2010 JEAN-MARC BURGAUD MORGON CÔTE DE PY - NEW WAVE BEAUJOLAIS

Jean-Marc Burgaud is one of a number of growers at the forefront of quality Beaujolais. For many years, Beaujolais, thanks in no small part to Beaujolais Nouveau, has been stereotyped as a fun but not particularly serious wine. However, over the past decade, the landscape has changed, thanks to a number of dedicated producers who have sought to maximize the potential of the Gamay grape and to express the terroirs of the ten crus of Beaujolais. The entrance of major players from Burgundy to the north, including the likes of leading merchant house Louis Jadot, has also played a part in ‘raising the bar’ in Beaujolais.

Burgaud’s Morgon Côte de Py is an assemblage, made from fruit sourced from several sites on the schist-rich hill that is the Côte de Py near the village of Morgon. The wine is a brooding example of Morgon, relatively deep in colour, with an inviting nose of cherry/damson and flint. Medium in body, there is considerable depth of fruit and tannic structure, suggesting that the wine has plenty to give.

Much is said of Gamay’s ability to ‘go Pinot’. In the Penguin’s experience, this is rarely the case. As we see better and better examples of Cru Beaujolais, it seems that they are expressing their own identity, distinct of both Burgundy and the Rhône.  Those looking for authentic, terroir-driven and food friendly wines with genuine character and ability to age should look no further.

2010 MORGON CÔTE DE PY
Producer: Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Beaujolais, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $36.99
Date tasted: 22 September 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Open nose of dark cherry and damsons, flinty/smoky mineral notes. Medium bodied, quite plush and sensual, starting to open up. The dark cherry/damson fruit flows through to the palate, which starts slightly sweet, but finishes with a pleasant sourness. The wine is framed by sandy tannins, which are largely masked by the fruit. Excellent length.
Score: 17+/20