If there is a hipster grape variety, it would probably be Nebbiolo. There is something about Nebbiolo that attracts a certain type of drinker – haunting aromatics, delicate yet sturdy – not easy to drink, but rewarding for those who are prepared to engage with it.
Barbaresco producer Giuseppe Cortese has produced an archetypal Nebbiolo from the 2013 vintage. For newcomers to the variety, this is textbook stuff. No more than mid-garnet, aeration reveals a truly complex bouquet; floral, earthy, red fruits, woody spice and more. In the mouth, it isn’t quite as alluring or charming at this point in time, typically assertive Nebbiolo tannins making their presence felt in no uncertain terms.
That said, with food, there is pleasure to be had, particularly for those who aren’t afraid of a bit of structure and don’t mind a wine that ‘bites back’.
2013 GIUSEPPE CORTESE LANGHE NEBBIOLOProducer: Giuseppe Cortese
Variety: Nebbiolo
Vintage: 2013
Region: Piedmont
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $53.00
Date tasted: 16 January 2016
Tasting Note:
Mid-garnet. Aeration reveals a complex nose of cherry, strawberry, fennel seed, mint, sage, violet, dusty herbs, amaro. Dry, medium bodied, very savoury, earthbound, sour cherry and redcurrant, chalky tannins provide structure. Textbook Nebbiolo.
Score: 16.5/20
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