2007 CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, LA FERME DU MONT - DOWN ON THE FARM

La Ferme du Mont, the label of vigneron Stéphane Vedeau, is a relatively new arrival to a region dominated by established names with a rich family history such as Château de Beaucastel (Perrin family) and Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe (Brunel family). However, in a relatively short space of time, La Ferme du Mont has made people stand up and take notice, its Chateauneuf-du-Pape, in particular, attracting glowing reviews and high scores from the likes of Jancis Robinson MW and Robert Parker.

In the past couple of decades, southern Rhône wines have pushed the envelope in terms of ripeness and alcohol levels, often exceeding 15% alcohol by volume, sometimes 16%. For those that want to be able to enjoy more than just one glass, it is a relief to see that La Ferme du Mont’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape from the excellent 2007 vintage weighs in at a sensible 14% ABV.

This is a wine that generated some controversy on release. It was highly praised, scoring 19 points from no lesser authority than Jancis Robinson MW. However, when physical stock landed a while later and eager connoisseurs pulled the cork on their new arrival, a good number were disappointed, noting that the wine was nothing like the one they had read about; light in colour, lacking depth and unlikely to improve greatly. To his credit, Vedeau intervened, putting the issue down to a bottling line problem.

The bottle in question here was the first of a case bought in the United Kingdom. On this evidence, it is undoubtedly not just a good bottle, but an outstanding one. Six years out from vintage it bursts with floral and sweet fruit, balanced by a lovely spicy savoury mid-palate. What impresses one most is the elegant proportion of the wine. This is not an assault on the senses, but an elegant seduction. On this showing, those with a case or two of La Ferme du Mont’s 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the cellar have good reason to be smug.

2007 CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE ‘COTES CAPELAN’
Producer: La Ferme du Mont
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2007
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 18 May 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep plum red. Attractive nose of kirsch, strawberry, dark plum, stewed cherries, white pepper, lavender and violets. Full bodied, ripe and sweet fruited initially but quickly moves to savoury with sour cherry/pomegranate on the mid-palate. Tannins are inobtrusive, fine and slightly chalky and the acidity is subsumed within the weight of fruit. Plenty of class on show here. Although this wine will undoubtedly flourish with further bottle age, it is by no means closed down or going through a surly phase. Lives up the hype it received when initially released.
Score: 18.5/20