2012 CHÂTEAU PEYBONHOMME-LES-TOURS ROUGE - HER NAME IS BIO...

Biodynamics is widely practised in some of France’s major wine region’s, particularly the Loire Valley and Alsace. Even in Champagne, small growers have shifted to biodynamic viticulture as an instrument toward quality improvement and terroir expression.

In the expanses of Bordeaux, biodynamically managed vineyards are a rarity. One prominent example, is high profile Château Pontet Canet in Pauillac. There a few chateau located in the lesser known appellations that have moved to biodynamics. One such property is Château Peybonhomme-Les-Tours in the Côtes de Blaye.

As is typical in this part of Bordeaux, Merlot is the dominant varietal in the mix.  While not über-complex, the 2012 vintage release is a highly authentic expression of red Bordeaux at an affordable pricetag. It displays good clarity of flavour and isn’t ‘dressed up’ with new oak, in an attempt to belie its relatively humble origin.

2012 CHÂTEAU PEYBONHOMME-LES-TOURS ROUGE
Variety: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec
Vintage: 2012
Region: Bordeaux, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $32.00
Date tasted: 7 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Typical nose of plum, cherry, tilled earth and truffle. Medium bodied, dry and savoury; mouthfilling plummy fruit leads the way, followed by earth and bay leaf. A lick of tannin carries the finish. Simple and straightforward, but pure, unfettered and true to its type.
Score: 16/20

2010 LA SPINETTA ‘CA’ DI PIAN’ BARBERA D’ASTI - DEEP

Many will know La Spinetta is one of Piedmont’s leading modernists. In addition to making one of, if not the, region’s best Moscato’s, it has carved out a reputation for producing high quality Barbera.

La Spinetta’s reputation with Barbera has been earned through the development of a house style, marked by ageing in new French oak barrels. ‘Ca’ di Pian’ Barbera d’Asti, from the excellent 2010 vintage, is La Spinetta to a tee. Deep crimson in appearance, it offers up intense aromas of black fruit married with smoky oak, reflected on the palate.

While the oak is to the fore here, it is undeniably high quality wood, and it sits comfortably with the dark, brambly fruit. Whether the result is authentic Barbera, is very much a question of debate and of personal preference. It is a good wine, very much of the modern idiom, regardless of personal bias.

2010 LA SPINETTA ‘CA’ DI PIAN’ BARBERA D’ASTI
Producer: La Spinetta
Variety: Barbera
Vintage: 2010
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Alcohol: 14.0%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 3 May 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson verging on opaque. Brooding nose of tar, smoky oak, dark plum and blackberry. Dry, full bodied, voluptuous and silky texture. Intense black fruit married with assertive but well integrated smoky oak. Clearly plenty of work has gone into this wine – modern and polished. The raw materials are obviously very good, and the final product is very polished, but is it immediately recognisable as Barbera? It is certainly one interpretation of Barbera.
Score: 16.5+/20

2013 COMANDO G ‘LA BRUJA AVERIA’ GARNACHA - LIVIN' LA VIDA LOCA!

Garnacha aka Grenache is only second to Tempranillo in terms of its importance to Spanish red wine. Whether as a blending component in Rioja or in the hillsides of Catalonia (Priorat, Monstant), or as a single varietal, Garnacha seems very home in the Spanish landscape.

Comando G is an exciting project, drawing on fruit from the Sierre Gredos in DO Madrid, that specialises in Garnacha. What makes the wines of Comando G interesting is that the fruit is grown at high elevation, up to 1,000 metres above sea level. Vine age sits at 50-80 years old.

Although this is a young project, conceived in 2008, it has access to exceptional raw materials. Allied with sensitive winemaking, the result is a very stylish expression of Garnacha. Some of the very top wines from Comando G possess almost Pinot Noir-like delicacy and floral aromatics.

‘La Bruja Averia’ is unquestionably Garnacha, with its powerful kirsch/strawberry fruit, up-front sweetness and warming alcohol. It is undeniably an exceptionally good representation of the variety, the match of similarly priced wines from the southern Rhone.

2013 COMANDO G ‘LA BRUJA AVERIA’ GARNACHA
Producer: Comando G
Variety: Grenache
Vintage: 2013
Region: Madrid, Spain
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 26 April 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Lifted and attractive nose of macerated red fruits (cherry, strawberry, plum), aniseed, floral notes. Dry, medium bodied, excellent fruit intensity, similar in profile to the nose. Lovely balance of sweet and savoury. Top quality Grenache! Just a hint of alcohol heat on the finish.
Score: 17/20

2012 TELLURIAN GSM - EASY

In Australia, we tend to think that Grenache-based blends are the preserve of the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. Yet there are some respectable offerings from central Victoria. This particular wine from Heathcoate’s Tellurian is a sound effort.

It displays the hallmarks of the GSM blend, a melange of sweet red fruits and spice. In the mouth it is soft, smooth and savoury. If a criticism is to be made against this wine, it is that it is rather too polite and genteel. One wouldn’t mind seeing a more expressive and flamboyant wine, that captures the essence of the style.

On the plus side, it is well balanced and easy drinking. On the negative, $30 is perhaps a wee bit much to ask given the relatively limited complexity and interest on show.

2012 TELLURIAN GSM
Producer: Tellurian
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2012
Region: Heathcote, Victoria
Alcohol: 14.4%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 1 May 2015

Tasting Note:
Mid-ruby in appearance. Slightly subdued nose. Touch of roasted spice, ground peppercorn, brambly fruit. Medium bodied, dry, round and easy. Becomes more savoury with air. Gentle. Ultimately, lacks genuine depth, intensity and interest. Well balanced and perfectly drinkable, but a bit too polite.
Score: 14.5/20