2013 MOUNT ABORA ‘SAFFRAAN’ CINSAUT - TRUE

We tend to encounter Cinsua(l)t primarily as a blending partner with Grenache, Syrah, Moruvèdre etc in southern French red wines. Infrequently do we see it as a single varietal, and rarely as an impressive wine in its own right.

Although rarely seen in Australia, Cinsault is widely planted in South Africa. As many will know, it is a parent of Pinotage (for better or worse, one might say!).

This particular wine, from the very hip region of Swartland, is a very impressive rendition of the variety. There is considerable aromatic complexity on display, and a lovely savoury, restrained palate. Best of all, it weighs in at a mere 12% ABV.

Although it is slightly rustic, there is plenty to enjoy with ‘Safraan’ Cinsaut. This is an unadulterated, unpretentious wine that provides exceptional drinkability.

2013 MOUNT ABORA ‘SAFFRAAN’ CINSAUT
Producer: Mount Abora
Variety: Cinsault
Vintage: 2013
Region: Swartland, South Africa
Alcohol: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 15 March 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Attractive nose of cherry, plum, tar, dusty herbs, leather and charcuterie. Dry, medium bodied, savoury, very restrained. Flavour profile on the palate is similar to the nose, albeit less complex. A model of savoury restraint – in a good way!
Score: 16/20

2013 CROSSROADS ‘MILESTONE SERIES’ GEWÜRZTRAMINER - CANDY

Gewürztraminer is a love it or hate it variety. It either needs to be enjoyed in context, with appropriate Asian or smoky/salty Alsatian cuisine, or by those that love its bold and brassy personality.

This particular imbiber is an infrequent consumer of ‘Gewürz’, choosing to grab a bottle once or twice a year, typically alongside Thai food. Crossroads ‘Milestone Series’ Gewürztraminer sits at the restrained end of the spectrum for what is an extrovert variety.

Pale in colour, it delivers restrained lychee and Nashi pear/candied apple. While there is varietal character to be had, it is very much genteel, particularly when compared to certain examples (including Vinoptima, arguably New Zealand’s best Gewürztraminer).

It is difficult to know if this wine is principally a product of place or producer style. When it comes to aromatic varieties in New Zealand, we tend to think of Marlborough rather than Hawke’s Bay. All in all, this is a solid example of Gewürztraminer, one that might benefit from a few years in bottle to showcase the more extrovert side of the variety.

2013 CROSSROADS ‘MILESTONE SERIES’ GEWÜRZTRAMINER
Producer: Crossroads
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2013
Region: Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $23.00
Date tasted: 13 March 2015

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery yellow in appearance. Lifted, gently perfumed nose; slightly musky, lychee, Nashi pear/candied apple. Dry, medium bodied, candied apple flows through to the palate, which is ever slightly confected. Quite restrained. Would be interesting to revisit in 4-5 years.
Score: 15/20

2013 WILSON VINEYARD POLISH HILL RIESLING - IT'S TRICKY

Clare Valley Riesling is known for its trademark lemon/lime citrus character. The Polish Hill Riesling from the Wilson Vineyard is unmistakeably Clare on the nose – citrus abounds, together with crushed chalk.

On the palate, the wine doesn’t quite hang together. Up-front, there’s a suggestion of residual sugar, and the finish is a slightly muddied mix of clean acidity and oily maturity. Taken on face value, the wine is slightly disjointed and doesn’t make for an altogether pleasurable drinking experience at this point in time.

This is a wine that appears to have entered a transitional phase of mid-maturity and is perhaps best left alone for a few years. While it may never hit great heights, it does have regional and varietal integrity.

2013 WILSON VINEYARD POLISH HILL RIESLING
Producer: Wilson Vineyard
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
Alcohol: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $24.00
Date tasted: 21 February 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow in appearance. Typical lemon/lime, kaffir lime leaf, crushed chalk. Medium bodied, touch of residual sugar. Showing some development on the back palate – starting to fill out. Fuji apple and pear, slightly confected edge. May just be starting to enter an awkward phase. Revisit in a few years.
Score: 14.5/20

2013 PICO MACCARIO ‘LAVIGNONE’ BARBERA D’ASTI - EASY...

Serious Barbera lends itself to maturation in small format oak. This particular example sits at the other end of the spectrum – it is Barbera ‘naked’ – an unencumbered expression of variety and site.

It is bang on the money in terms of varietal character, though it delivers modest complexity. That said, this is not necessarily intended to be an all singing all dancing sort of wine, but a savoury, slightly rustic Piedmontese red that sits well with appropriately matched food. In that sense, it ticks the boxes.

2013 PICO MACCARIO ‘LAVIGNONE’ BARBERA D’ASTI
Producer: Pico Maccario
Variety: Barbera
Vintage: 2013
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Synthetic cork
Retail Price: $24.00
Date tasted: 20 February 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Straightforward and varietally correct nose of cherry and marzipan, touch of violet. Medium bodied, dry and savoury. Pleasant and true to type if not particularly complex or long. Solid but no more.
Score: 15/20

2002 ROCKFORD BASKET PRESS SHIRAZ - WHOLE LOTTA LOVE!

Rockford’s Basket Press Shiraz has made numerous appearances on these pages. It is a wine that needs little introduction; warm, cuddly and much loved. This 2002 was the first of a six-pack to be opened.

On pulling the cork, any sense of trepidation was immediately put to rest. This is an outstanding Basket Press. Aromatically and on the palate it is immediately complex; rich red fruits macerated in liqueur married with exotic Asian spices.

While this style of wine won’t appeal to all tastes, there is no doubting its quality. This is an outstanding Shiraz that is Barossa to the core. Best of all, everything is in proportion – nothing is overdone or in excess. Bravo!

2002 ROCKFORD BASKET PRESS SHIRAZ
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2002
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
Alcohol: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 15 February 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby fading slightly at the rim. Attractive and immediately complex nose of liquorice, aniseed, tar, Chinese five spice, fennel, Satsuma plum and boysenberry. The exotic character follows through to the palate, with Asian spices lending complexity. The alcohol is barely noticeable. Drinking well now, but should improve further and hold for at least a decade thereafter,
Score: 18.5/20