2015 GLAETZER-DIXON UBERBLANC ‘GOLDPUNKT’ RIESLING - EXOTIC

If Australian Riesling is guilty of anything, it can come over as being a touch homogenous. This is particularly the case of Clare Valley Riesling, where lemon and lime citrus are clear markers of variety and place of origin. This is no bad thing, but it can leave one wanting for something a touch different.

Enter Tasmania, more particular Glaetzer-Dixon Uberblanc ‘Goldpunkt’ Riesling. This is Australian Riesling at its most exotic, a melange of tropical and citrus fruits, Earl Grey tea and Middle Eastern spices. Astutely judged residual sugar, cut by a line of rapier-like acid, adds to the equation.

There’s a lot to like about this exotic Riesling. Enjoy it on its own or with north African or Asian cuisine.

2015 GLAETZER-DIXON UBERBLANC ‘GOLDPUNKT’ RIESLING
Producer: Glaetzer-Dixon
Variety: Riesling
Region: Coal River Valley, Tasmania
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw-cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 24 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Very attractive nose of honey, tropical fruit, lime, Earl Grey tea leaves and exotic spice. Just off-dry, medium bodied, exotically flavoured palate cut by a fine line of acidity. Delicious and dangerously drinkable. Very different to mainland Australian Rieslings.
Score: 17+/20

2015 GUTHRIE ‘THE SNARE’ SYRAH - THE MODERN WAY

Australia produces Shiraz in a myriad of styles depending on the site, region and inclination of the winemaker. Over the past decade, the Adelaide Hills has established itself as a premium source of cool climate Shiraz, SC Pannell and Shaw & Smith being but two outstanding examples.

Guthrie ‘The Snare’ Syrah fits the mould of contemporary cool climate Australian Shiraz (or should we say Syrah) to a tee. Mid-weight in build, it is lithe and suave in feel, with silky black fruits, peppery spice and a hint of wet earth. The use of 40% whole bunches has amplified the spicy, meaty and savoury aspects of the wine.

All in all, there’s a lot to like about this wine, not the least being its sheer drinkability and compatibility with food.

2015 GUTHRIE ‘THE SNARE’ SYRAH
Producer: Guthrie
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 13.4%
Closure: Screw-cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 23 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Vivid crimson. Lifted nose of freshly ground black pepper, raspberry coulis and black cherry. Mid-weight, fine and unforced. Quite sensuous in texture – everything is in the right place. Black-fruited, peppery and svelte. Slightly earthy on the finish. Good quality modern Australian cool climate Shiraz – it’s not Rhone, but it’s far removed from traditional Barossa Valley Shiraz.
Score: 16.5/20

2005 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL - BLING BLING

Cristal - it’s bling. It’s expensive. Hey, it’s overpriced. It’s also a very good drink. 2005 was not a vintage for the ages in Champagne but Louis Roederer Cristal is a damned fine drink.

As an expensive luxury cuvee, Cristal has its detractors among the cognisceti. Even they would have to admit that the 2005 is a good wine. There’s a lot to like in this generously endowed, richly weighted wine. There is genuine class on display in the shape of exotically spice crème patissiere.

Although no bargain, this is a delicious Cristal drinking near or at the peak of its powers.

2005 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL
Producer: Louis Roederer
Variety: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $350.00
Date tasted: 10 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Silvery yellow. Fine persistent bead. Enticing nose of spice pear/apple and toasted brioche. Real weight and depth of flavour on the palate – crème patissiere, honey and baking spices. Perhaps not super complex, but lots of class on show. By no means a bargain, but top notch fizz. Good result from a so-so vintage.
Score: 18.5/20

2016 ROB HALL YARRA VALLEY PINOT NOIR - STRAIGHTJACKET FITS

Thanks to global warming, Pinot Noir in the Yarra Valley has become more site specific than ever before. Needless to say, there are many good examples of Yarra Pinot to be found, Mac Forbes, Coldstream Hills and Soumah being three reference point producers.

This particular example, from the relatively warm 2016 vintage, delivers just enough authentic Pinot Noir character. However, it does seem slightly high-toned and straight-jacketed. A bit aromatic lift and depth of flavour would do it no harm.

All in all, it’s a solid enough, but the truth is there are better examples to be found at $25-$30 per bottle.

2016 ROB HALL YARRA VALLEY PINOT NOIR
Producer: Rob Hall
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $26.00
Date tasted: 11 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright strawberry red. Slightly subdued nose of red fruits and tilled earth. Medium bodied, slightly high toned, quite ‘glossy’. It’s clearly Pinot Noir, but lacks a bit of breadth and depth. Solid enough, but no X factor here.
Score: 14.5/20

2004 SPINIFEX SHIRAZ VIOGNIER - SPLENDOUR IN THE GRASS?

Spinifex has deservedly established itself as one of the top producers in the Barossa Valley. This bottle, which was purchased on release, was opened with great anticipation.

Shiraz Viognier co-ferments and blends have somewhat of a mixed track record in Australia. Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier is a benchmark of cool climate Shiraz. Torbreck RunRig and its offspring, Descendant are proof positive that Viognier can work alongside Shiraz in warm climates such as the Barossa Valley.

This particular bottle of Spinifex Shiraz Viognier failed to fire. So dominant was the Viognier (even at a mere 5%) that it detracted from the wine. As is the case of mild cork taint or ‘scalping’ one could tell there was a good wine underneath, but the Viognier was simply so overt that it marred the drinking experience.

Something is clearly not quite right here. The wine has been stored impeccably throughout its life. Yes, it was sealed under cork, but there was not a trace of taint or oxidation. Has it been left too long? Or not long enough? We’ll put this one down to experience.

2004 SPINIFEX SHIRAZ VIOGNIER
Producer: Spinifex
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $60.00
Date tasted: 10 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Rich plum red. Still holding its fruit on the nose – though the Viognier component seems to really dominate – overt apricot blossom characters. Full bodied, soft and round on the palate. Although only 5% Viognier, the wine is overwhelmed by it to the point that it is disjointed. Not a good showing.
Score: 14/20

2016 DEVIATION ROAD GRUNER VELTLINER - ROCK ME AMADEUS

Austria’s Gruner Veltliner seems to have found a second home in the Adelaide Hills. Although plantings are relatively young as yet, the wines that have been released thus far indicate strong potential for the variety.

Some may argue ‘why bother?’, but the point is that Gruner Veltliner is a great grape with wonderful freshness that works very well on the dinner table. As such, it is a wonderful counterpoint to Riesling, countering Riesling’s citrusy freshness with a sprinkling of dill and twist of white pepper.

This example reinforces the potential of Gruner Veltliner in the Adelaide Hills. Gently aromatic and subtly flavoured, it possesses textbook varietal characters. The only (very minor) downside is up-front fruit sweetness, which detracts ever so slightly.

2016 DEVIATION ROAD GRUNER VELTLINER
Producer: Deviation Road
Variety: Gruner Veltliner
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 10 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Varietally correct nose of grapefruit pith, ground white pepper and pear. Medium bodied, moderate fruit intensity – greenish but certainly not under-ripe in feel. Decent length. All in all, a solid representation of Gruner, but touch of fruit sweetness (not residual sugar) is slightly off-putting.
Score: 16/20

2011 SAMUEL’S GORGE GRENACHE - DARK CHOCOLATE

Once again the much derided 2011 vintage has come up trumps. Samuel’s Gorge Grenache is by no means a shy and retiring little chap. Weighing in at 15% ABV, it is ripe, rich and full flavoured. Sealed under natural cork, it is in the drinking window and ready to go.

Dark fruited and with a seam of dark chocolate running through it, there’s a slightly old fashioned feel about this Grenache. That said, there’s plenty to like with this generously flavoured, amply proportioned McLaren Vale Grenache.

2011 SAMUEL’S GORGE GRENACHE
Producer: Samuel’s Gorge
Variety: Grenache
Region: McLaren Vale, South Australia
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 3 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Nose shows some evolution – dark berry fruit and tar, with hints of dry earth. Dry, full bodied, rich dark chocolate intermingled with dark cherries and roasted spice. Very solid result for the vintage. Well made Grenache in the darker, richer idiom.
Score: 16/20