Nebbiolo is arguably the ‘it’ grape in Australia at present. With its Pinot Noir-like aromatics and texture and structured tannins, Nebbiolo produce some of the most ethereal wines. Notwithstanding the recent interest in the grape among Australian vignerons, northern Italy remains very the benchmark for this great grape.
With all of the attention given to Barolo and Barbersco, the so called ‘lesser light’ appellations of northern Piedmont and Lombardy are sometimes forgetten. This particular wine is anything but forgettable.
Nino Negri is one of the leading producers of Valtellina and the estate’s Sforzato di Valtellina ‘5 Stelle’ is a regular recipient of tre bicchieri in the Gambero Rosso publication. Made from Nebbiolo grapes that have been partly raisined post-harvest (like Amarone), it is an exotic expression of Nebbiolo.
Top Barolo can regularly hit 15% ABV in warmer years. Thanks to the concentration of sugars from raisining of the grapes and a relatively warm growing season in 2011, this wine weighs in at a mighty 16% ABV. Notwithstanding the alcohol, it is definitively Nebbiolo, albeit with an opulent disposition.
This is a bold and brash expression of Nebbiolo, but one has to say it works. There is a sense of harmony about the wine and no alcohol heat to speak of. While Piedmontese Nebbiolo seems ill at ease with maturation in small French oak barrels, the time spent in new oak here doesn’t detract from the wine’s authenticity or appeal. In sum, it’s a different and dangerously drinkable interpretation of one of the world’s greatest grape varieties.
2011 NINO NEGRI SFORZATO DI VALTELLINA ‘5 STELLE’
Producer: Nino Negri
Variety: Nebbiolo
Region: Lombardy, Italy
ABV: 16.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $120.00
Date tasted: 16 July 2015
Tasting Note:
Mid-garnet verging to amber on the rim. Perfumed nose of freshly tilled earth, dried mint, aniseed, tea leaves, lilac/rose and truffle. Dry, medium bodied, sweet-fruited up-front. Elegant and svelte in texture. Flavour profile is much the same as the nose – complex and expansive. Finishes long with fine, suave tannins. No alcohol heat.
Score: 17.5+/20
With all of the attention given to Barolo and Barbersco, the so called ‘lesser light’ appellations of northern Piedmont and Lombardy are sometimes forgetten. This particular wine is anything but forgettable.
Nino Negri is one of the leading producers of Valtellina and the estate’s Sforzato di Valtellina ‘5 Stelle’ is a regular recipient of tre bicchieri in the Gambero Rosso publication. Made from Nebbiolo grapes that have been partly raisined post-harvest (like Amarone), it is an exotic expression of Nebbiolo.
Top Barolo can regularly hit 15% ABV in warmer years. Thanks to the concentration of sugars from raisining of the grapes and a relatively warm growing season in 2011, this wine weighs in at a mighty 16% ABV. Notwithstanding the alcohol, it is definitively Nebbiolo, albeit with an opulent disposition.
This is a bold and brash expression of Nebbiolo, but one has to say it works. There is a sense of harmony about the wine and no alcohol heat to speak of. While Piedmontese Nebbiolo seems ill at ease with maturation in small French oak barrels, the time spent in new oak here doesn’t detract from the wine’s authenticity or appeal. In sum, it’s a different and dangerously drinkable interpretation of one of the world’s greatest grape varieties.
2011 NINO NEGRI SFORZATO DI VALTELLINA ‘5 STELLE’
Producer: Nino Negri
Variety: Nebbiolo
Region: Lombardy, Italy
ABV: 16.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $120.00
Date tasted: 16 July 2015
Tasting Note:
Mid-garnet verging to amber on the rim. Perfumed nose of freshly tilled earth, dried mint, aniseed, tea leaves, lilac/rose and truffle. Dry, medium bodied, sweet-fruited up-front. Elegant and svelte in texture. Flavour profile is much the same as the nose – complex and expansive. Finishes long with fine, suave tannins. No alcohol heat.
Score: 17.5+/20
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