In the past few decades Barbera has well and truly shaken off its workhorse tag to emerge as one of northern Italy’s truly great varieties. Barbera has an affinity with new oak, though the approach to so-called ‘super-Barberas’ varies from one producer to another.
The name Mascarello stands tall in Piedmont – Giuseppe Mascarello is one of the great traditionally minded Barolo producers, Monprivato being among the very best wines made in the region each year. The estate also does a pretty good job with Barbera.
The Barbera Santo Stefano di Perno 2008 is a lusciously endowed wine with a typical Barbera fruit profile overlaid by smoky oak. Approaching a decade on from vintage, there is a lot to enjoy about this wine, but there is sufficient depth to carry it for several more years. At under half the price of the Mascarello Barolos, it is a good alternative for those wanting to experience Mascarello without the expense.
2008 MASCARELLO BARBERA D’ALBA SUPERIORE SANTO STEFANO DI PERNOProducer: Giuseppe Mascarello
Variety: Barbera
Vintage: 2008
Region: Piedmont, Italy
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $75.00
Date tasted: 21 September 2015
Tasting Note:
Deep ruby in appearance. Interesting nose of cherry, dark plum, freshly polished leather, woodsmoke and roasted spice. Medium bodied, supple in texture, rich but balanced and in proportion. Lovely mix of opulence and elegance. Oak is prominent, but well handled in a Rioja Reserva sort of a way. Typical Barbera acidity kicks on the finish. Plenty of time to run.
Score: 17.5/20
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