12 March 2013

2009 TAROT GRENACHE - QUEEN OF HEARTS

In Australia, we tend to ignore just how far we have progressed with Grenache in the past two to three decades. Originally a base for fortified wines, Australia has some of the oldest Grenache vines on the planet. Yet it is a variety that is still struggling for respect. Not as sexy as Pinot Noir, not as popular as Shiraz, not as serious as Cabernet, Grenache just doesn’t seem to attract wide interest or appeal. Yet, better contemporary examples of Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale Grenache are as good as they have ever been.

Twenty or so years ago, Grenache was often jammy and confected, certainly not sophisticated. These days, better examples tend to be more savoury in profile, emphasising spice and the kirsch/liqueur cherry fruit profile one associates with the variety. Yes, the wines tend to be high in alcohol, such is Grenache. However, as the 2009 Tarot Grenache from Alpha, Box & Dice illustrates, balance is key. This is a wine that is shy of full bodied, savoury in character and well balanced notwithstanding it’s 15% ABV.

Chateau Rayas it may not be, but it is a good example of McLaren Vale Grenache that is food friendly; equally at home with gourmet bangers and mash, a burger or marinated lamb chops straight off the barbecue.

2009 TAROT GRENACHE
Producer: Alpha, Box & Dice
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2009
Region: McLaren Vale
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $17.00
Date tasted: 27 February 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. High toned nose of tar, licorice, kirsch and ground pepper. Touch volatile (but not unpleasantly so). Quite savoury, no tannin to speak of, morello cherry. Relatively simple, but satisfying and drinking very well. Although the alcohol is high, the wine is well balanced and not heavy or hot in any sense.
Score: 15.5/20

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