2012 CRAWFORD RIVER CABERNET MERLOT - EASY LOVER

Henty-based Crawford River is the source of one of Australia’s best Rieslings. The estate has long produced a blend of Cabernet Sauvigon and Merlot. To some extent, it lives in the shadow of the exceptional Crawford River Riesling.

The 2012 Crawford River Cabernet Merlot, is a good, but not compelling wine. As one would expect given its cool climate origin, the wine is well composed, graceful and elegant. Although there are notes of pine resin and dusty herbs, the wine is by no means under-ripe.

All in all, this is a very sound wine; polite and easy to drink. It that sense, it serves its purpose. Those looking for an easy-going lunching Cabernet to enjoy with a Sunday roast could do a lot worse.

2012 CRAWFORD RIVER CABERNET MERLOT
Producer: Crawford River
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
Region: Henty, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 27 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Lifted nose of dusty herbs, blackcurrant and resin. Dry, medium bodied, very soft and supple, easy. Red fruits up-front, pencil shavings and pine resin. Gentle and polite. Ready to go.
Score: 15.5/20

2013 DOMINIO DEL UROGALLO PESICO TINTO - ROCK OF AGES

Nicolas Marcos is the man behind Dominio del Urogallo. Situated in the Asturias region near Spain’s Atlantic coast, this is a region like many in Spain that is being rediscovered. Although it is better known for cider production, it has a history of wine production dating back over 1,000 years.

Marcos brings to the table a wealth of experience including several years with Alain Graillot in the northern Rhone as well as his family bodega in Toro. The Cangas del Narcea sub-region in the Asturias couldn’t be more of a contrast to sun-drenched Toro, with its cool maritime climate and steep, rocky slopes.

A low intervention approach is used here, with no sulphur dioxide additions whatsoever. Pesico Tinto is a four-way blend of largely unfamiliar varieties (Carrasquin, Albarin Tinto, Verdejo Tinto, Albillo), though Verdejo Tinto is the same as Trousseau, of France’s Jura region.

The wine itself is alluringly aromatic, very floral and attractive. It is medium bodied, compact and fine, a panoply of red, black and blue fruits delivering a real sweet and sour character. In sum, it is a delicious and thought provoking wine. This is a region and a producer to follow with interest.

2013 DOMINIO DEL UROGALLO PESICO TINTO

Producer: Dominio del Urogallo
Variety: Carrasquin, Albarin Tinto, Verdejo Tinto, Albillo
Region: Asturias, Spain
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 26 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright crimson. Attractive floral nose – lilac, rose petal and violet, black cherry and plum. Dry, medium bodied, real ‘sweet and sour’ going on here – the overall impression is savoury. Red meets black fruits, sprinkle of white pepper. Good length with acidity carrying the finish. Ready to go. Delicious.
Score: 17/20

2013 MARC ISART ‘LA MALDICION’ - MY CURSE

Spain is arguably the most exciting wine producing country in the Old World at present.  Talented young vignerons are (re)discovering ancient vineyards in hitherto forgotten regions and bringing them back to life.

Marc Isart has been a fundamental player in the evolution of serious Garnacha from the Gredos mountains near Madrid.  He is the winemaker behind Madrid label Bernabeleva.  This wine is his solo side project.

'La Maldicion', a Tempranillo-heavy blend, sums up the new Spain to a tee.  It is a bright, juicy and hip--pocket friendly wine that simply wants to be drunk.  Co-fermentation of 85% Tempranillo with 15% Malvar, a white grape, has kept the wine very fresh and bright.

2015 MARC ISART ‘LA MALDICION’
Producer: Marc Isart
Variety: Tempranillo et al
Region: Madrid, Spain
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 25 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright crimson. Lifted nose – literally leaps out of the glass. Black cherry, dark plum and sarsaparilla. Very vibrant and lively. Bright and fresh. Dangerously drinkable. Red fruit meets black. The sort of wine that’s hard to say no to.
Score: 16/20

2015 OCCHIPINTI SP68 - HUMAN NATURE

Arianna Occhipinti is the niece of Giusto Occhipinti, the 'O' in leading Sicilian producer COS.  Like her uncle, she is based in Sicily's south-eastern corner.  Her wines reflect a non-interventionist approach.  The estate is certified organic and the wines are made with few, if any, additions.

If one wine has become the signature of Arianna Occhipinti, it is SP68, a blend of Frappato and Nero d'Avola.  This is not a dense or complex wine, it is snappy, sappy and vibrant, the sort of wine that makes you stand up to attention and raise a glass.  It is a wine with few pretensions, more fun than serious.  That is no bad thing.  It is a lovely 'drink me know' proposition that has found a legion of fans worldwide.

2015 OCCHIPINTI SP68
Producer: Agricola Occhipinti
Variety: Frappato, Nero d’Avola
Region: Sicily, Italy
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 19 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright purple. Lifted nose of morello cherry/bitter cherry. Direct and straightforward on the palate. Black/bitter cherry to the fore. Light, vibrant and fresh. Pleasantly sour!
Score: 16+/20

2004 SPINIFEX TABOR VINEYARD MATARO - BIG DADDY

Mataro aka Mourvedre is one of the Barossa Valley’s strong suits. Bottle age transforms Mataro, allowing its savoury personality to come to the fore. This particular example show cases some of the traits we associate with the variety.

Rich and full bodied, it is near full maturity. The primary fruit has receded, with savoury notes of dried earth and cocoa to the fore. It’s a good wine, but not quite in the class of Hewitson Old Garden Mourvedre.

2004 SPINIFEX TABOR VINEYARD MATARO
Producer: Spinifex
Variety: Mourvedre
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 26 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby with some visible signs of development on the rim. Quite shy and retiring on opening. With air, reveals freshly tilled earth, cocoa/chocolate and dark fruits. Full bodied, slightly syrupy in texture, savoury, cocoa/chocolate, dusty herbs, hint of morello cherry. Solid, but doesn’t quite deliver.
Score: 16/20

2012 YALUMBA THE SIGNATURE - SIGN YOUR NAME

‘The Signature’ is one of the stalwarts of Australian wine. A classical Australian ‘Claret’, it displays the harmony of Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. It is a traditionally inspired, full bodied, generous wine.

2012 was a smart vintage in the Barossa Valley, and much of the quality of the vintage comes thought in this wine. On this showing it is in desperate of need of further bottle age. Although not tight or overly tannic, it is a touch shy at the moment. Given the pedigree of the label and the quality of the vintage, it should be strutting its stuff with 6-8 more years in bottle.

2012 YALUMBA THE SIGNATURE
Producer: Yalumba
Variety: Shiraz Cabernet blends
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 20 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Bright nose of plum, cherry, cassis, woodsmoke, graphite, coconut and vanilla. Full bodied, red fruit meets black, the Cabernet coming through more with air. Tannins are super-fine, sitting very much behind the fruit. Solid, a good rendition of this classic label, but needing several years more in bottle to reveal its full potential.
Score: 16+/20

2015 KUMEU VILLAGE CHARDONNAY - SLAVE TO THE RIVER

Some would argue that Kumeu River is one of the best producers of Chardonnay outside of Burgundy, and with good reason. The 2015 vintage rendition of the estate’s entry level Village Chardonnay is a delicious example of modern Chardonnay.

Fresh, vibrant and savoury, it showcases pristine Chardonnay fruit and assured winemaking. Oak influence is minimal to the point of being imperceptible. You’d be hard pressed to find a better Chardonnay for the money anywhere.

2015 KUMEU VILLAGE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Kumeu River
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Auckland, New Zealand
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 18 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Attractive nose of green apple, lemon, grapefruit pith and white peach. Dry, medium bodied, fresh and breezy. The nose flows through to the palate which is stylish and vibrant. Negligible oak influence. High quality stuff and a relative bargain for the price. Delicious stuff.
Score: 17/20