10 August 2017

2014 CHATEAU DE LASCAUX PIC ST LOUP ‘CARRA’ - DAYS OF WINE AND ROSES


We don’t see a huge number of Languedoc wines in the Australian market. On this evidence, it’s time for wine importers to find a few more like this stunner from Chateau de Lascaux.

This is a wine that enchants with its alluring and exotic florals – lilac, rose and violet – interwoven with red, purple and black fruits. There are wines that say ‘drink me’ from the first sip, and this is one such wine! No need to say much more here. Grab a bottle or two, give it a try and be won over.

2014 CHATEAU DE LASCAUX PIC ST LOUP ‘CARRA’
Producer: Chateau de Lascaux
Variety: Grenache et al
Region: Languedoc, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 5 August 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright crimson. Alluring nose of lilac, violet, raspberry, plum and boysenberry. Just a tad over medium bodied, very bright, brambly fruit, licorice and aniseed. Fine chocolatey tannins carry the finsh. Will improve over the short to medium term, but hard to resist now.
Score: 17/20

2016 VINEMIND RIESLING - MADE OF STONE


It can be easy to take Clare Valley Riesling for granted – moderately priced, fresh and bright, with typical lemon and lime citrus. Occasionally you come across a wine that stands out from the pack. Vinemind Riesling 2015 is one such wine.

This is Clare Valley Riesling to be sure, but what makes it different is its striking chalky minerality and bone dry yet not austere palate. There are more complex wines out there, but this little number is a winner thanks to its sheer drinkability and the fact that it is a bit different from the many Clare Rieslings that clamour for attention. Bravo!

2016 VINEMIND RIESLING
Producer: Vinemind
Variety: Riesling
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 5 August 2017

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery green. Open and attractive nose of crushed talc, minerals, white flowers, fresh green herbs and grapefruit pith. Bone dry, medium bodied, fine and well integrated acidity. Plenty of mineral drive. Easy to drink and with plenty of interest. More mineral than fruity. I like!
Score: 16.5++/20

2016 FLOTSAM & JETSAM 'STALWART' CINSAULT - RAY OF LIGHT


Old vine Cinsault from South Africa’s ‘of the moment’ Swartland region. Relatively low in alcohol, medium in body, lively acidity, bright and fresh – what’s not to like. This is a wine that is made for the modern drinker – light and bright, but not lacking for flavour.

Although this particular bottle was consumed in the middle of winter, it would make a perfect red wine for drinking in the summer months.

2016 FLOTSAM & JETSAM 'STALWART' CINSAULT
Producer: Flotsam & Jetsam
Variety: Grenache et al
Region: Swartland, South Africa
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 28 July 2017

Tasting Note:
Transparent strawberry red. Alluring nose of cherry blossom, strawberry and freshly tilled earth. Mid-weight, quite light in feel. Relatively high acidity. Gentle but juicy red fruits. Easy drinking – would make a good red for the summer months.
Score: 17+/20

2013 DOMINIO DEL UROGALLO ‘LA ZORRINA’ - SWEET & SOUR


The Asturia’s is a relatively cool region of northern Spain better known for cider than fine wine. A new generation of producers is leading a quiet revival in this little known region, focussing on indigenous grapes including the likes of Carrasquin and Albarin Tinto.

Nicolas Marcos is the man behind Dominio del Urogallo. Having trained under Alain Graillot in the northern Rhone and made wine in Toro, he saw his future in the Asturias. La Zorrina, a single vineyard wine, is the estate’s flagship.

Made from 55% Carrasquin blended with other local varieties, it sees 100% whole bunch fermentation in Asturian chestnut barrels, prior to being transferred to 228hl oak barrels for maturation. Vine age is up to 130 years, and the soil type is slate and quartz. No added sulphur dioxide is used.

As to the wine itself, raspberry and cherry lead the way. There is a slightly, though not off-putting acetic note. Pomegranate, ashphalt, freshly ground pepper and exotic florals lend complexity. Stylistically, there’s a hint of Pinot Noir and cool climate Syrah about this wine. The truth is, it has its own personality. There’s a lot to like here, for those prepared to try something a bit different.

2013 DOMINIO DEL UROGALLO ‘LA ZORRINA’
Producer: Dominio del Urogallo
Variety: Other Spanish red varietals
Region: Asturias, Spain
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $85.00
Date tasted: 30 July 2017

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Attractive nose – slightly floral (violet, lilac), hint of pepper, black cherry and pomegranate. Acetic notes. Medium bodied, elegant and pert, almost Pinot-like in feel. Sour red fruits, pomegranate and morello cherry. Quite high acidity. Delicious and well composed.
Score: 17+/20

1997 WENDOUREE SHIRAZ - DEBASER


Little needs to be said about Clare Valley winery. It is an Australian wine icon, producing powerfully charged, savoury wines that sit outside the Australian norm. Some use the descriptor ‘iron fist in a velvet glove’, which isn’t far from the mark. Powerful as Wendouree may be, its wines carry a sense of elegance at the same time.

Two decades from vintage, 1997 Wendouree Shiraz is near fully mature. This particular wine was initially rather reticent, but opened up with air. Although not particularly complex, it is elegantly composed, with attractive secondary earthy and ferrous notes. On this evidence, Wendouree 1997’s are well and truly good to go.

1997 WENDOUREE SHIRAZ
Producer: Wendouree
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Region: Clare Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.6%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 29 July 2017

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Takes at least an hour to open up – quite reticent initially. Earth, ferrous oxide, ashphalt, dark berry fruit comes through. A tad over medium bodied. Smooth and seamless – tannins fully resolved. Ferrous notes come through on the palate together with dry earth and black fruit. Can’t see this wine improving further. Very enjoyable if not super complex.
Score: 17/20

2005 CHATEAU CARONNE-STE-GEMME - UNDERDOG


Much has been said and written of the outstanding 2005 Bordeaux vintage. Unfortunately, the top wines of that year are still well off their drinking peal – patience will be required. With the neverending focus on the crus classes and their Right Bank equivalents, we often forget about the many hundreds of reliable, moderately priced wines from Bordeaux, wines that really delivered the goods in 2005.

Such is the case with Medoc property Chateau Caronne-Ste-Gemme. In magnum format, 2005 Chateau Caronne-Ste-Gemme is starting to come into its own. There’s primary fruit aplenty, but the tannins have all but fully resolved. Secondary complexity is starting to emerge in the shape of gravel, earth and tobacco.

This mightn’t be a life-changing wine, but it offers a lot in terms of digestibility and drinking enjoyment. What more can one ask, especially when the modest purchase price is taken into account?!

2005 CHATEAU CARONNE-STE-GEMME
Producer: Chateau Caronne-Ste-Gemme
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Region: Bordeaux, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 22 July 2017

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Starting to show some signs of maturity – red and black fruits, dusty gravel, earth, tobacco. Medium bodied, elegant and silky. Stereotypical semi-mature Bordeaux. Understated yet authoritative. Very drinkable.
Score: 16.5/20

2009 MASSENA ‘THE ELEVENTH HOUR’ SHIRAZ - TIME


Just shy of a decade from vintage and Massena ‘The Eleventh Hour’ Shiraz is well and truly in the slot for drinking. Gone is the puppy fat and sweet fruit of youth, more savoury notes coming to the fore, together with lifted florals and exotic spice.

Rich, full bodied and unashamedly Barossan in build, there is plenty to enjoy here. If you like Barossa Shiraz that is generously flavoured, but not over-burdened by excess wood or alcohol, this could be the wine for you.

2009 MASSENA ‘THE ELEVENTH HOUR’ SHIRAZ
Producer: Massena
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 15 July 2017

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Some noteable evolution. Kirsch, blackberry coulis, baked red earth, star anise. Full bodied, soft and pillowy. Exotic red fruits up-front. Savoury on the mid-palate, with spicy complexity carrying the finish. At its peak but will hold.
Score: 16.5/20

3 July 2017

2015 GLAETZER-DIXON UBERBLANC ‘GOLDPUNKT’ RIESLING - EXOTIC


If Australian Riesling is guilty of anything, it can come over as being a touch homogenous. This is particularly the case of Clare Valley Riesling, where lemon and lime citrus are clear markers of variety and place of origin. This is no bad thing, but it can leave one wanting for something a touch different.

Enter Tasmania, more particular Glaetzer-Dixon Uberblanc ‘Goldpunkt’ Riesling. This is Australian Riesling at its most exotic, a melange of tropical and citrus fruits, Earl Grey tea and Middle Eastern spices. Astutely judged residual sugar, cut by a line of rapier-like acid, adds to the equation.

There’s a lot to like about this exotic Riesling. Enjoy it on its own or with north African or Asian cuisine.

2015 GLAETZER-DIXON UBERBLANC ‘GOLDPUNKT’ RIESLING
Producer: Glaetzer-Dixon
Variety: Riesling
Region: Coal River Valley, Tasmania
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw-cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 24 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Very attractive nose of honey, tropical fruit, lime, Earl Grey tea leaves and exotic spice. Just off-dry, medium bodied, exotically flavoured palate cut by a fine line of acidity. Delicious and dangerously drinkable. Very different to mainland Australian Rieslings.
Score: 17+/20

2015 GUTHRIE ‘THE SNARE’ SYRAH - THE MODERN WAY

Australia produces Shiraz in a myriad of styles depending on the site, region and inclination of the winemaker. Over the past decade, the Adelaide Hills has established itself as a premium source of cool climate Shiraz, SC Pannell and Shaw & Smith being but two outstanding examples.

Guthrie ‘The Snare’ Syrah fits the mould of contemporary cool climate Australian Shiraz (or should we say Syrah) to a tee. Mid-weight in build, it is lithe and suave in feel, with silky black fruits, peppery spice and a hint of wet earth. The use of 40% whole bunches has amplified the spicy, meaty and savoury aspects of the wine.

All in all, there’s a lot to like about this wine, not the least being its sheer drinkability and compatibility with food.

2015 GUTHRIE ‘THE SNARE’ SYRAH
Producer: Guthrie
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 13.4%
Closure: Screw-cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 23 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Vivid crimson. Lifted nose of freshly ground black pepper, raspberry coulis and black cherry. Mid-weight, fine and unforced. Quite sensuous in texture – everything is in the right place. Black-fruited, peppery and svelte. Slightly earthy on the finish. Good quality modern Australian cool climate Shiraz – it’s not Rhone, but it’s far removed from traditional Barossa Valley Shiraz.
Score: 16.5/20

2005 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL - BLING BLING


Cristal - it’s bling. It’s expensive. Hey, it’s overpriced. It’s also a very good drink. 2005 was not a vintage for the ages in Champagne but Louis Roederer Cristal is a damned fine drink.

As an expensive luxury cuvee, Cristal has its detractors among the cognisceti. Even they would have to admit that the 2005 is a good wine. There’s a lot to like in this generously endowed, richly weighted wine. There is genuine class on display in the shape of exotically spice crème patissiere.

Although no bargain, this is a delicious Cristal drinking near or at the peak of its powers.

2005 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL
Producer: Louis Roederer
Variety: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $350.00
Date tasted: 10 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Silvery yellow. Fine persistent bead. Enticing nose of spice pear/apple and toasted brioche. Real weight and depth of flavour on the palate – crème patissiere, honey and baking spices. Perhaps not super complex, but lots of class on show. By no means a bargain, but top notch fizz. Good result from a so-so vintage.
Score: 18.5/20