22 February 2016

2013 MICHAEL HALL FLAXMAN’S VALLEY EDEN VALLEY SYRAH - AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD


Michael Hall’s career has taken him from watch valuer and auctioneer for Sotheby’s in Switzerland to artisan winemaker based on the Barossa Valley. If the 2013 vintage release of his Flaxman’s Valley Syrah is anything to go by, he has chosen the right career path. This single vineyard wine in an exceptional expression of Shiraz, at one floral, multi-faceted, tarry, spicy and complex. A long future lies ahead.

For those not familiar with expat-Englishman Michael Hall, his business model is very much that of footloose winemaker. Although he is based in the Barossa Valley floor, he sources fruit from the Barossa (Roussanne and Shiraz), Eden Valley (Syrah) and Adelaide Hills (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir).

Stylistically, his wines are clean and modern and sit and the ‘elegant and restrained’ end of the spectrum. Such is the case with Flaxman’s Valley Syrah, sourced from one of the highest elevation vineyards in the Eden Valley. As a follower of this wine for a number of years, and purchaser of the Rhone-styled 2011 release, the 2013 is very much a reflection of what was a relatively warm vintage; bold and exotic but cossetted within an elegant frame.

Leading critic Nick Stock is a fan, scoring the wine 98 points and rating it in his top 10 Australian releases of 2015. It is indeed an excellent release, though some degree of patience will be required, as there is plenty of structure.

2013 MICHAEL HALL FLAXMAN’S VALLEY EDEN VALLEY SYRAH
Producer: Michael Hall
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2013
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.1%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 13 February 2016

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson in appearance. Exotic nose of lilac, violet, lavender, forest fruits, tar and roasted spices. Medium bodied, dry and elegant. Tremendous depth and concentration with powdery tannins providing structure. An exceptional Shiraz that needs and will reward cellaring.
Score: 18/20

2012 DOMAINE LES HAUTES CANCES CAIRANNE COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES - NOTORIOUS B.I.G.


In some quarters, the red wines of the southern Rhone have been condemned for being simply too big and alcoholic. As one whom initially cut their teeth on the Grenache-based wines of the southern Rhone, there is still plenty to pleasure to be had from better made examples.

Cairanne is one of the leading villages in the southern Rhone and will shortly have appellation in its own right. No longer will the wines of Cairanne have to carry ‘Cotes du Rhone Villages’ on the label.

This particular example, from the solid 2012 vintage, oozes drinkability. Rich, ripe and full bodied, but well balanced, there is plenty of interest by way of spice and tar. Slightly rustic tannins on the finish suggest development potential of up to 5 years.

In sum, there’s a lot to like here at a relatively modest price. If you are looking for delicacy and finesse, look elsewhere, but for restrained power and sheer drinkability, it’s hard to beat.

2012 DOMAINE LES HAUTES CANCES CAIRANNE COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES
Producer: Domaine les Hautes Cances
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2012
Region: Southern Rhone, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 12 February 2016

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Brooding nose of roasted spice, liquorice, aniseed, tar and dusty Provencale herbs. Dry, full bodied, round suave tannins. Plump and plush, laden with liqueur cherries, tar and spice. Delicious and dangerously drinkable. Only downside is slightly chunky tannin on the finish. Now and next 3-4 years.
Score: 17/20