Some pundits complain of high alcohol in modern wines. They have a point, especially when it comes to the primary function of wine, to complement food at the dinner table. That said, there is a time and a place for what one might describe as exuberantly ripe wines.
When it comes to high alcohol, Durif, specifically Durif fron Rutherglen, is a variety that can ripen and high alcohol levels and remain balanced. It is not uncommon to see Rutherglen Durif at 15%-16% ABV.
At Warrabilla, things are taken a bit further. In the warm 2009 vintage, Warrabilla’s Limited Release ‘Parola’s’ Durif fermented out to a whopping 18% ABV, higher in alcohol than some fortified wines. Several years from vintage, the wine is in its adolescent phase, bearing the grainy tannins of youth.
Although it is undeniably Port-like, the wine is remarkably well balanced, showing no alcohol heat whatsoever. This is a divisive style, and perhaps intended to be! Those who like their wines full throttle, fully optioned with mag wheels and furry dice will find a lot to like.
2009 WARRABILLA LIMITED RELEASE ‘PAROLA’S’ DURIFProducer: Warrabilla
Variety: Durif
Vintage: 2009
Region: Rutherglen, Victoria
ABV: 18.0%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 2 June 2015
Tasting Note:
Deep ruby, with thick, viscous legs. Brooding nose of liqueur cherry and plum, dark chocolate, dessicated coconut and sweet vanillin. Full bodied, powerful, uber-intense, red berries laced in liqueur, Port-like. High in alcohol, but extremely well balanced – no heat whatsoever. Grainy tannins suggest the wine needs a few years to reach its peak.
Score: 16/20
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