly off-dry, good drive and poise. Simple and straightforward apple/pear orchard fruit. Very clean and fine. Very easy drinking.
Score: 16/20

2015 MILLTON VINEYARD ‘LA COTE’ PINOT NOIR - JE T'AIME

Established in 1984, Milton Vineyard is a veteran of the Gisborne region. The vineyard is certified organic and biodynamic. There’s a real European sensibility apparent here, from the name of the wine ‘La Cote’ through to the wine itself.

Some New Zealand Pinot Noirs, particularly those from Central Otago, can be guilty of being over-fruited. Milton ‘La Cote’ Pinot Noir sits outside of the New Zealand Pinot Noir norm, and is all the better for it. This is a wine with a savoury sensibility – dry and earthy, it shares more in common with good red Burgundy than the plethora of sweet-fruited Kiwi Pinots.

There is plernty to like here for those looking for a element of sophistication in their Pinot Noir. Drinkers accustomed to easy, fruit forward Pinot might find they need a glass or two to warm to its sterner savoury personality, but engagement will be rewarded. This is high quality Pinot Noir and reasonably priced to boot.

2015 MILLTON VINEYARD ‘LA COTE’ PINOT NOIR
Producer: Milton Vineyards
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Gisborne, New Zealand
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 12 September 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Alluring nose of freshly tilled earth, truffle, black cherry and subtle oak spice. Medium bodied, pert and savoury. Dry, earthy palate, filled out by suggestions of spice and red fruits. Serious stuff, for what it is. A good drink – food style.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 ROSE KENTISH SHIRAZ TEMPRANILLO MOURVEDRE - WE'RE GOING TO IBIZA!

Amid the flurry for Italian varieties in this part of the world, Tempranillo has been rather lost in the conversation. Yes, there are a good number of examples of Tempranillo from Australia, both as a single varietal and as a blend. However, Tempranillo doesn’t seem to be as ‘on trend’ as the likes of Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.

Former Ulithorne winemaker Rose Kentish has fashioned a delicious wine from McLaren Vale, blending two of the region’s cornerstone varieties, Shiraz and Mourvedre, with Tempranillo. The result is a wine that is composed and savoury, a touch of Spain in South Australia. In terms of sheer drinkability, it has plenty to offer. At a mere $25 per bottle, it delivers excellent value for money.

2015 ROSE KENTISH SHIRAZ TEMPRANILLO MOURVEDRE
Producer: Rose Kentish
Variety: Tempranillo et al
Region: McLaren Vale, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 15 September 2017

Tasting Note:
Deep plum red. Bright nose of sarsaparilla, cola, blood plum and cherry. Hints of tar. Dry, medium bodied, well judged extract. The Tempranillo really comes through, lending the wine a distinctive savoury quality. Lovely balance all round. Real Iberian feel to the wine. Good drinking. Excellent value.
Score: 16.5+/20

2008 ISOLE E OLENA CEPPARELLO - PERFECT!

Year in, year out, Isole e Olena Cepparello is rated as one of Italy’s best wines. Made from 100% Sangiovese and matured a substantially new French oak barriques, it is a quintessentially Tuscan super-Tuscan. While there is a sheen of polished oak here, there is no question as to the wine’s origin or authenticity.

2008 doesn’t stand as one of the great vintage of the noughties, at least not when measured against the likes of 2001, 2004 and 2006. However, Paolo de Marchi and family made an excellent Cepparello in 2008.

This particular bottle, entering its drinking window, showed extremely well. It was paired with a slow cooked lamb shoulder ragu. The flavours of tomato, fennel seed and olive in the dish were made for high quality Sangiovese, and Cepparello was a nigh perfect match. This wine is proof positive that so-called lesser vintages can deliver plenty of pleasure.

2008 ISOLE E OLENA CEPPARELLO
Producer: Isole e Olena
Variety: Sangiovese
Region: Tuscany, Italy
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $100.00
Date tasted: 10 September 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Alluring nose of morello cherry, sandalwood, spice and leather. Medium bodied, very suave and polished. Savoury, slightly earthy, well knit – a wine that is very ‘together – everything is in the right place. Absolutely perfect match for gnocchi with a lamb shoulder ragu.
Score: 18.5/20

NV TIO PEPE FINO ‘EN RAMA’ - RAW HIDE!

The bottling of Manzanilla and Fino in its raw state, ‘en rama’, has been one of the great developments in the world of Sherry in the past decade. For most of us, it is as close as we can get to tasting a wine direct from the solera.

It is particularly pleasing to see that large players such as Gonzalez Byass have embraced innovations such as this. Tio Pepe is always a good drink, notwithstanding the large volumes in which it is made. Tio Pepe ‘En Rama’ takes things to another level. It is a truly exciting wine, with notes of grilled hazelnuts, freshly baked sourdough bread and salty sea air. The added punch here is due to the wine being bottled in spring, when the layer of flor is at its thickest.

This is a new wine to the Australian market. Let’s hope sommeliers and consumers embrace it, as it is utterly delicious. More please!

NV TIO PEPE FINO ‘EN RAMA’
Producer: Gonzalez-Byass
Variety: Sherry
Region: Jerez, Spain
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 9 September 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Engaging and alluring nose of grilled nuts, freshly baked sourdough, distinctive saline note. Full in body, intensely flavoured, great drive and power. Brine, grilled hazelnuts and sourdough. Delicious and a perfect match for Serrano ham.
Score: 17.5/20

2008 DALWHINNIE MOONAMBEL SHIRAZ - TEENAGE DIRTBAG

Dalwhinnie Moonambel Shiraz is a Victorian Shiraz icon with a history running over 30 years. Almost 10 years on from vintage seemed an appropriate time to check on the 2008. On this showing, the wine is going through a slightly awkward adolescence.

There’s sweet fruit aplenty, and the tannins are all but resolved. However, the wine seems a little bit disjointed at present, aromatically and on the palate.

This bottle was the first of a six-pack. On this evidence, it need another few years for the component parts to come together. In view of the fine pedigree of this marque, on will reserve judgement for the time being.

2008 DALWHINNIE MOONAMBEL SHIRAZ
Producer: Dalwhinnie
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Region: Pyrenees, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $65.00
Date tasted: 9 September 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright crimson. Melange of red, blue and black fruits, tar, charcoal, floral notes. Sweet fruited up-front, medium bodied, a little bit disjointed at first but comes together and fills out with air. Silky in texture, blueberries and dark plums, touch of charry oak. Could be going through a slightly awkward stage?
Score: 16/20

2013 VALLANA COLLINE NOVARESI SPANNA - YOU'RE JUST TO HIP, BABY

If there is a grape variety of the moment, it has to be Nebbiolo. Now that Pinot Noir is such a powerhouse, it seems that some drinkers have progressed to variety that possesses many of Pinot Noir’s traits, but with added ‘attitude’.

It is also fair to say, that many have been priced out of red Burgundy, and are looking to park their money elsewhere. The Nebbiolo-based wines of Piedmont are a logical alternative. However, good Barolo and Barbaresco do not come cheaply.

The popularity of Nebbiolo has contributed to a revival of the wines of Alto Piedmont, the northernmost part of Piedmont that literally sits at the foot of the alps. Antonio is a long term player in this part of the world, best known for its delicious Gattinara.

The estate’s Spanna, the local name for Nebbiolo, from the Novare hills, is a delicious example of Nebbiolo. The strong 2013 vintage has produced a sturdily framed wine with great depth of flavour. It is very earthy in feel, with notes of undergrowth and roasted spice. With food, there is plenty to enjoy now, but there is plenty of fuel in the tank.

2013 VALLANA COLLINE NOVARESI SPANNA
Producer: Antonia Vallana
Variety: Nebbiolo
Region: Piedmont, Italy
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 19 August 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Earthy, mushroom, forest floor, old wood. Medium bodied, dry and savoury, nice rounded tannins Very earthbound in character, balsamic notes, roasted spices. Very varietal and good value.
Score: 16.5+/20

NV SANCHEZ AYALA ‘GABRIELA’ MANZANILLA’ - OH SHERRY!

Not much needs to be said about this wine other than it is Manzanilla that does what it says on the label. At $20 per 375ml bottle, it’s the sort of wine that you want to rip out of the fridge, pour in the glass and sip back. Bring on the olives and boquerones!

NV SANCHEZ AYALA ‘GABRIELA’ MANZANILLA’
Producer: Sanchez Ayala
Variety: Sherry
Region: Jerez, Spain
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 26 August 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Creamed honey, sourdough, ozone/sea breeze. Light, brisk and easy. Round on the palate. Easy going, touch of lemon zest, sourdough bread and grilled almonds.
Score: 16/20

2011 GIACONDA ESTATE CHARDONNAY - WORK IN PROGRESS

Giaconda Estate Chardonnay is rightfully considered to be the best example of its type in Australia. The wet 2011 vintage presented many challenges, but Chardonnay was one variety that seemed to prosper. On release, this wine was taut and unyielding, with a distinctive struck match character.

Six years on, the wine most definitely shows some development. The marked sulphide notes of youth have all but disappeared, stonefruit, apple/pear and nutty oak to the fore. On the palate, the wine seems to be a touch reserved at present, as if it is holding something back. Indeed, there’s plenty of structure here, enough to suggest that the wine us still on its upward curve. At present, it is a good, but not necessarily great wine.

2011 GIACONDA ESTATE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Giaconda
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Beechworth, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $150.00
Date tasted: 26 August 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Direct nose of white nectarine, apple, grapefruit and subtle nutty oak. The struck match character of youth is not discernible at all. Takes some time to fill out, noticeable structure, white flowers, pear, nectarine, early suggestions of honeyed evolution. A bit simple on this showing – appears to be in a transitional phase.
Score: 16.5/20