MORE BIODYNAMIC MUSCADET

This is the second wine from biodynamic producer Domaine de l’Ecu that has been reviewed on these pages. This time, we’re looking at one of the domaine’s single terroir wines, ‘Expression de Granite’ (two other terroir specific wines are bottled).

There’s greater depth and breadth here than the ‘Cuvée Classique’, and a steely tension that makes it a compelling wine. This is Muscadet taken to another level. However, so good is the ‘Cuvée Classique’ that one can not rate this bottling that much higher than the less expensive wine.

Drunk on a Sunday afternoon, 2009 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine ‘Expression de Granite’ was a perfect foil for mouclade, a dish of mussels served in a creamy curry flavoured sauce, originating from La Rochelle. While freshly shucked oysters are the traditional match for Muscadet, this is a wine that can sit comfortably with any shellfish based dish.

2009 MUSCADET DE SÈVRE ET MAINE ‘EXPRESSION DE GRANITE’
Producer: Domaine de l’Ecu
Variety: Melon de Bourgogne
Vintage: 2009
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $42.99
Date tasted: 11 December 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery yellow with green tinges. Steely nose with suggestions of mica, wet stones, freshly squeezed lemons, greengage, ozone. Dry, at the lighter end of medium bodied. There’s a steely tension here, but the acidity doesn’t dominate; lemon zest, a saline note and stony minerality. Finishes long.
Score: 17.5+/20

DOMAINE DE L’ECU – MUSCADET ROCKS

When one thinks about the ‘sexiest’ appellations in the wine world, those that make the tongue drool with the mere mention of their name, it’s unlikely that Muscadet de Sevre et Maine would come to mind. Yet, in the hands of leading biodynamic producer Domaine de l’Ecu, Muscadet can be sexier than pretty much any wine, from anywhere.

When one approaches a Domaine de l’Ecu wine, one must through conventional wine parlance out of the window. Forget about citrus, stonefruit and berries. Forget about oak, spice and vanilla. Muscadet from Domaine de l’Ecu is not about fruit at all. It’s about ozone, the sensation of a wave crashing into rocks, iodine perhaps and yes, definitely a touch of sourdough bread.

Minerality is an overused term in the world of wine, often applied without great thought or understanding. Never could be a more appropriate time to talk minerality than with a bottle of Domaine de l’Ecu’s Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Cuvée Classique. This is a wine that is tastes like sucking on stones. It is a thoroughly individualistic wine that should be sought out at all costs.

2009 MUSCADET DE SEVRE ET MAINE CUVÉE CLASSIQUE
Producer: Domaine de l’Ecu
Variety: Melon de Bourgogne
Vintage: 2009
Region: Loire Valley, France
ABV: 12.0%
Price: $29.99
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 3 February 2012

Tasting Note:
Silvery white. Complex nose of ozone/sea spray, brine, iodine, sourdough bread and freshly squeezed lemons. Medium bodied, not fruit driven, but very mineral and intellectual: wet stones, crushed minerals, quite stony in texture as well. Excellent length. Although perhaps not for all folks, this is a wonderfully individual wine that dares to be different.
Score: 17.5/20