2015 DOMAINE HUDELOT-BAILLET BOURGOGNE ROUGE - NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

The wines of Burgundy have never been as sought after as they are at present. The result has been that the region’s greatest wines are pretty much unobtainable for mere mortals. The good news is that many of the region’s lesser known grower’s have upped their game, though they too are quickly being discovered.

Domaine Hudelot-Baillet is a case in point. A few years back this estate was relatively unknown. However, the current generation has improved quality markedly. The domaine’s entry level Bourgogne Rouge, from the excellent 2015 vintage, is a delicious bottle of red Burgundy.

The practise at Hudelot-Baillet is to destem 100%, reflected in a wine that is pure, linear and laden with red, purple and black fruits. Modern in feel, but far from overblown, it is delivering plenty of pleasure now, but should develop well in bottle for several years.

2015 DOMAINE HUDELOT-BAILLET BOURGOGNE ROUGE
Producer: Domaine Hudelot-Baillet
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Burgundy, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $70.00
Date tasted: 26 December 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright plum red. Alluring nose of black and red fruits, hints of freshly tilled earth, Medium bodied, dry, very elegant and pure. Silkily textured – fine and seamless. Good fruit concentration in the red, purple and black fruit realm. Quite modern in feel. Good line and length. Delicious and very moreish.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 DOMAINE BLAIN-GAGNARD CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET ROUGE 1ER CRU CLOS ST JEAN - THE OTHER WOMAN

Better known for its white wines, the village of Chassagne-Montrachet is also the source of very good red Burgundy, particularly from the likes of Domaine Ramonet. This particular example, from leading grower Domaine Blain-Gagnard, is an honest, relatively uncomplicated red Burgundy that is in the slot for current drinking.

It offers up typical notes of red fruits, earth and spice in an attractive, silky package. It is drinking well now and should develop secondary complexity over the next few years.

2012 DOMAINE BLAIN-GAGNARD CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET ROUGE 1er CRU CLOS ST JEAN
Producer: Domaine Blain-Gagnard
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Burgundy, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 7 January 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet in appearance. Attractive nose of earth, truffle and strawberry. Mid-weight in feel, tannins fully resolved. Very polite, gentle and easy – pretty and pert. Simple delicate red fruits intermingled with earth and spice. Good, affordable easy-drinking red Burgundy.
Score: 16/20

2016 JOSHUA COOPER DOUG’S VINEYARD PINOT NOIR - I CAN SEE CLEARLY NOW

Pinot Noir has come a long way in Australia over the past quarter century. The maturity of cool climate vineyards in Victoria and Tasmania and heightened interest in the variety has contributed to a quantum leap in quality.

The Macedon Ranges region is without a doubt one of the great places in the new world to grow Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay). Bindi and Curly Flat are evidence of the quality Macedon is capable of producing.

On the evidence of this bottle, Joshua Cooper is a name that must be added to the leading vanguard of Australian Pinot Noir producers. This is sophisticated Pinot Noir with a real edge. Thanks to the use of over 80% whole bunches, there’s a real sense of sappiness to the wine. Sweet fruit is downplayed in favour of tilled earth, truffle and sour cherry. This is a label to watch.

2016 JOSHUA COOPER DOUG’S VINEYARD PINOT NOIR
Producer: Joshua Cooper
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Macedon Ranges, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $55.00
Date tasted: 7 October 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby – slightly cloudy in appearance - presumably unfiltered. Attractive perfumed nose of pomegranate, morello cherry, lilac, rose petal and freshly tilled earth. Dry, medium bodied, sour morello cherry fruit up-front. The impression here is very much savoury. A model of restraint. Lively acidity carries the finish.
Score: 18/20

2015 MILLTON VINEYARD ‘LA COTE’ PINOT NOIR - JE T'AIME

Established in 1984, Milton Vineyard is a veteran of the Gisborne region. The vineyard is certified organic and biodynamic. There’s a real European sensibility apparent here, from the name of the wine ‘La Cote’ through to the wine itself.

Some New Zealand Pinot Noirs, particularly those from Central Otago, can be guilty of being over-fruited. Milton ‘La Cote’ Pinot Noir sits outside of the New Zealand Pinot Noir norm, and is all the better for it. This is a wine with a savoury sensibility – dry and earthy, it shares more in common with good red Burgundy than the plethora of sweet-fruited Kiwi Pinots.

There is plernty to like here for those looking for a element of sophistication in their Pinot Noir. Drinkers accustomed to easy, fruit forward Pinot might find they need a glass or two to warm to its sterner savoury personality, but engagement will be rewarded. This is high quality Pinot Noir and reasonably priced to boot.

2015 MILLTON VINEYARD ‘LA COTE’ PINOT NOIR
Producer: Milton Vineyards
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Gisborne, New Zealand
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 12 September 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Alluring nose of freshly tilled earth, truffle, black cherry and subtle oak spice. Medium bodied, pert and savoury. Dry, earthy palate, filled out by suggestions of spice and red fruits. Serious stuff, for what it is. A good drink – food style.
Score: 16.5/20

2016 ROB HALL YARRA VALLEY PINOT NOIR - STRAIGHTJACKET FITS

Thanks to global warming, Pinot Noir in the Yarra Valley has become more site specific than ever before. Needless to say, there are many good examples of Yarra Pinot to be found, Mac Forbes, Coldstream Hills and Soumah being three reference point producers.

This particular example, from the relatively warm 2016 vintage, delivers just enough authentic Pinot Noir character. However, it does seem slightly high-toned and straight-jacketed. A bit aromatic lift and depth of flavour would do it no harm.

All in all, it’s a solid enough, but the truth is there are better examples to be found at $25-$30 per bottle.

2016 ROB HALL YARRA VALLEY PINOT NOIR
Producer: Rob Hall
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $26.00
Date tasted: 11 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright strawberry red. Slightly subdued nose of red fruits and tilled earth. Medium bodied, slightly high toned, quite ‘glossy’. It’s clearly Pinot Noir, but lacks a bit of breadth and depth. Solid enough, but no X factor here.
Score: 14.5/20

2013 CLARENCE HOUSE ESTATE PINOT NOIR - PERFECT!

This imbiber was particularly taken by the Pinot Blanc from Clarence House Estate a couple of days back. The good news is that the estate’s Pinot Noir is of similarly high quality. This is a wine that is very confident – there’s clever winemaking going on here, not in ‘tricking things up’ way, but in a self-assured way.

There is an excellent sense of harmony about this wine. It is compact, elegant and more savoury than many Australian Pinot Noirs. There is also a decent amount of structure by way of fine powdery tannin. All in all, there’s a lot to like about this stylish, elegantly composed Pinot Noir, not least of all its affordable price-tag.

2013 CLARENCE HOUSE ESTATE PINOT NOIR
Producer: Clarence House Estate

Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Coal River Valley, Tasmania
ABV: 13.7%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $32.00
Date tasted: 4 February 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Attractive nose of pomegranate, morello cherry, freshly tilled earth and truffle. Dry, medium bodied. Very elegant, well judged extract – neat and compact. Still quite young – plenty of powdery tannin sitting behind the fruit. More savoury than many Australian and New Zealand Pinot Noirs. Should age well. Excellent value for money.
Score: 16.5+/20

2015 BK WINES ‘SKIN ‘N’ BONES’ PINOT NOIR - SOUR CHERRY

Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir can, at times, being guilty of being ‘big boned’, just a bit too clunky for its own good. This example, from BK Wines takes a different tack. It’s a funky, unfiltered style that seems happy to stand out from the crowd.

Being unfiltered, it’s slightly cloudy in appearance. Aromatically and on the palate, it’s all about sour red fruits. Stylistically, it works, though it mightn’t appeal to all Pinotphiles. It’s hard to know how this one will develop in bottle. One suspects it is probably best enjoyed in the flourish of youth.

2015 BK WINES ‘SKIN ‘N’ BONES’ PINOT NOIR
Producer: BK Wines
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 14 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Cloudy cherry red in appearance – obviously unfiltered. Bright nose of rhubarb, pomegranate, sour cherry and rose petal/lilac florals. The nose flows through to the palate which has a pleasant sourness. Quite light, bright and fresh by Lenswood Pinot Noir standards. Probably best enjoyed while young. Hard to know how this will develop in bottle.
Score: 16/20

2010 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN VILLAGES by OLIVIER BERNSTEIN - PATIENCE

In less than a decade, Olivier Bernstein as establish himself as one of Burgundy’s leading micro-negociants. His wines are characterised by the sheen of new oak and pristine fruit picked at full ripeness. Cheap they are not, but it is fair to say that quality shines through the Bernstein portfolio.

His village level Gevrey Chambertin, from the 2010 vintage is a precocious youngster. It has shed some of the puppy fat of youth, but is in a transitory phase from youth to adolescence. It displays a complex array of red fruits, but remains tightly coiled, sinewy tannins asserting themselves. There is quality here, but this is a wine needing another 5 years in bottle to strut its stuff.

2010 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN VILLAGES by OLIVIER BERNSTEIN
Producer: Maison Oliver Bernstein
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2010
Region: Burgundy, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $100.00
Date tasted: 24 December 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Attractive nose of cherry, pomegranate and redcurrant, spicy oak. Dry, medium bodied, quite tightly coiled. Sour red fruits follow through from the nose, but you get the sense the wine is holding back a bit at present. Leave for 4-5 years.
Score: 16.5+/20

2013 KELVEDON ESTATE PINOT NOIR - HIGH FIDELITY

Kelvedon Estate is a small Swansea-based vineyard producing small volumes of estate-bottled Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. Most of its fruit is contracted, with all of the Chardonnay fruit sold to the House of Arras, and Pinot Noir sold under contract to Bay of Fires.

With demand from prestigious premium labels, it is no surprise that the estate wines are pretty classy. Kelvedon Estate Pinot Noir is a very impressive modern Australian Pinot Noir, with a relatively modest price-tag.

There is real quality to be had here, with depth and structure that should support medium term cellaring.

2013 KELVEDON ESTATE PINOT NOIR
Producer: Kelvedon Estate
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2013
Region: East Coast, Tasmania
ABV: 13.9%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 19 December 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby. Clean nose of cherry, plum and smoky oak. Dry, initially fruit-driven but with good structure, depth of flavour and balancing acidity. Cherry, plum, raspberry and pomegranate interwoven with spicy oak. Impressive intensity and length. Has the structure to develop well in bottle.
Score: 17/20

2013 BYRNE PINOT NOIR - BYRNE BABY BURN

Several months ago, we looked at the excellent Chardonnay from boutique Ballarat producer Byrne. Not surprisingly for a maker of quality Chardonnay, Byrne also fashions an ambitious Pinot Noir. On evidence of this 2013 vintage offering, Byrne Pinot Noir gets a tick. However, at this point in its evolution it isn’t quite as exciting as the Chardonnay (which is exceptionally good).

This wine possesses the aromatics and palate typical of a well crafted contemporary Australian Pinot Noir – a lively interplay of red fruits, tilled earth and lifted notes suggesting partial whole bunch fermentation. All in all, it’s a very well made wine that will have its fans.

2013 BYRNE PINOT NOIR
Producer: Byrne Wines
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2013
Region: Ballarat, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $38.00
Date tasted: 23 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby. Typical New World Pinot Noir nose of pomegranate, cherry, redcurrants, floral notes. Slightly stemmy. Dry, medium bodied, fruit driven – sweet and sour red berry fruit backed up by suggestions of tilled earth. Tannins are superfine to the point of being imperceptible. Well made modern Australian Pinot Noir that just lacks a slight ‘wow’ factor.
Score: 16/20

2008 BANNOCKBURN ‘SERRÉ’ PINOT NOIR - BED OF ROSES

From a vineyard planted in the 1980’s, Serré is Bannockburn Vineyards’ flagship wine. Befitting Bannockburn, it sees a good amount of whole bunch fermentation and use of stems, reflected in the wine’s colour, which is bricked at the rim.

Aromatically, however, it is all about florals, specifically lifted rose and lilac backed up by a touch of leather and spice. In the mouth it is medium bodied, dry and suave, subtle and still present tannins lending a gently sandy texture.

This is a wine that lives up to its billing. Although a ‘modest’ 12% ABV, it doesn’t lack for body or flavour. Seven years from vintage, it is starting to enter mid-development. That said, there is plenty of ballast for it to develop further in bottle for several years yet.

2008 BANNOCKBURN ‘SERRÉ’ PINOT NOIR
Producer: Bannockburn Vineyards
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Geelong, Victoria
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $100.00
Date tasted: 9 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright strawberry red, fading slightly at the rim. Lifted bouquet – floral (rose, lilac), red fruits and leather. Medium bodied, dry and savoury; sour cherry, cranberry, slightly earthy/truffle. Fine acidity carries the finish. Has sufficient depth to develop for a few more years yet. Use of stems is well judged.
Score: 17.5/20

2013 LUCY MARGAUX ‘THE EDOURD’ PINOT NOIR - NATURAL BLUES

Lucy Margaux is one of a small number of so-called in ‘natural wine’ labels in Australia. What to expect of an Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir under this label? Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir can be a challenge at the best of times, the Hills perhaps being a touch too warm for this finicky variety.

In short, this is as good an Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir one has ever tasted. For those who may associate ‘natural wines’ with oxidised, volatile muck, have no fear, this wine is extremely well made and is as clean as a whistle.

Unmistakably New World in style, it delivers complex florals and forest fruit on the nose, reflected on the palate, which is mid-weight and well composed. This is a delicious Pinot Noir that simply says, “Drink me!” Amen to that.

2013 LUCY MARGAUX ‘THE EDOURD’ PINOT NOIR
Producer: Lucy Margaux
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2013
Region: Adelaide Hills
Alcohol: 13.2%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 2 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright garnet. Pretty nose of lilac, rose petal, cranberry, redcurrant and plum. Dry, medium bodied, sweet fruited up-front quickly moving to savoury; sour cherry and cranberry. Delicious. Good palate weight but by no means heavy. Clean as a whistle.
Score: 17.5/20

2014 GARAGISTE ‘LE STAGIAIRE’ PINOT NOIR - MASTER'S APPRENTICE

Garagiste is an interesting boutique Mornington Peninsula producer. It doesn’t own any vineyard per se, but manages a number of sites from which it produces single vineyard expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

‘Le Stagiaire’ sits below the single site wines in the Garagiste range – a Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are made. The 2014 vintage rendition of Garagiste ‘Le Stagiaire’ Pinot Noir is right out of the box. At the weightier end of the Mornington Peninsula spectrum, it delivers a lovely balance of elegant red berry fruit, floral aromatics and whole bunch-derived complexity.

There’s a lot to like here, particularly given the wine’s affordable pricing. Although drinking well now, it should develop in bottle for 3-4 years, possibly longer.

2014 GARAGISTE ‘LE STAGIAIRE’ PINOT NOIR
Producer: Garagiste
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2014
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 19 June 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Open nose of cherry stone/strawberry/raspberry, lifted florals (lilac, rose). Mulch/stems and tilled earth. Medium bodied, dry and savoury, fruit profile is in the sour cherry/pomegranate realm. Earthy complexity. Lovely texture and palate weight.
Score: 16.5/20

2013 MAMMOTH PINOT NOIR - WALK THE DINOSAUR....

After a very successful stint as chief winemaker at Geelong’s Bannockburn Vineyards, Michael Glover returned to his native New Zealand to make wine under a new label, Mammoth, in Nelson. The first Pinot Noir release under the Mammoth label shows good promise for the future.

Glover has employed some of the tricks he used at Bannockburn Vineyards in making this wine, particularly the use of whole bunches, 100% in this instance. Yet this is a very different wine to a Bannockburn Vineyards Pinot Noir. While Bannockburn Pinot Noir can be very earthbound and ‘mulchy’, even in its youth, 2013 Mammoth Pinot Noir is exotically perfumed – florals abound – and there is a burst of fruit – plum and cherry to be specific.

No-one would confuse 2013 Mammoth Pinot Noir with red Burgundy, but it is unmistakably Pinot Noir. Those seeking classicism might quibble, but there’s a lot about this wine to admire, not the least the quality of the raw materials, which have lent themselves to Glover’s winemaking philosophy.

2013 MAMMOTH PINOT NOIR
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2013
Region: Nelson, New Zealand
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $70.00
Date tasted: 22 May 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby in appearance. Attractive perfumed nose of saturated black and red fruits, truffle and lifted florals (lilac, rose) – textbook Pinot Noir. Medium bodied, svelte and satin-like – real polish and sheen. The palate follows up the nose. Quite a bit of mass, but not heavy or clunky. Fine powdery tannins suggest potential to develop over the medium term. The only concern is a touch of warming alcohol on the finish. Unmistakably New World, but good quality Pinot Noir.
Score: 17/20

2012 BROWN MAGPIE PINOT NOIR - A GENEROUS HEART

Pinot Noir in Australia has come a long way in the past 20 or so years. The emergence of cool climate viticultural has seen this capricious variety emerge to produce wines of genuine finesse and delicacy. That said, even Australia’s coolest regions are warmer than the continental climate experienced in Burgundy.

In Australia, the best Pinot Noir producing regions tend to either be coastal (Mornington Peninsula, Bellarine Peninsula) or at elevation (Macedon Ranges). In this context, Geelong can be rather marginal. Notwithstanding the fact that Geelong is home to two of Australia’s finest Pinot Noir producers (Bannockburn and By Farr), it can tend toward a slightly big-boned expression of the variety.

Brown Magpie is a relatively new label from the Geelong region. Its Pinot Noir from the excellent 2012 growing season is literally bursting with fruit. Burgundy it is most definitely not, neither is it trying to be. This is a full flavoured, warm hearted Pinot Noir for those who like their wines full and cuddly. While it didn’t quite strike a chord with this imbiber, many would enjoy its friendly fruit forward character and lack of pretention.

2012 BROWN MAGPIE PINOT NOIR
Producer: Brown Magpie
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2012
Region: Geelong, Victoria
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 11 December 2014

Tasting Note:
Mid-ruby in appearance. Bright nose of strawberry coulis, five spice, dried herbs, slightly gamey. Sweet fruited up-front, soft tannins, fruit and meaty, quite easy going in style. Not particularly complex or long, but solid.
Score: 15/20

2011 BINDI COMPOSITION PINOT NOIR - HERE COMES THE RAIN AGAIN

Much has been said and written of the cool and damp 2011 vintage in southern Australia, very little of it positive. Many of the nation’s wine writers were quick to write off the vintage as a disaster, often before the wines had a sufficient time to settle down and fill out in bottle.

It is fair to say that in many parts of Victoria, 2011 was not just good but excellent to outstanding for Chardonnay. The words ‘best ever’ were heard more than once. Red varieties were more of a challenge; patience, diligence and strict fruit selection being the order of the day. In the case of cool climate Pinot Noir from 2011, better examples are bright-fruited, relatively light on their feet, savoury and quite Burgundy-like (if not necessarily aspiring for greatness). It is fair to say that very few are likely to make old bones.

Bindi’s Composition Pinot Noir 2011 is in equal parts reflective of the 2011 vintage and Bindi’s status as one of the nation’s finest Pinot Noir producers. While not overly concentrated, it is well structured and has upside for further improvement in bottle over the next couple of years. All in all, it’s a good example of Macedon Ranges Pinot Noir, albeit presently lacking that je ne sais quoi that some drinkers of Pinot Noir seek out.

2011 BINDI COMPOSITION PINOT NOIR
Producer: Bindi
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2011
Region: Macedon Ranges, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Diam
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 22 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Pale cherry red. Open nose of redcurrant, strawberry compote and rosehip. Dry, medium bodied, elegant and savoury, very ‘pretty’. Moderate fruit intensity. Simple and direct at this point in time, but delivers plenty of pleasure. Should improve with a further 2-3 years cellaring.
Score: 16+/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART TWO - DOMAINE WEINBACH

Domaine Weinbach, owned by the Faller family, is one of the great names in Alsace. Situated at the entry to the village of Kaysersberg with the imposing walled Clos des Capucins, the estate draws on fruit from the clos, as well as the nearby Grand Crus of Schlossberg, Furstentum and Mambourg, all of which are farmed biodynamically.

The domaine was recently rocked by the untimely and premature passing of Catherine Faller, one of two sisters who had for many years taken responsibility for day-to-day operations. As one of the world’s great female winemakers, her loss has been felt across the wine world.

As is the case with many Alsatian domaines, the range here is extensive, encompassing a wide range of varietals, sites and ripeness/sugar levels. On evidence of wines tasted at the domaine, and other wines enjoyed while in the region, quality is high across the board.

For this particular imbiber, the real stars of the show is the sweeter wines (the 2012 Gewürtztraminer Mambourg Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives and the 2010 Pinot Gris Cuvée d’Or Quintessence de Grain Nobles are both stunning wines). They combine a rich lusciousness with remarkable complexity and incredible finesse.

Gewürtztraminer has long been regarded a forté of Domaine Weinbach, reinforced the wines tasted at this visit. In the hands of Weinbach, Gewürtztraminer transcends the stereotype of rose petal and lychee, with stonefruit and baked apple also thrown into the mix – a variety that can be enjoyable, but rather tiring is transformed into a multi-faceted and compelling one at this address.

In sum, the wines of Domaine Weinbach serve to justify its lofty position in France’s wine consciousness. There is a clarity and sense of elegance that runs throughout the wines.

2012 PINOT NOIR RÉSERVE
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
No new oak. Domaine Weinbach also make another Pinot Noir, Cuvée W, that sees partial maturation in new wood.
Bright cherry red. Light and fresh. Crème de mure, marzipan, cherry and rhubarb. Dry, ripe supple tannins, sour cherry. No lack of acidity. Good length.
Score: 16/20

2012 ‘CUVÉE THEO’ RIESLING
Producer: Domaine Weinbach

Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 1 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright silvery yellow in appearance. Open and aromatic nose of orange zest, stonefruit and crystallised ginger. Dry, medium bodied, zesty and fresh. Attractive blend of stonefruit and citrus with tangy acidity carrying the finish.
Score: 17/20

2013 RIESLING ‘CUVÉE THEO’
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Draws on 35 year old vines from the Clos des Capucins. Recently bottled.
Open and aromatic nose of grapefruit, peach, apple and pear. Direct and straightforward palate of crab apple/green apple and lemon citrus. Will benefit from more time in bottle.
Score: 16+/20

2013 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
From the upper part of the Schlossberg Grand Cru vineyard. Not yet bottled.
Aromatic, slightly floral nose, white peach. Mineral. Delicate and elegant, green apple, peach, floral notes. Bright tingle of acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5++/20

2013 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG CUVÉE STE. CATHERINE GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2013
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Tight and mineral. Floral – apple blossom, pear. Dry, medium bodied; pear, apple and white peach. Good length.
Score: 17+/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER RÉSERVE CLOS DES CAPUCINS
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Driest and lightest Gewürztraminer made at Domaine Weinbach.
Typical Gewürztraminer nose and palate. Quite light and easy. Not too phenolic. Good length and overall balance.
Score: 16.5/20 

2009 GEWÜRZRTRAMINER ALTENBOURG
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 4 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Lifted floral bouquet of rose petal and talc. Off-dry, excellent fruit intensity, stonefruit (yellow peach, nectarine), caramelised pineapple, touch of spice on the finish. Relatively low acidity. Good!
Score: 17/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER FURSTENTUM GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Baked apple pie and streudel straight out of the oven. Slightly exotic edge – lychee. Medium sweet. Good fruit intensity. Lacking slightly on the mid-palate.
Score: 16/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER MAMBOURG GRAND CRU VENDANGES TARDIVES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Grown on clay/limestone soil, which lends the wine a velvet texture.
Gently aromatic nose – not too extrovert. Sweet but delicate. Lychee, rhubarb, white peach, Mirabelle, spice. Doesn’t cloy. Finishes very long! Outstanding.
Score: 18.5/20

2006 GEWÜRZTRAMINER FURSTENTUM SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2006
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 11.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Enormous concentration. Intense and exotic – apple, apricot, yellow plum and lychee. Sweet, elegant and fine.
Score: 18/20

2010 PINOT GRIS CUVÉE D’OR QUINTESSENCE DE GRAINS NOBLES
Producer: Domaine Weinbach
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2006
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 10.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Made from fruit grown below the Furstentum Grand Cru.
Intense and driven - apple crumble. Sweet, enormously concentrated, lovely sherbet-tang balances the sweetness and richness. Stylish and elegant. Exceptional.
Score: 19/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART ONE - DOMAINE MARCEL DEISS

Marcel Deiss is a 27 hectare domaine situated in the village of Bergheim, roughly 25 kilometres north of Colmar. In a region where single varietal wines dominate, Deiss has adopted an approach that emphasises on terroir expression, regardless of cepage. As such, it produces field blends, some of which use all 13 of the permitted Alsace grape varieties, white and red.

Interestingly, co-planted varieties flower at the same time. They are also picked at the same time and co-fermented. Deiss argues that co-fermentation provides for better integration. The estate’s entry level wines includes three mono-cepage wines; a Riesling, Pinot Gris and a Gewurztraminer. Thereafter, it is vineyard name that takes centre stage.

Domaine Marcel Deiss is 100% biodynamic and is moving toward ‘model forestière’, which embodies the concept of ‘nature in harmony’. Trees have been planted both around and inside vineyards. The result thus far has been improved flowering.

The estate's holdings are focused around the village of Bergheim, including the Altenberg Grand Cru, save for Manbourg near Colmar and Schoenbourg in Riquewihr.

The wines of Marcel Deiss are not only among the best made in Alsace, but the best white wines made anywhere. Across the entire range, they manage a wonderful balance of powerful, intense fruit, vibrant acidity, elegance and complexity.

2012 ALSACE
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of all 13 permitted Alsatian varieties.
Bright aromatic nose of lychee and apple blossom. Very fresh and vibrant. Medium bodied, touch phenolic. Good fruit intensity. Spice carries the finish which is long and satisfying.
Score: 16/20

2012 RIESLING
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014
Tasting Note:
Sourced from fruit grown in Bergheim and the nearby village of St Hippolyte.
Delicate and steely citrus-laden nose. Elegant, refined and pretty. Very pure and driven. Lemon citrus, pear and apple on the palate. Delicious.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Off-dry, round and elegant. Very well balanced. A style that really works. Fine and long. Not oily or alcoholic.
Score: 16/20

2011 BERCKEM
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly with all other 12 Alsace varieties in the mix. All of the fruit comes from the village of Bergheim (Berckem is the old name for Bergheim). 15g/l residual sugar.
Attractive aromatic nose – definitely some Gewurztraminer or Muscat here. Touch of sweetness up-front, medium bodied, refined and elegant. Real style and verve on display here. Lovely melange of spice and exotic fruit. Delicious!
Score: 17/20

2008 BURLENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly Pinot Noir with a contribution from all of the white Pinot varieties. 60% whole bunches. Fruit is sourced from a Premier Cru site which is at 280m elevation.
Mid-cherry red. Alluring nose of rhubarb and black cherry, distinctive note of black pepper. Real intensity and depth, brooding yet subtle. Definitely Pinot Noir of real quality, but not Burgundy. Stylish and suave. Un 'vin de sommelier'!.
Score: 17.5/20

2011 LANGENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Beurot, Pinot Noir and Muscat from vines grown on granite soils in St Hippolyte.
Delicate nose of apple, floral notes, phenolic. Round, compact and elegant. Real drive and cut through the mid-palate. Round and with plenty of depth, yet elegant at the same time.
Score: 17/20

2011 ENGELGARTEN
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Vineyard is located immediately behind the Deiss cellar in Bergheim. Blend of Riesling, the Pinots and Muscat.
Bold and flamboyant. A veritable apple tarte tatin of a wine. Rich and voluminous. Lots to enjoy.
Score: 17/20

2010 ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
South facing site located next to Engelgarten. Limestone soils. Two-way blend of Riesling and Pinot Gris. 25g/l residual sugar.
Real lift, concentration and depth. Citrus and baked apple. Plenty of zing on the finish. Starts sweet, but finishes very fresh and dry. Delicious.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 SCHOFFWEG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Riesling and various Pinots grown on soft calcareous sub-soil. Vineyard is located to the east of the Altenberg Grand Cru site.
Open nose of crème patissiere and key lime pie! Dry and mineral, touch austere, needs time! Structured and slightly backward. Touch of tannin. Nose is more open than the palate.
Score: 17.5/20

2010 GRASBERG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
North facing site at 350m elevation. Blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer.
Aromatic and complex. Tightly coiled. Real depth and style. Steely acidity carries the finish.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 GRUENSPIEL
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Deep heavy clay soils. One third each of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. A long ageing wine that is typically austere and tight when young.
Brooding and voluminous. Lots of spice. Mineral rather than fruit. Not yielding a great deal at present. Wide and expansive – full bodied. Tastes like there could be Pinot Blanc in the mix?!? A big wine that needs time.
Score: 17??/20

2009 BURG
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Small river runs through the vineyard, encouraging botrytis.
Off-dry. Citrus, dried apricot, peach and cumquat. Long line of fine acidity carries the finish. Quite brilliant!
Score: 18.5/20

2008 HUEBUHL
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2008
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
A site that produces high levels of botrytis early in the season. Blend of the Pinots and Muscat.
Bright golden yellow. Vibrant nose of quince, spiced apples and honeycomb. Medium sweet. Real fireworks in the mouth – a veritable explosion of flavour. Very complete and together. Very long.
Score: 18.5/20

2011 MANBOURG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
A site that produces wines with typically soft tannins. A regular source for sweet wines, but being windy botrytis rarely occurs.
Lime, pear, spice and crushed minerals. Elegant, medium bodied, very delicate and fine. Vibrant acidity. Delicate and pretty. Needs time.
Score: 18/20

2009 ALTENBERG DE BERGHEIM GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: White Field blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Botrytis occurs late in the season every year. Picked 5 weeks later than Manbourg. Blend of all 13 permitted varieties. 70g/l residual sugar.
Very pretty, aromatic and perfumed. Medium sweet, delicate and fine. Quite backward – not as expressive as the 1er Crus at this point in its evolution. Will literally flower with bottle age.
Score: 18.5/20

2009 SCHOENBERG GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Marcel Deiss
Variety: Aromatic White blend
Vintage: 2009
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 2 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Site is located in Riquewihr. Sourse of some of the longest ageing wines in Alsace. Clay/gypsum soil high in sulphur. Susceptible to botrytis. Blend of Riesling and 20% of the other 12 Alsace varieties.
Pretty, elegant and fine – featherweight in texture. Real depth, concentration and intensity, yet remarkably delicate and elegant. A truly outstanding white wine.
Score: 19.5/20