2004 CARPINETO CHIANTI CLASSICO - IN THE SLOT!

Although it sits (alongside Barolo) as Italy’s most famous wine, Chianti is enormously variable in terms of quality. While considerable gains have been made in the past two to three decades, most particularly in terms of increasing the percentage of Sangiovese in the final blend and reducing the use of white grapes, Chianti styles vary considerably.

Chianti Classico, for many the standard bearer of quality Chianti (though producers of Chianti Rufina would beg to differ) is a far from homogenous appellation. The styles of wines produced are as diverse as the rolling hills of central Tuscany from which they originate. Blending partners such as Canaiolo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot all lend their own personality to the final wine, as do the different oak maturation regimes employed by the region’s many producers.

With that in mind, it is refreshing to come across a benchmark example of ‘classic’ Chianti from the excellent 2004 vintage. Almost a decade on, it is drinking at the peak of its powers, a lovely blend of fading primary fruit and secondary complexity. This particular bottle illustrates the importance of timing, as the cork was drawn at pretty much the perfect point in its evolution.

2004 CHIANTI CLASSICO
Producer: Carpineto
Variety: Sangiovese
Vintage: 2004
Region: Tuscany, Italy
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 13 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Mid garnet, starting to brown on the rim. Mature nose of leather, fig, sandalwood, cherry lurking in the background. Round, soft and inviting on the palate, lovely balance of faded primary fruit and secondary complexity. Tannins have completely resolved and the acidity is fine and well balanced. Excellent example of mature Chianti Classico. Top marks for typicity!
Score: 17/20

2011 WESTEND ESTATE THREE BRIDGES CABERNET SAUVIGNON - WINNERS ARE GRINNERS

Much is said and written of the Australian Show system. On the plus side, one can argue that it elevates the overall quality of wine made in this country and helps eliminate or at least reduce the incidence of faulty wines. Some suggest that it can lead to a homogenisation of wine, and a ‘bigger is better’ approach, arguing that more elegant, backward wines don’t show well when assessed en masse. Then there is the point that many of the very best producers don’t enter their wines in competition.

With this in mind, what does it mean to be the Stodart Trophy winner? Second in importance to the Jimmy Watson Trophy (from a commercial stand-point), the Stodart Trophy is awarded to the best one-year old dry red wine submitted for judging at the Royal Queensland Wine Show. Winner of the Stodart Trophy in 2012 was the 2011 Three Bridges Cabernet Sauvignon from Riverina-based producer Westend Estate.

As to the wine, it is no blockbuster, rather an elegant and very classic expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. A blend of Riverina (60%) and Hilltops (40%) fruit, it is archetypal Cabernet Sauvignon. At this early stage in its life it displays at best moderate complexity, but there is upside for further development. All in all, it’s a well made, stylish wine.

What does this say of the show system? For one, it’s clear that wines are being judged on more than just raw power; consideration is being given to varietal integrity, elegance, purity and how the wines perform on the dinner table. If that reflects an overall shift in the consciousness of the Australian wine industry, then it is no bad thing.

2011 THREE BRIDGES CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Westend Estate
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2011
Region: Multi-regional (Riverina and Hilltops)
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $26.00
Date tasted: 24 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Nose is initially driven by cassis and blackberry coulis, opening with air up to reveal classical Cabernet Sauvignon dusty and earthy notes as well as menthol and charcoal. Dry, medium bodied, a model of elegance, very varietal and ‘classical’, sweet fruited up-front. Not overly complex at present, but there is genuine varietal integrity and excellence balance here. Should develop well over the medium term.
Score: 16+/20

2011 WILD DUCK CREEK YELLOW HAMMER HILL - GENTLE GIANT

Over the years, Heathcote producer Wild Duck Creek has built up a cult following for its rather idiosyncratic wines. The estate’s wines are picked very ripe, and often ferment through to over 16% alcohol buy volume. Yet, unlike some of their peers, the wines of Wild Duck Creek manage to retain a sense of balance. Indeed, some of its wines even come over as being rather elegant (of their type).

As has been well documented, 2011 was a cool wet vintage across much of southern Australia. In this imbiber’s view, it has produced some very attractive wines in warmer regions such as Heathcote, checking the tendency toward excess. Volumes were significantly reduced at Wild Duck Creek in 2011, and neither ‘Duck Muck’ or the Reserve Shiraz were bottled.

The 2011 Yellow Hammer Hill, a blend of Shiraz and Malbec weighs in 15% alcohol. However, the wine is not a boisterous heavyweight. Yes, the nose screams warm climate Shiraz, the Malbec lending black fruits. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied, an attractive blend of sweet and sour, the alcohol extremely well balanced and barely discernible. Those who like their wines with plenty of up-front fruit should find plenty to enjoy.

2011 YELLOW HAMMER HILL
Producer: Wild Duck Creek
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz blend (blended with 25% Malbec)
Vintage: 2011
Region: Heathcote
ABV: 15%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Brooding nose of liqueur cherries, blackberry, liquorice, tar. At the fuller end of medium bodied, soft and approachable, nice balance of sweet and sour, melange of red and black fruits, tar on the finish. Alcohol is, by and large, held in check.
Score: 16/20

2010 DOMAINE WILFRIED RASTEAU - DEMOCRACY IN ACTION

Rasteau is one of a growing number of southern Rhône villages that has official appellation status. From the excellent 2010 vintage, the Rasteau from Domaine Wilfried (a producer hitherto unknown to this imbiber) is a very typical premium southern Rhône red.

Ripe, full bodied and with generous alcohol, it delivers a mélange of kirsch/raspberry, savoury herbs and spice. Round and supple, it is a wine that is dangerously easy to drink. While they mightn’t possess the finesse and ethereal quality of red Burgundy, or the serious qualities of classed growth Bordeaux, there is something democratic about the wines of the southern Rhône. With the exception of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, they are affordable, boldly fruited, generous, spicy and dare I say, comforting.  This wine isn’t about to change the world or send drinkers into a frenzy, but it does deliver a considerable amount of pleasure for a relatively modest outlay.  

2010 RASTEAU
Producer: Domaine Wilfried
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: 14.00 Euros
Date tasted: 12 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Brooding nose; smoky, black cherry/raspberry, meaty and gamey, thyme and mint. Very inviting. Dry, rich and powerful, melange of red and black fruit, meaty and spicy. Full bodied, full flavoured and bold, but far from over the top. Comforting glass of wine.
Score: 16/20

2010 DOMAINE DES GROS PATA CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC - SUPPORT THE UNDERDOG

When it comes to the wines of France’s southern Rhône Valley, white wines very much play second fiddle to red. With their natural ripeness, sweet up-front fruit and spicy complexity, the region’s red wines are easy to like, especially for Australian palates that have been raised on ripe, fruit forward wines.

We hear relatively little of the region’s white wines. A recent visit to the region changed this particular imbiber’s view. As they lack the natural freshness of wines from Frances more northerly region’s, southern Rhône whites are not always easy to enjoy on their own.  However, when placed alongside appropriate food, especially white meat dishes such as chicken and veal, they literally sing.

The wine reviewed here was far from the most interesting example tasted while in the region. However, at a very modest price, it delivers plenty of pleasure. One could imagine enjoying a glass or two alongside a simply baked snapper or chicken salad.

2012 CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC
Producer: Domaine des Gros Pata
Variety: Southern Rhône white blend (Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Viognier, Bourbelenc)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Plastic cork
Retail Price: 5.60 Euros
Date tasted: 10 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Pale lemon yellow. Bright nose with gentle aromatics (honeysuckle, apricot), white peach. Dry, medium bodied and savoury. Simple palate of green apple and apricot. Gentle and round. Nice easy quaffing white with a modicum of complexity.
Score: 14.5/20

2010 DOMAINE DU MORTIER ST NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL 'DIONYSOS' - YOU'RE SO COOL

The central Loire Valley has pretty much a monopoly when it comes to single varietal Cabernet Franc. The appellations of Chinon, Bourgueil and St Nicolas de Bourgueil set the standard when it comes to the variety. For one reason or another, they tend to be wines appreciated by a relatively select few. Accordingly, the very best examples are very reasonably priced.

Under-ripe Cabernet Franc can be rather unpleasant, with painfully astringent tannins. However, the best examples of the variety display lovely fragrant aromatics, a ripe yet savoury palate, framed by fine tannins and fresh acidity. These elegant and extremely food friendly wines are well suited to Australia’s warm climate; medium in body and with a natural freshness typical of the best wines of the cool Loire Valley.

This particular example was organically farmed by Domaine du Mortier, a relatively new player in St Nicolas de Bourgueil. Slightly reductive at first, it displays the best attributes of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc; a red-fruited nose, stylish palate and bright lifted acidity. To be fair, it is just a youngster, and will benefit from another 4-6 years in bottle. Cabernet Franc, take a bow, you’ve won this drinker over.

2010 ST NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL ‘DIONYSOS’
Producer: Domaine du Mortier
Variety: Cabernet Franc
Vintage: 2010
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 13%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $34.00
Date tasted: 6 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby red. Slightly reductive on opening, but blows off with air, rhubarb, raspberry coulis, blackcurrant, pencil shavings. Dry, ripe blackcurrant/raspberry fruit up-front, graphite, woodsmoke, elegant and medium bodied, ripe fine tannins, well integrated fine acidity on the finish. Quite primary – needs 5 or so years in the cellar.
Score: 16.5/20

2010 CANTINA TERLANO PINOT BIANCO RISERVA 'VORBERG' - YOU'RE THE ONE THAT I WANT!

Pinot Bianco aka Pinot Blanc is a variety that is rarely associated with excitement.  Clean and fresh – yes. Chardonnay-like – perhaps. Exciting – rarely. One exception to the rule is the quite brilliant Pinot Bianco Riserva ‘Vorberg’ from northern Italian co-operative Cantina Terlano.

The 2010 rendition of this highly acclaimed wine possesses a greenish yellow colour. The nose is immediately inviting. This is clearly a serious wine, and a highly complex one at that. White peach, pear, lemon/lime zest, freshly chopped herb and minerals ooze out of the glass. In the mouth, the wine is textured, palate caressing and remarkably intense in flavour, yet balanced by finely poised citrusy acidity, a reflection of its alpine origin.

Cantina Terlano’s Pinot Bianco Riserva ‘Vorberg’ is a standard bearer for Italian white wine, and very strong evidence to support the argument that Italy is the source of the worlds finest white wines. Certainly, no other country can boast Italy’s diversity. At just under $60 per bottle, it doesn’t come cheap, but for a wine of such quality, it represents excellent value when compared to the likes of white Burgundy and Alsace.

2010 PINOT BIANCO RISERVA ‘VORBERG’
Producer: Cantina Terlano
Variety: Pinot Blanc
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alto Adige, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $58.00
Date tasted: 6 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow. Inviting aromatic nose of pear, white peach, lemon zest and fresh herbs. Dry, medium bodied crystalline purity, excellent depth of flavour, lovely palate weight underscored by a fine line of acidity, perfectly composed and balanced. Drinking superbly now. More evidence of the qualities of premium Italian white wine.
Score: 18/20

2010 RAVENSWORTH MARSANNE - INTENSE!

Tahbilk Marsanne has long been a staple for many Australian wine enthusiasts. In its youth, Tahbilk Marsanne tends to be rather shy, backward and reticent, fleshing out with bottle age. The 2010 Marsanne from Ravensworth is in marked contrast. Boldly flavoured, intense and powerful, it is a muscular interpretation of Marsanne.

At first glance, one wasn’t completely sure about this wine. With just moderate acdity and a touch of warming alcohol on the finish, it initially came over as a rather awkward. Yet, as the wine opened up and warmed up slightly in the glass, it really started to strut its stuff. Subtle it might not be, but this is a wine that delivers plenty by way of flavour, and is extremely food friendly. At around $20 a bottle, it more than merits the moniker ‘bargain’.

Having perused the producer’s website, it seems that 2011 was the final vintage for this particular wine, with the Marsanne fruit destined for a field blend named ‘The Grainery’. If this particular wine is any evidence, ‘The Grainery’ is a wine that could well be worth following.

2010 MARSANNE
Producer: Ravensworth
Variety: Marsanne
Vintage: 2010
Region: Murrumbateman, New South Wales
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 5 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Bold nose of peach, honeydew and fig. The palate is similarly bold and intensely flavoured, with a similar spectrum as the nose, crystallised stem ginger. Immensely powerful example of Marsanne, with just enough acidity to hold it in check. Warm alcohol on the finish.
Score: 16+/20

2011 TERZINI MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO - 'YOU GET WHAT YOU PAYS FOR'

There is a good number of relatively inexpensive examples Montepulciano d’Abruzzo to be found in the Australian wine marketplace, some of which have gained a sizeable following. While one can secure a smartly packaged inoffensive Montepulciano d’Abruzzo at the bargain price of $10 per bottle, what can one expect for an outlay of $28?

If the 2011, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Terzini is anything to go by, with Montepulciano as with many things in life, ‘you get what you pays for’. True to the variety, it is inky crimson/magenta colour. The nose is powerful and brooding, yet not without a feminine edge, as floral notes emerge with air. Although not profound, the wine eminently drinkable, silky in texture and deeply fruited. It is a near perfect with rich Italian ragus. Although the wine sits at the riper end of the Montepulciano spectrum, it is compact and well balanced, with no evidence of excess.

2011 MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO
Producer: Terzini
Variety: Montepulciano
Vintage: 2011
Region: Abruzzo, Italy
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 4 October 2013

Tasting Note:
Inky magenta. Intense nose of blackberry/blueberry coulis; dark fruit and brooding. Hint of black pepper. Sweet fruited up-front, alluring texture – medium bodied, silky and stylish. Floral notes emege with air. Savoury on the mid-palate, dark fruits (damson, blackberry, blueberry), slightly smoky. Long finish. Not enormously complex, but delivers immense pleasure.
Score: 17+/20

2011 CURLY FLAT CHARDONNAY - CREAM.....

In this particular imbiber’s not so humble opinion, Macedon is one of ,if not the, most exciting regions in mainland Australia for the two great Burgundian varieties, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The likes of Bindi, Epis and Curly Flat produce some of the most refined examples and Chardonnay and Pinot Noir seen in Australia today.

2011 is a rather derided vintage in much of Australia. It was a cool, damp year, one that presented a number of viticultural issues, not the least being the proliferation of rot. Yet, there seems to be a bit of revisionism going on, with some who initially saw little charm in the vintage now acknowledging that there were some real winners in 2011.

While 2011 was a challenging vintage, Chardonnay was a triumph. While Mornington Peninsula veteran Main Ridge didn’t release a Pinot Noir from 2011, proprietor Nat White suggests that the 2011 Chardonnay could be the best ever produced chez Main Ridge.   Anyone who has tasted the 2011 Giaconda Estate Chardonnay will recognise that it is one of the best white wines ever bottled on these shores.

The team at Curly Flat are equally upbeat about their 2011 Chardonnay. At 13.5% ABV, it’s certainly not a shy and retiring creature. On the nose, it is open, inviting and immediately complex. The bouquet delivers an interesting array of primary fruit and winemaking derived characters. In the mouth, it is quite a ‘worked’ Chardonnay, round and creamy in texture, with fine acidity providing balance and length. It is a good Chardonnay without a doubt, but perhaps not quite up to the standard of the excellent 2010, which seems to have just a touch more structure. That said, lovers of premium Australian Chardonnay will find a lot to like here, and with good reason.

2011 CHARDONNAY
Producer: Curly Flat
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2011
Region: Macedon Ranges
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 29 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Greenish yellow with golden glints. Open nose of honeydew melon, white peach, grilled hazelnuts and vanilla. Round and creamy in texture, extremely drinkable, even on its own. Fine balancing acidity carries the finish. Good quality Chardonnay of a relatively ‘worked’ style. There’s plenty to like here, though it would seem to be best enjoyed in the short to medium term.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 PONDALOWIE MT TEMPRANILLO - NEW WAVE

We have looked at previous vintages of the Pondalowie’s unoaked MT Tempranillo in these pages. The 2012 vintages follows suit and is in fine form. It is a wine that illustrates just how well suited Tempranillo is suited to Australia.

As always, Dominic Morris has captured the varietal essence of Tempranillo, unbridled by oak – medium in body, black cherry entwined with cherry cola/sarsaparilla, fine tannins on the finish. It is a supple and savoury wine, made to be enjoyed with food.

If one was to put together a collection of wines that showcase the ‘new Australia’, Pondalowie MT Tempranillo would mostly definitely be in the mix; moderate alcohol, savoury in character, food-friendly and ever-so drinkable. Isn’t that what most of us want from a bottle of good wine?

2012 MT TEMPRANILLO
Producer: Pondalowie Vineyards
Variety: Tempranillo
Vintage: 2012
Region: Bendigo
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $28.00
Date Tasted: 28 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Crimson to the core. Black cherry, plum and ‘cherry cola'. Medium bodied, well poised, glossy texture, excellent fruit intensity in the black cherry, sarsaparilla mode. Finishes long and savoury with gentle chalky tannins. Lots to enjoy now, but should develop further complexity with additional bottle age.
Score: 16.5/20