2013 THICK AS THIEVES PINOTAGE - SHOCKED!

We don’t often see Pinotage in Australia. Many would say, all the better. A crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, at its worst, Pinotage can exemplify all that’s is wrong with wine; volatile with disjointed tannins. Yes, there are good examples of Pinotage in South Africa, both as single varietals, and as ‘Cape blends’. However, it is true to say that Pinotage is rarely associated with fine wine.

Here we have Pinotage from the Upper Yarra Valley given a make-over by one of Australia’s more talented young winemakers, the man behind the ‘Thick as Thieves’ label. This is Pinotage with a difference, made like a Beaujolais using whole bunch fermentation. The resulting wine is elegant, stylish and very attractive. It captures some of the best aspects of the variety, but with more finesse than one would expect from many of the best South African examples. There’s a lot to like here. Bravo ‘Thick as Thieves’!

2013 PINOTAGE
Producer: Thick as Thieves
Variety: Pinotage
Vintage: 2013
Region: Yarra Valley
ABV: 13.7%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 30 November 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Interesting nose of rhubarb, cherry, cumin, bay leaf and aniseed. Dry, medium bodied and elegant. The bouquet is reflected on the palate which is fine and ‘pretty’. Elegant, stylish and genuinely interesting. Dangerously drinkable! Could give Pinotage a good name!!
Score: 17+/20

2008 SPINIFEX TAUREAU - CLOSE, BUT NO CIGAR.....

Spinifex Wines is deservedly recognised for producing some of the region’s finest southern French-inspired red wines. They are sensitively made wines that showcase Barossa Valley terroir. What about when Spinifex turns its hands to things Iberian, in this instance a Rioja inspired Tempranillo blend?

On the nose, the wine is true to style, with typical notes of cola and sarsaparilla. The palate is savoury and medium bodied, but doesn’t quite live up to the bouquet. There’s a fair bit to like here, and one cannot complain of a lack of ambition. All in all, it’s a good representation of the type, perhaps lacking a touch by way of complexity.

2008 TAUREAU
Producer: Spinifex Wines
Variety: Tempranillo et al
Vintage: 2008
Region: Barossa Valley
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 8 December 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Open nose of black cherry, cola/sarsaparilla, tobacco leaf and roasted spices. Dry, medium bodied, typical Tempranillo profile. Palate follows on from the nose. Elegant and stylish; fruit driven. Moderate complexity. Finishes with a touch of warming alcohol.
Score: 16/20

2012 CIRAMI LAGREIN - I WILL FOLLOW

We have previously seen the Cirami Montepulciano on these pages, a wine from South Australia’s warm Riverland region that over-delivers and promises considerable potential for the future. Cirami’s flirtation with Italian varietals continues with Lagrein, a grape that originates from Italy’s alpine north. How does the variety fair in the Riverland? On the nose, it displays considerable promise, rather complex and true to type. The initial promise doesn’t quite carry through on the palate which is rather straightforward and marked by powdery tannin.

Although not as successful as the Montepulciano, there is a lot to like about the work being done under the Cirami label. It is definitely one to follow over the next few years.

2012 LAGREIN
Producer: Cirami
Variety: Lagrein
Vintage: 2012
Region: Riverland
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 21 November 2013

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Inviting nose of morello cherry, cola, coconut and charcoal. Medium bodied, initially tight on the palate but opens up with air to reveal sour cherry. Noticeable powdery tannin. Quite simple. Perhaps needs a couple of years?
Score: 15/20

2012 ELDRIDGE ESTATE GAMAY - SO SOLID CRU

Eldridge Estate is one of the leading Mornington Peninsula producers. In addition to the typical Peninsula duo of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it also makes a Gamay, as well as a Burgundy-inspired Gamay and Pinot Noir blend, called PTG in homage to Bourgogne Passetoutgrains.

Gamay, the grape of Beaujolais isn’t seen very widely outside of its region of origin and the Loire Valley. This example (together with Beechworth’s Sorrenberg) suggests that there could be a good future for the variety in Australia’s cool climate regions.

The wine possesses a lovely bouquet of tilled earth, truffle and lilac. The palate is dry, savoury and elegant, a lick of cool tannin suggesting that there is upside cellaring potential. Anyone acquainted with the sturdier Beaujolais Crus (Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent come to mind) would find a lot to like here. This is a serious example of a much under-rated variety, in quality terms more than an equal to the growing number of ambitious wines from Beaujolais.

2012 GAMAY
Producer: Eldridge Estate
Variety: Gamay
Vintage: 2012
Region: Mornington Peninsula
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $38.00
Date tasted: 23 November 2013

Tasting Note:
Medium garnet. Intriguing nose of lilac, freshly tilled earth and truffle. Medium bodied, dry and savoury, earthy, red fruits, nice lick of tannin, bright balanced acidity. Serious Gamay! Top drawer material that is the match for any Cru Beaujolais.
Score: 17/20

2013 WILD DUCK CREEK 'LITTLE WHITE DUCK' VIOGNIER - IN YOUR FACE!

To some, Viognier can be a ‘take it or leave it’ variety. With its exotic apricot kernel character and relatively low acidity, food is most certainly a must. The best examples of Condrieu manage to walk the tightrope of flamboyant aromatics and finesse, as has Yalumba with it’s barrel fermented Virgilius Viognier.

What happens when David ‘Duck’ Anderson at Heathcote’s Wild Duck Creek plies his wares with Viognier? For the uninitiated, Wild Duck Creek has built a name for producing high octane yet immaculately balanced Heathcote Shiraz. Altough alcohol levels for ‘Duck Muck’ and the Reserve Shiraz often exceed 16%, rarely does one detect alcohol heat. At 15% ABV, Wild Duck Creek’s ‘Little White Duck’ Viognier is very much in the house style. Indeed, it’s bottled at 15% ABV with noticeable residual sugar; one wonders what it could have hit if fermented fully dry!

It should come as no surprises that ‘Little White Duck’ Viognier is not a shy and retiring chap. Viognier on steroids is an apt descriptor. Yet, with context, the wine works. As alluded to in the first paragraph, food is a must. In this instance, moderately spiced dishes from the sub-continent and northern Africa would be the perfect match.

2013 'LITTLE WHITE DUCK' VIOGNIER
Producer: Wild Duck Creek
Variety: Viognier
Vintage: 2013
Region: Heathcote
ABV: 15%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 23 November 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Bold nose of pineapple, apricot and peach, background spice. Off-dry, rich, thick and glycerolic. Flavour profile is much the same as the nose. Opulent and hedonistic. Not for the faint hearted!
Score: 16/20