23 October 2012

2010 LA LINEA TEMPRANILLO - THE GREAT LEAP FORWARD


There is sufficient evidence to suggest that the Spanish grape Tempranillo has a future in Australia. In its native Spain, it performs well in a number of sites and climates, in regions including Rioja, Navarra, Ribera del Duero and La Mancha. Better examples from Australia, such as those from Pondalowie Vineyards, capture the varietal essence of Tempranillo perfectly, combining plummy plumpness, with a savoury mid-palate and a lick of spice.

This effort from La Linea is bang on for varietal character; it is the sort of wine that is perfectly suited to the contemporary dinner table, be it with a Sunday roast, grilled meat straight off the barbecue and other dishes that suit our casual dining culture.

Made by Peter Leske, formerly of the Australian Wine Research Institute, with input from David le Mire MW, La Linea Tempranillo is sourced from two relatively cool sites in the Adelaide Hills. The wine sees maturation in seasoned oak barrels, allowing the fruit to take centre stage. In the glass, it is quintessential Tempranillo; plum, cherry, leather and tobacco vying for attention. There is a lot to like here, confirming the view that Tempranillo is a variety to look out for in the next decade.  

TEMPRANILLO 2010 
Producer: La Linea
Variety: Tempranillo et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 14%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $27.99
Date tasted: 21 October 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Clean nose of plum, aniseed and clove. Dry, full bodied, plush and velvet mouthfeel, initially fruit driven, dominated by plum, cherry and damson, quickly moving to savoury (fig, leather, tobacco) on the mid-palate. Spice adds lift on the finish, which is framed by fine powdery tannins. Enjoy now and over the next 3-4 years.
Score: 16+/20

19 October 2012

2004 CHATEAU MUSAR HOCHAR PERE ET FILS - LEBANON'S GIFT TO THE WORLD OF WINE


Chateau Musar stands as one of the world’s most famous wineries. Located in the sometimes war-ravaged Bekaa Valley, it has been producing distinctive and deservedly sought after wines for several decades.

Stylistically, Musar is somewhat idiosyncratic. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with southern French varieties including Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault, it is sometimes reminiscent of a southern Rhone. On others, it is a ringer for a quality Right Bank Bordeaux. Whatever the case, there is a distinctive ‘Musariness’ that distinguishes Chateau Musar from the rest of the wine world.

Hochar Pere et Fils, the second wine of Chateau Musar, is a good introduction to the label. While it doesn’t possess the depth or complexity of the ‘Grand Vin’, there is a definite Musar character, reflected in the slightly nutty nose and silky palate. It is a wine that is well matched to lightly spice cuisine – a Lamb Tagine would be perfect.  

2004 HOCHAR PERE ET FILS 
Producer: Chateau Musar
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2004
Region: Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $37.99
Date tasted: 13 October 2012

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Interesting nose of cherry, damson, leather, fig and grilled chestnuts. Dry, medium bodied, savoury, very silky in texture, cherry, plum and fig, cinnamon, ground nutmeg.
Score: 16/20

N.V. LA GOYA MANZANILLA - WHO NEEDS CHAMPAGNE?


Manzanilla and Fino are among the greatest aperitifs in the wine world. Few drinks have the ability to stimulate the palate as these great Sherries from the south of Spain. Matured under a film of yeast known as flor, the wines possess a salty edge. There are no better wines than Manzanilla or Fino to match with salty foods like olives and anchovies. In Jerez and Sanlucar de Barrameda, one is also likely to enjoy a chilled copita with fried fish, langoustines or Jamon Iberico.

La Goya is one of a number of well established Manzanilla labels. Notwithstanding its 15% ABV, it is ever so easy to drink, particularly on a hot summer’s day. It is bright, breezy, vibrant and refreshing, one of Spain’s gifts to the wine world.  While it may lack the punch and bracing saline freshness of the very best Manzanilla's such as Argueso's San Leon and the remarkable Sherries from Equipo Navazos, there's plenty to enjoy here. 

NV LA GOYA MANZANILLA 
Producer: Bodegas Delgado Zuleta
Variety: Fortified Wine - Sherry
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Sanlucar de Barrameda, Spain
ABV: 15%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $17.99
Date tasted: 6 October 2012

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery white. Fresh nose of sourdough, ozone, lemon zest. Dry, medium bodied, slightly salty on the palate, hints of sourdough/bakers yeast. A wine that stimulates the palate. Not as punchy as some Manzanillas, but one can't complain.
Score: 16/20

1 October 2012

2010 SWEETWATER SHIRAZ - QUINTESSENTIALLY HUNTER VALLEY

Former Tyrell’s chief red winemaker Andrew Thomas has built up a strong following for his outstanding portfolio of distinctive single vineyard Semillons and Shiraz. Many consider the Sweetwater Shiraz to be the standout Shiraz in terms of quality and value. The 2009 vintage is a superb example of Hunter Valley Shiraz, combining elegance and finesse, with a multi-layered palate and a panoply of flavours. Notwithstanding its immediate attractiveness, it possesses considerable underlying structure, guaranteeing a long future.

The 2010 follows in similar vein, just medium in body and elegantly composed. However, at this point in time, the tannins are somewhat more marked and assertive. There is excellent depth of fruit, but the wine doesn’t quite reveal the same complexity as the 2009, at least at this point in its evolution.

The 2010 Sweetwater Shiraz is a wine that will demand patience to allowr the tannins to resolve somewhat. While it might not be quite in the league of the brilliant 2009, it is a high quality and affordable example of Hunter Valley Shiraz.

2010 SWEETWATER SHIRAZ 
Producer: Andrew Thomas
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2010
Region: Hunter Valley, New South Wales
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $34.99
Date tasted: 28 September 2012

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby, but transparent at the core. Bright nose of boysenberry, damson, licorice and star anise. Medium bodied, quite glossy in texture, touch simpler on the palate than the nose with summer berry fruit to the fore. Tannins are chalky and quite assertive, becoming increasingly so over the course of the bottle.
Score: 16.5+/20

2011 MICHAEL HALL STONEWELL VALLEY ROUSSANNE - DELIVERS AGAIN

We have previously reviewed the 2010 vintage of Michael Hall’s Roussanne on these pages. The 2011 follows in a similar line, with an immediately complex and highly varietal bouquet and palate. It is an elegant yet full flavoured wine with notes of stonefruit and honeysuckle.

Once again, this bottle underlines just how well suited Roussanne is to Australia's warmer regions and how food friendly it can be. Kudos to Michael Hall for showcasing the Roussanne grape. One hopes that many others will follow.

2011 STONEWELL VALLEY ROUSSANNE
Producer: Michael Hall
Variety: Roussanne
Vintage: 2011
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.9%
Closure:
Screw cap
Retail Price: $32.99
Date tasted: 29 September 2012

Tasting Note:
Lemon yellow with golden glints. Inviting, varietal and immediately complex nose; melon, pear, fig, honeysuckle and mace. Dry, medium bodied, the nose flows through to the palate, together with toasted almond meal. Distinctive, varietal and very food friendly. Should develop in bottle for up to 5 years.
Score: 17.5/20