2013 BYRNE PINOT NOIR - BYRNE BABY BURN

Several months ago, we looked at the excellent Chardonnay from boutique Ballarat producer Byrne. Not surprisingly for a maker of quality Chardonnay, Byrne also fashions an ambitious Pinot Noir. On evidence of this 2013 vintage offering, Byrne Pinot Noir gets a tick. However, at this point in its evolution it isn’t quite as exciting as the Chardonnay (which is exceptionally good).

This wine possesses the aromatics and palate typical of a well crafted contemporary Australian Pinot Noir – a lively interplay of red fruits, tilled earth and lifted notes suggesting partial whole bunch fermentation. All in all, it’s a very well made wine that will have its fans.

2013 BYRNE PINOT NOIR
Producer: Byrne Wines
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2013
Region: Ballarat, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $38.00
Date tasted: 23 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby. Typical New World Pinot Noir nose of pomegranate, cherry, redcurrants, floral notes. Slightly stemmy. Dry, medium bodied, fruit driven – sweet and sour red berry fruit backed up by suggestions of tilled earth. Tannins are superfine to the point of being imperceptible. Well made modern Australian Pinot Noir that just lacks a slight ‘wow’ factor.
Score: 16/20

2012 JOHN GEHRIG RIESLING - KING OF THE MOUNTAIN

When we think about Australia’s great Riesling producing regions, the Clare and Eden Valleys roll of the tongue together Western Australia’s Great Southern region and Tasmania’s Tamar Valley. Henty and the Strathbogie Ranges also merit a mention thanks to the sterling work of Crawford River and Mac Forbes. The King Valley tends to fly under the radar.

There are some generally good Rieslings coming out of the King Valley, some of them very keenly priced (notably Chrismont). John Gehrig Riesling, from the 2012 vintage, is textbook Riesling. Quite forward in style, it possesses typical Australian Riesling citrus characters intermingled with green apple.

It is a direct, up-front style that will please those seeking immediacy of flavour and impact in lieu of austerity. Enjoy now and over the next few years.

2012 JOHN GEHRIG RIESLING
Producer: John Gehrig
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: King Valley, Victoria
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $26.00
Date tasted: 23 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Aromatic nose of green apple, crab apple and lemon blossom all of which are reflected on the palate. Quite expansive and fleshy – some noticeable development – not a long-term wine but very solid, with a good array of flavours. Delivers what one should expect from good Riesling.
Score: 16/20

2012 LE PARADOU GRENACHE - RUN TO PARADOU

Grenache is arguably the most important black grape variety for the arc that runs westward from the southern Rhone through north-eastern Spain. We generally tend to see Grenache or Garnacha as a component part in blends with the likes of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignan.

Le Paradou (which translates as 'paradise') is 100% Grenache, bottled as a Vin de France. It is a relatively simple, straightforward wine with pleasant red fruit. Strong pluses for the wine are its restraint, balance and savoury personality. It is a flexible dinner table drop, suited to a wide range of foods, from humble ‘bangers and mash’, Shepherd’s Pie to lightly spiced cuisine such as Moroccan tagines. It would also work very well with char-grilled foods; BBQ marinated lamb chops come to mind.

2012 LE PARADOU GRENACHE
Producer: Paradou Wines
Variety: Grenache
Vintage: 2012
Region: Languedoc, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 22 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Mid-garnet in appearance. Bright nose of raspberry, cherry, twist of white pepper, slightly meaty. Dry, medium bodied, red fruits to the fore. The overall impression is savoury. Harmonious and well balanced. Relatively simple and easy drinking, but displays admirable restraint.
Score: 15.5/20

2012 TENUTA ULISSE ‘UNICO’ MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO - CHOCOLATE CAKE

Montepulciano seems to be gaining in prominence on retailer’s shelves here in little Melbourne. And we’re not just talking Italian Montepulciano as there are a good number of smartly priced Australian-made examples these days.

This example, from Tenuta Ulisse, shows quite amount of extract and grunt. If one had to be critical, it comes over as slightly disjointed – dark chocolate and cherry are set against sturdy tannins and brisk acidity. From this imbiber’s standpoint it doesn’t quite hang together at this point in time, but perhaps additional bottle age will be the remedy. Here and now, one’s judgement is reserved.

2012 TENUTA ULISSE ‘UNICO’ MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO
Producer: Tenuta Ulisse
Variety: Montepulciano
Vintage: 2012
Region: Abruzzo, Italy
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 13 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Direct nose of dark chocolate, black cherry and woodsmoke. Slightly disjointed on the palate – chocolate, cherry, brisk acidity – lick of tannin carries the finish. Decent enough, but feels a bit contrived, and the component parts aren’t well integrated (at this point in time).
Score: 15/20

2013 CANTINA ZACCAGNINI MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO - BORN TO BE WILD

The 2012 vintage rendition of Cantina Zaccagnini’s attractively packaged Montepulciano was reviewed on these pages some time ago. The 2013 vintage release follows in a not dissimilar vein, albeit, at this point in time it is showing some of the precociousness of youth.

There is more up-front fruit on show with the 2013 release and it will perhaps benefit from a further several months in bottle to shed its puppy fat and allow a bot more complexity to come through. All in all, it’s a very solid Montepulciano, but not quite as enjoyable as the 2012 at this point in time.

2013 CANTINA ZACCAGNINI MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO
Producer: Cantina Zaccagnini
Variety: Montepulciano
Vintage: 2013
Region: Abruzzo, Italy
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 12 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby. Clean nose of dark cherry, plum, pepper and tar. Sweet fruited up-front, quite plush. Flavour profile reflects the nose. Dry tannins carry the finish, which is savoury and reasonably long. Solid, reliable and should benefit from another 12-18 months in bottle.
Score: 16/20

2008 BANNOCKBURN ‘SERRÉ’ PINOT NOIR - BED OF ROSES

From a vineyard planted in the 1980’s, Serré is Bannockburn Vineyards’ flagship wine. Befitting Bannockburn, it sees a good amount of whole bunch fermentation and use of stems, reflected in the wine’s colour, which is bricked at the rim.

Aromatically, however, it is all about florals, specifically lifted rose and lilac backed up by a touch of leather and spice. In the mouth it is medium bodied, dry and suave, subtle and still present tannins lending a gently sandy texture.

This is a wine that lives up to its billing. Although a ‘modest’ 12% ABV, it doesn’t lack for body or flavour. Seven years from vintage, it is starting to enter mid-development. That said, there is plenty of ballast for it to develop further in bottle for several years yet.

2008 BANNOCKBURN ‘SERRÉ’ PINOT NOIR
Producer: Bannockburn Vineyards
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Geelong, Victoria
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $100.00
Date tasted: 9 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright strawberry red, fading slightly at the rim. Lifted bouquet – floral (rose, lilac), red fruits and leather. Medium bodied, dry and savoury; sour cherry, cranberry, slightly earthy/truffle. Fine acidity carries the finish. Has sufficient depth to develop for a few more years yet. Use of stems is well judged.
Score: 17.5/20

NV EQUIPO NAVAZOS LA BOTA DE FINO 54 - EVERYONE'S A WINNER

We have looked at a number of Equipo Navazos releases on these pages and every single one has been a winner. Expensive they may be in the context of Sherry (which is massively undervalued as a category), they are relative bargains in their own right. They rank among some of the most complex and individualistic wines being released on the market today.

La Bota de Fino 54 is more than a run of the mill Fino; for one, the colour is deeper. Briny, saline ozone notes confirm that we are in Fino territory, but there are many other layers to this wine – grilled nuts, beeswax, acacia, orange zest and more……and more.

This is a wine that may not suit all tastes, and not everyone will ‘get’. For those happy to go along for the ride, the journey is more than worth it.

NV EQUIPO NAVAZOS LA BOTA DE FINO 54
Producer: Equipo Navazos
Variety: Sherry
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Jerez, Spain
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $75.00
Date tasted: 8 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Golden amber. Hugely complex nose of beeswax/creamed honey, acacia, ozone, orange zest, candied ginger. Dry, lots going on – too much to nail down on paper! Quite superb. A real mouthful. Deserves to be the centrepiece of a meal, not just an aperitif that is drunk and forgotten. Superb.
Score: 18.5+/20

2010 TENUTA COCCI GRIFONI ROSSO PICENO SUPERIORE - TWO HEARTS THAT BEAT AS ONE

We are not generally accustomed to seeing Montepulciano and Sangiovese blended together. In the appellation of Rosso Piceno, the two go hand in hand. This example from Cocci Grifoni, possesses wonderful ‘could only be Italian’ aromatics in the shape of cherry, violet, truffles and a touch of mocha/dark chocolate.

With 5 years post-vintage, it is an elegant and compact wine, tannins fully resolved and silken in texture. This is very much ‘in the slot’ for current drinking and is perfectly suited to rustic Italian cuisine.

2010 TENUTA COCCI GRIFONI ROSSO PICENO SUPERIORE
Producer: Tenuta Cocci Grifoni
Variety: Montepulciano, Sangiovese
Vintage: 2010
Region: Abbruzzo, Italy
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 5 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Complex nose of dark cherry, violet, mocha/chocolate, earth and old wood. Dry, medium bodied, quite elegant and gentle. Tannins are fully resolved – very much in the zone for current drinking. Soft, supple and compact. Palate doesn’t quite have the excitement of the nose, but interesting nonetheless. Good wine for the money.
Score: 16/20

2013 QUINTA DO CRASTO TINTO - REVIVAL

For centuries, Portugal’s Douro Valley has been synonomous with the famous fortified wines of Oporto, particularly Vintage and Tawny Port. However, times have changed and demand for sweet and fortified wines, once revered across Europe, is not what it once was.

The region’s producers have had to adapt and change with the times, or face the reality of a rapidly shrinking market. Dry red and, to a lesser extent white, wines have been the saviour of the Douro Valley.

The region has a wealth of indigenous varieties and boasts a unique terroir, both of which lend themselves to the production of high quality dry table wine. Quinta do Crasto was one of the leading wave of producers in the region fashioning quality dry wines and develop good export markets for its wine.

The 2013 Quinta do Crasto Douro Tinto, one of several red wines in the range, is very much a modern, Old World meets New expression of the Douro Valley. It is fruit forward, with juicy red berry fruit with some stemmy, savoury notes on the mid-palate. The wine lends itself to relatively early consumption and could just as well be drunk on its own as with appropriate food.

 
2013 QUINTA DO CRASTO DOURO TINTO
Producer: Quinta do Crasto
Variety: Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional
Vintage: 2013
Region: Douro Valley, Portugal
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 8 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Bold nose of raspberry jam and black cherries which both follow through on the palate. Fruit forward, moving to savoury in the mid-palate. Green peppercorns? Fine acidity carries the finish. Solid.
Score: 16/20

2012 KANONKOP KADETTE - KISS ME GOODNIGHT SERGEANT MAJOR

Cape blends are a distinctive style, unique to South Africa, with Pinotage at their core. As anyone acquainted with Pinotage will know, it its worst it can be vile; volatile, unpleasant tannins and with odd banana-like qualities. When its worst extremes are tempered, Pinotage can be rather pleasant, particularly when intelligently blended as in Kanonkop’s Kadette Cape blend.

Pinotage makes up just over 50% of this wine, the balance being filled by Bordeaux varietals. The result is a bright and savoury, harmonious wine that is delicious to drink. Tar and leather notes add genuine interest.

Given the breeding and proven pedigree of this wine, one could expect to pay $25 or thereabouts. At a mere $15 per bottle it is a dead set bargain. pice and tar follow. Quite classy and exceptionally good value for money.

2012 KANONKOP KADETTE
Producer: Kanonkop Estate
Variety: Cape Blend (Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Stellenbosch, South Africa
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $15.00
Date tasted: 7 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby in appearance. Engaging nose of tobacco leaf, plum, leather, slightly earthy. Medium bodied, sweet fruited up-front, leather, spice and tar follow. Quite classy and exceptionally good value for money.
Score: 16+/20

2014 TENUTA di TAVIGNANO VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE - BLACK STEEL

The author has long been a fan of Italian whites. Italy presents a compelling case as the world’s leading producer of premium white wines across. Verdicchio is one of its under-sung white grapes. We have already reviewed the excellent ‘Il Bacco’ from Fattoria Coroncino.

This wine, from Tenuta di Tavagnano, is a different expression of Verdicchio. It is steely and mineral, acidity providing its backbone and structure. There’s no lack of fruit, with lifted aromatics and wonderful depth of flavour on the palate.

In some ways this is a Chablis drinker’s Verdicchio – rapier-like in its cut. There’s plenty to like. Bring on the seafood!

2014 TENUTA di TAVIGNANO VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE
Producer: Tenuta di Tavignano
Variety: Verdicchio
Vintage: 2014
Region: Le Marche, Italy
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 30 July 2015

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery lemon. Intense perfumed nose of lemon flowers, citrus peel, Nashi pear and grapefruit pith. Dry, medium bodied, steely, real ‘cut and thrust’, lemon/grapefruit citrus, zippy and lively, crisp acidity. Good length. Made for seafood.
Score: 16/20

2013 LUCY MARGAUX ‘THE EDOURD’ PINOT NOIR - NATURAL BLUES

Lucy Margaux is one of a small number of so-called in ‘natural wine’ labels in Australia. What to expect of an Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir under this label? Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir can be a challenge at the best of times, the Hills perhaps being a touch too warm for this finicky variety.

In short, this is as good an Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir one has ever tasted. For those who may associate ‘natural wines’ with oxidised, volatile muck, have no fear, this wine is extremely well made and is as clean as a whistle.

Unmistakably New World in style, it delivers complex florals and forest fruit on the nose, reflected on the palate, which is mid-weight and well composed. This is a delicious Pinot Noir that simply says, “Drink me!” Amen to that.

2013 LUCY MARGAUX ‘THE EDOURD’ PINOT NOIR
Producer: Lucy Margaux
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2013
Region: Adelaide Hills
Alcohol: 13.2%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 2 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Pretty nose of lilac, rose petal, cranberry, redcurrant and plum. Dry, medium bodied, sweet fruited up-front quickly moving to savoury; sour cherry and cranberry. Delicious. Good palate weight but by no means heavy. Clean as a whistle.
Score: 17.5/20

2012 IL PIMINO PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA - SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

Primitivo performs well in the hot sun of Italy’s south. Based in Puglia, the heel of Italy, Primitivo di Manduria showcases the variety. As one would expect of a warm climate wine, it is high in alcobol, 15% in this instance. However, it is exceptionally well balance, showing no heat whatsoever.

While some examples of southern Italian Primitivo can deliver big up-front fruit and little else, ‘Il Pimono’ has real depth and interest. With air, the wine opens up to reveal spicy complexity behind baked cherry pie. This is an excellent reference point for Primitivo.

2012 IL PIMINO PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA
Producer: Il Pimino
Variety: Primitivo
Vintage: 2012
Region: Puglia, Italy
Alcohol: 15.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 31 July 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Attractive nose of baked cherry pie, tar, roasted spice – complex and inviting. Full bodied, round and supple. Delicious mouthful of cola/sarsaparilla underlined by spice. Generously flavoured and well balanced.
Score: 16.5+/20