2012 SANTOLIN PINOT NOIR - LOOK WHO'S STALKING......

Santolin is a new name in Australian wine. 2012 was the first vintage for this Pinot Noir. Drawing on fruit sourced from the Thousand Candles vineyard, it showcases a la mode whole bunch fermentation.

Being bottled without filtration, the wine is slightly cloudy in appearance, not necessarily a bad thing for Pinot Noir. There is definite whole bunch character on both the nose and palate, lending a slightly (but not excessive or unpleasant) stemmy character and aromatic lift.

All said, it’s an attractive package; a delicate Pinot Noir that is light on its feet and pleasantly savoury. There’s not a huge amount of complexity at this point in time, but perhaps that will develop with a few years bottle age.

2012 PINOT NOIR
Producer: Santolin
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2010
Region: Yarra Valley
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 11 January 2013

Tasting Note:
Slightly cloudy in appearance. Mid-cherry red. Stalky, rhubarb, rosehip, cherry, strawberry, stems. Delicate, medium bodied, needs time to open up; dry and savoury. Cranberry, redcurrant. Moderate complexity but good drinkability.
Score: 16/20

2011 SIRO PACENTI ROSSO DI MONTALCINO - LOVE LIKE BLOOD

One could argue that the wines made around the medieval town of Montalcino in southern Tuscany represent the best of what can be achieved with the Sangiovese grape. This is reflected in pricing, with top examples of Brunello di Montalcino ranking among Italy’s most expensive wines.

For those seeking value and authenticity, Rosso di Montalcino is a good alternative. This particular wine, from respected Brunello producer, Siro Pacenti, is full bodied, fleshy and powerful. It possesses an attractive nose of red fruit, damson and hung meat, all of which are reflected on the palate. There’s a good lick of tannin here as well as Sangiovese’s hallmark acidity. It is a wine that can be enjoyed now, but will develop in bottle for 3-4 years. As with many Italian wines, it calls out for food; in this case something meaty and substantial would be ideal.

2011 ROSSO DI MONTALCINO
Producer: Siro Pacenti
Variety: Sangiovese
Vintage: 2011
Region: Tuscany, Italy
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $65.00
Date tasted: 13 December 2013

Tasting Note:
Mid-garnet, fading to the rim. Attractive nose of hung meat, damson, cherry and stewed rhubarb. Dry, savoury, medium bodied, plenty of extract – not a timid wine. Noticeable tannins on the finish – needs food. True to type.
Score: 16.5/20

2010 DOMAINE DES ESPIERS CÔTES DU RHÔNE - ALIVE AND KICKING

The Côtes du Rhône is one of France’s largest appellations. It is also highly variable in terms of quality. This particular wine, from small organic producer Domaine des Espiers, resides toward the upper end of the quality hierarchy.

The 2010 release, now fully mature, delivers an attractive bouquet of red fruits and white pepper lent complexity in the form of hung game and spice. The palate is supple, savoury and stylish. Although not particularly complex, this is a very satisfying Côtes du Rhône that delivers in terms of drinkability and value for money.

2010 CÔTES DU RHÔNE
Producer: Domaine des Espiers
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Southern Rhône, France
ABV: 14%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 5 January 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Attractive bouquet of damson, cherry liqueur, white pepper, hung game, lifted spice. Dry, savoury, medium bodied, quite meaty, damson fruit intermingled with roasted spices. Stylish if not particularly complex.
Score: 16/20

2012 BEST'S BIN 1 SHIRAZ - SIMPLY THE .......!!

Best’s 2012 Bin 1 Shiraz follows hot on the heels of the Jimmy Watson Trophy winning 2011 release. It manages to combine the best of Australian ripeness and northern Rhone elegance.

A distinct note of freshly cracked black pepper confirms that this is cool climate Shiraz. There is good depth on show here, and sufficient structure to suggest that the wine should improve with cellaring for at least a decade, perhaps longer.

Best’s Great Western is one of Australia’s vinous jewels, and the modestly priced Bin 1 Shiraz is a wine that most of us can afford.

2012 BIN 1 SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2012
Region: Great Western
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 1 January 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Brooding nose of cracked black pepper, cherry coulis, raspberry, smoked charcuterie. Dry, medium bodied and savoury, sandy fine grained tannins, wood smoke, bitter cherry, hung game. Can be enjoyed now, but shows plenty of promise for the future. Seemlessly marries the best of the Rhône and Australia.
Score: 17+/20

1989 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER ROUGE - (ALMOST) PERFECT!

Much is said and written of Bordeaux pricing in this day and age. It is fair to say that the greatest wines of Bordeaux have become pretty much the exclusive privy of the rich. To some extent that is a great pity, as a mature example of a fine red Bordeaux is a pleasure that should be experienced many, not just a privileged few.

This particular wine is the essence of what is special about Bordeaux. Although a modest 12% ABV it possesses considerable flavour, tremendous complexity and outstanding length. It seamlessly glides over and caresses the palate.

While this wasn’t a perfect bottle (perhaps ever so slightly oxidised), it was eminently drinkable. It will be interesting to see how more recent vintages of this wine and its peers develop in bottle.

1989 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER ROUGE
Producer: Domaine de Chevalier
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 1989
Region: Pessac-Leognan – Bordeaux, France
ABV: 12%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 27 December 2013

Tasting Note:
Evolved mid-garnet, bricking at the rim. Complex nose of leather, game, woodsmoke, fig, slightly acetic. Pleasant core of sweet plummy fruit, creamy texture, tannins completely resolved. Very elegant and stylish. Plenty of flesh on the bones even if not a completely perfect bottle. Delicious. Fully mature.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 CURLY FLAT PINOT NOIR - READY FOR TAKE-OFF.....

Macedon is undoubtedly one of the best regions on the Australian mainland for stylish examples of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Thanks to it’s elevation and southerly latitude, the region enjoys cool conditions ideal for the Burgundy varieties.

Curly Flat is one of the regions celebrated producers. The 2010 Curly Flat Chardonnay is a cracker, not a lean new wave Chardonnay, but a generously flavoured and structured wine lent complexity thanks to the judicious use of French oak.

The Pinot Noir from the same vintage doesn’t quite have the same pedigree, but it is a good wine nevertheless. The wine is most definitely varietal, with textbook notes of cherry, plum and lifted florals, but it doesn’t ignite. There’s plenty to like here, and a higher rating may well follow with a few more years in bottle.

2010 PINOT NOIR
Producer: Curly Flat
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2010
Region: Macedon Ranges
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 24 December 2013

Tasting Note:
Cherry red. Bright nose of cherry, plum, hint of subtle oak spice, floral notes. Dry, medium bodied, slightly sandy tannins, moderate fruit intensity. Good overall balance but doesn’t quite fire. ‘Nice’ rather than exciting. Perhaps needs a couple of years?
Score: 16/20