Ever popular, Pinot Gris/Grigio is a variety that all too often flatters to deceive. With its modest acidity and gentle aromatic profile, it often comes over (to this imbiber at least) as a low rent Chardonnay. However, to every rule, there are many exceptions. One such exception is the Sand Dollar Pinot Gris 2011 from New Zealand’s Greystone Wines.
This particular example takes its cue from Alsace and does so very well indeed. It is a wine that certainly doesn’t under-deliver in flavour. The wine literally jumps out of the glass with apple and pear orchard fruit intermingled with stonefruit and spice. The palate is similarly full flavoured; this is a wine that is about bold flavour. It’s no shrinking violet!
Although there is residual sweetness here, the wine finishes dry, lending a good sense of balance to the wine. As with some Alsatian examples of Pinot Gris, the alcohol is toward the higher end of the scale at 14%, though one would be surprised if it were slightly higher. However, it is held in check thanks to the wine’s considerable power and flavour profile.
This is a wine that begs for moderately spiced Asian cuisine; Chinese, Thai, Malaysia, Indian, all of them would work. Alternately, the gentle sweetness would be a good foil for salty smoked meats. Kudos to Greystone Wines for producing a Pinot Gris that stands out from the pack.
2011 SAND DOLLAR PINOT GRISProducer: Greystone
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Waipara Valley, New Zealand
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $24.99
Date tasted: 21 July 2013
Tasting Note:
Lemon yellow with green tinges. Open aromatic nose of green apple, pear, lychee and spice. Off-dry, deeply flavoured, the palate is similar in profile to the bouquet, excellent depth and varietal definition. Oodles of flavour here, if not necessarily subtlety. Finishes slightly dry, which gives the wine a good sense of balance. Textbook Pinot Gris in the Alsatian style.
Score: 16.5+/20
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