2009 FATTORIA CORONCINO VERDICCHIO SUPERIORE 'IL BACCO' - ATOMIC

A criticism sometimes levelled at Italian white wines is that they can be neutral to the point of being bland. While this may be true of the ocean of Italian white wine produced on inferior sites and harvested at high yields, it is most definitely not the case when it comes to Italy’s great producers and appellations. The excellent Verdicchio ‘Il Bacco’ from Fattoria Coroncino is a case in point.

Although not über-complex, the wine possesses a beguiling texture, that literally teases the palate. At 14% ABV, it is weighty, yet by no means glycerolic or heavy. A fine ripple of acidity. As with many interesting Italian white wines, it is not a powerhouse, but delivers interesting layers of flavour, in this instance melon, grapefruit and suggestions of cut grass. It is a very food-friendly wine, that would work with a range of seafood dishes, and would stand up well to a simply roasted chicken. At under $30, it represents excellent value for money.

2009 FATTORIA CORONCINO VERDICCHIO SUPERIORE ‘IL BACCO’
Producer: Fattoria Coroncino
Variety: Verdicchio
Vintage: 2009
Region: Marche, Italy
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 7 December 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright straw gold. Interesting bouquet of honeydew melon, grapefruit pith, touch of honey and spice. Medium bodied, lovely textured palate, quite weighty but balanced by a fine ripple of acidity; white peach, melon and a touch of grapefruit/lemon citrus on the finish. Only moderate complexity, but this is a wine that is as much about texture and mouthfeel as it is about flavour. Delicious, extremely enjoyable and excellent value for money.
Score: 17/20