2016 CA’ DEI ZAGO PROSECCO COL FONDO - HIGH AND DRY

Rather like Collingwood president and media personality Eeddie McGuire, Prosecco is pretty much everywhere these days. Drinkers have been charged by light, frothy sweetness of Prosecco, a judicious dash of Aperol giving one a taste of Venetian life for a few passing moments.

Thanks to its commercial success, Prosecco has been compromised to a degree, many producers satisfied to make mainstream semi-sweet, crowd-pleasing examples. The downside is that such wines struggle to maintain one’s interest beyond a single glass.

‘Col Fondo’ comes from a different angle. It isn’t disgorged, leaving a yeast sediment in the bottle, and is fermented fully dry. The result is a wine that retains the floral apple blossom character one associates with Prosecco, but is more digestible and food friendly. One could happily enjoy this particular with wine Venetia seafood dishes, but would definitely think twice before adding a dash of Aperol!

2016 CA’ DEI ZAGO PROSECCO COL FONDO
Producer: Ca’ dei Zago
Variety: Glera
Region: Veneto, Italy
ABV: 11.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 17 March 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery yellow. Touch of yeast sediment. Subtle nose of green apple and apple blossom. Slightly funky. Gentle mousse. Dry, funky edge flows through to the palate. Crisp and fresh. Under-ripe green apples, twist of citrus. Good food style – would be great with seafood.
Score: 16/20

2005 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL - BLING BLING

Cristal - it’s bling. It’s expensive. Hey, it’s overpriced. It’s also a very good drink. 2005 was not a vintage for the ages in Champagne but Louis Roederer Cristal is a damned fine drink.

As an expensive luxury cuvee, Cristal has its detractors among the cognisceti. Even they would have to admit that the 2005 is a good wine. There’s a lot to like in this generously endowed, richly weighted wine. There is genuine class on display in the shape of exotically spice crème patissiere.

Although no bargain, this is a delicious Cristal drinking near or at the peak of its powers.

2005 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL
Producer: Louis Roederer
Variety: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $350.00
Date tasted: 10 June 2017

Tasting Note:
Silvery yellow. Fine persistent bead. Enticing nose of spice pear/apple and toasted brioche. Real weight and depth of flavour on the palate – crème patissiere, honey and baking spices. Perhaps not super complex, but lots of class on show. By no means a bargain, but top notch fizz. Good result from a so-so vintage.
Score: 18.5/20

NV JEAN PERNET CUVEE PRESTIGE BLANC DE BLANCS - BUBBLE BOY

Based in the village of Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Jean Pernet is a small Champagne house making good value Champagnes. Not surprisingly given its base in the heart of the Cote de Blancs, Chardonnay plays an important role at Jean Pernet.

Cuvee Prestige is the standout from the Pernet range. Based on 100% Chardonnay sourced primarily from Le Mesnil Sur Oger, it is a wonderfully fine and elegant Champagne. Typical Chardonay flavours come through in the form of lemon citrus and green apple, overlaid by gingerbread and exotic spice.

NV JEAN PERNET CUVEE PRESTIGE BLANC DE BLANCS
Producer: Jean Pernet
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $80.00
Date tasted: 24 December 2016

Tasting Note:
Very fine mousse and persistent bead. Inviting nose of freshly grilled brioche, pain d’epice, candied lemon peel. Dry, very fine and elegant. Delicate and soft, yeast autolysis comes through on the palate against green apple and lemon citrus. Slightly chalky in texture. Complex and long. Classy stuff.
Score: 17.5/20

NV VEUVE MONSIGNY BRUT - CHEAP THRILLS

German-owned retailer Aldi has shaken up the traditional supermarket duopoly here in Australia. With an unconventional approach to retail, it has quickly established a legion of loyal supporters. In no small part, Aldi’s success is down to being particularly keen on price thanks largely to its lack of reliance on established household brands.

A glance in the liquor department shows just one Champagne on the shelves. Surprise, surprise, it isn’t a household name from the Moet-Hennessy empire. Priced at just $25 per bottle, Aldi’s exclusive Champagne is NV Veuev Monsigny Brut.

In the festive season, we are accustomed to seeing brands such as Mumm being discounted to well under $40 per bottle. $25 per bottle is seriously cheap. Is it any good? Well, in the glass, it looks like decent Champagne, with a fine persistent bead.

On the nose, it is relatively simple. If one had to be critical, there’s a candied note that is slightly off-putting. On the palate, the wine is clean, fresh and relatively uncomplicated. There’s little yeast autolysis to speak of and it could do with being just a touch drier. That said, the overall quality is very decent.

This is by no means top drawer non-vintage Champagne, but it is a solid example that does what it says on the label. It is a perfectly respectable wine to pour if catering for the masses and at $25 per bottle, who can complain?!

NV VEUVE MONSIGNY BRUT
Producer: Charles Mignon
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 21 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery white in appearance. Fine persistent bead. Straightforward nose of candied apple, strawberry, nashi pear. Dry and fine. Very drinkable, if not particularly long or complex. No autolysis to speak of, but light, fresh and thoroughly decent.
Score: 15.5/20

NV ANDRÉ CLOUET BRUT RÉSERVE - i'M FOREVER BLOWING BUBBLES

Based in the village of Bouzy, André Clouet is the source of some of the best value examples of Pinot Noir-dominant Champagne. Its Brut Réserve is a delight to drink showcasing delicate red fruits. The dosage is modest, providing for a dry, but not austere, wine that is dangerously drinkable. More please!

NV ANDRÉ CLOUET BRUT RÉSERVE
Producer: André Clouet
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $60.00
Date tasted: 23 November 2015

Tasting Note:
Pale silvery yellow in appearance. Fine persistent bubbles. Bright nose of candied red fruits, slightly floral. Dry, elegant, very plush on the palate. Red fruits follow through. Not a great deal of autolysis, but delicious and moreish. Top notch grower fizz.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 TALTARNI BLANC DE BLANCS - SPARKLE OF MY EYES

As a category, Australian sparkling wine is more challenging ever. It lacks the sexy appeal of Champagne (yet wines made using the traditional method are just as expensive to make) and the light, frothy ease of Prosecco. Moreover, there are many sweet, commercial examples that do the style few favours.

In this context, the team at Taltarni should be congratulated for not only persevering, but continue to develop and improve the range. Taltarni Blanc de Blancs, from the 2011 vintage, is an example of how to get Australian sparkling wine right.

It starts with the raw materials, sourced from several cool climate regions in South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania. 2011 was a challenging year for dry table wines, but exactly what the doctor ordered for producing quality fruit for sparking wine.

The result is a wine that showcases pristine Chardonnay fruit – green apple, lemon zest and grapefruit pith. There’s little autolysis to speak of, but fruit takes centre stage here, admirably so. At just $23 per bottle, there are few better value sparkling wines in the market today particularly for single vintage, traditional method bubbles.

2011 TALTARNI BLANC DE BLANCS
Producer: Taltarni
Variety: Sparkling wine – Blanc de Blancs
Vintage: 2011
Region: Multi-regional, Australia
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $23.00
Date tasted: 3 October 2015

Tasting Note:
Silvery lemon in appearance. Clean nose of crisp green apples, lemon and grapefruit pith. Dry and fresh, pristine in feel; green apple and lemon pith. No autolysis to speak of, but very clean, fresh, well balanced and, most importantly, dry. Excellent value for money.
Score: 16/20

MV KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE - DIFFERENT CLASS

Krug is arguably the most celebrated name in the world of Champagne. When it was acquired by Moët Hennessy a decade or so ago, there was some debate as to whether there had been a departure in style. At the time it was argued that the new owners were getting the wine to market more efficiently than had been the case previously, resulting in ‘fresher’ wine for the consumer.

This particular bottle of Grande Cuvée displays the breeding and class one expects of Krug. Like a sleek luxury sports car, it is about sharp lines and power. It is a taut and somewhat linear Champagne, not revealing its full potential at this point in time.

In this imbiber’s view, while there is plenty of class on show, it is a wine that (at this point in time) lacks a touch of personality. Another 2-3 years post-disgorgement ageing would probably see that personality emerge and reveal itself. Unfortunately, the asking price for Krug doesn’t avail one the opportunity to wait for a second bottle to mature.

MV KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE
Producer: Krug
Variety: Champagne
Vintage: Multi-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
Alcohol: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $250.00
Date tasted: 8 June 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow in appearance. Focused nose of bruised apple, lemon/grapefruit pit, roasted hazelnuts and brioche. Medium bodied, very dry. Quite restrained – slightly backward. Taut, even slightly backward. The nose flows through to the palate together with a touch of spice. More linear than the Krug of old. Good, but just lacking wow factor - perhaps it will come with further bottle age.
Score: 17+/20

NV CAMILLE SAVÈS 'CARTE BLANCHE' BRUT - BALLAD OF THE GROWER

Grower Champagnes are among the best value offerings made in the Champagne region. This is particularly true of Camille Savès, a high quality producer based in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy. As one would expect, the wines of this producer are Pinot Noir dominant. 'Carte Blanche' draws on Pinot Noir from Bouzy, Ambonnay and Tours-sur-Marne and Chardonnay from the Premier Cru village of Tauxières.

This is a quality Champagne loaded with character thanks to high quality fruit and roughly four years on lees prior to disgorgement. Everything is in its place here, with the bouquet and palate both delivering an attractive balance of stonefruit and yeasty maturity. At a snip over $60 per bottle it compares favourably to many of Champagne’s big names.

NV CAMILLE SAVÈS 'CARTE BLANCHE' BRUT
Producer: Camille Savès
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
Alcohol: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $65.00
Date Tasted: 23 November 2014

Tasting Note:
Slightly copper hue. Fine persistent bead. Attractive and immediately engaging nose of yellow plum, strawberry, gingerbread, touch of autolysis. Dry, elegant and refined, stonefruit, stem ginger, lemony acidity carries the finish. Top quality non-vintage Champagne!
Score: 17/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: CHAMPAGNE - PART FOUR - ALSO TASTED....VILMART, PIERRE PETERS + MORE

See below notes from a smattering of other top grower and small producer wines tasted while in Champagne (plus one purchased in Lyon in 2013). This eclectic selection confirms in the most positive way that there has never been a better time to drink premium Champagne.

NV VILMART GRANDE RESERVE
Producer: Vilmart
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of Premier Cru Pinot Noir (70%) and Chardonnay grown in Rilly-la-Montagne.
Bright lemon yellow with greenish tinge. Fine and persistent bead. Clean and fresh bouquet of crystallised fruit (honeydew melon, orange, cumquat). Nutty notes emerge with air. Crystallised fruits flow through to the palate which is fine, fruity and elegant.
Score: 16/20

NV BENOIT LAHAYE BRUT NATURE
Producer: Benoit Lahaye
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 29 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Predominantly Pinot Noir from the Grand Cru village of Bouzy. No dosage.
Copper tinged hue. Expressive and intense nose of red fruits interwoven with bright citrus. Weighty, rich palate of real substance and depth. Delicate red fruit carries the palate, underlined by grapefruit citrus.
Score: 17/20

2005 PIERRE GIMMONET BLANC DE BLANCS OENEPHILE 1ER CRU
Producer: Pierre Gimmonet
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (100% Chardonnay)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
No dosage.
Pale silvery yellow with golden glints. Clean piercingly fresh nose – direct and forthright! Freshly squeezed lemon juice, crisp green apple, grilled hazelnuts. Dry but not austere. Slight creaminess up-front, very fresh and alive. Real depth and substance on the mid-palate.
Score: 17.5/20

NV PIERRE PETERS BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU
Producer: Pierre Peters
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (100% Chardonnay)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 31 May 2014

Tasting Note:
100% Chardonnay from Le-Mesnil-Sur-Oger.
Very pale silvery lemon in appearance. Steely nose of lemon zest, greengage and crap apple. Dry, slightly chalky in the mouth, limpid, tart green apples, lemony acidity. Real cut and verve!
Score: 16.5/20 

Tasted in Lyon in 2013.  Emmanuel Brochet is a tiny producer with just a few hectares under vine.  If this bottle is any evidence, quality is excellent.

NV EMMANUEL BROCHET CHAMPAGNE EXTRA BRUT ‘LE MONT BENOIT’
Producer: Emmanuel Brochet
Variety: Champagne & Sparkling (40% Pinot Meunier, 35% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 9 September 2013

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow with golden glints. Very fine vigorous bead on pouring. Small bubbles. Attractive nose of acacia, grilled hazelnuts, red apples, grapefruit pith. Moderate autolysis. Smells mature. Dry and elegant palate; not austere in any way. Finishes very long. A very good grower Champagne that is more than a match than any Grande Marque at the same price.
Score: 17+/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: CHAMPAGNE - PART THREE - LARMANDIER-BERNIER

Larmandier-Bernier sits at the summit of Champagne’s growers. Based in the village of Vertus in the Côte de Blancs, it produces a range of primarily Chardonnay-based terroir-focused wines from 16 hectares of owned vineyards.

As a grower, Larmandier-Bernier is in stark contrast to the large houses. All of its vineyard holdings are farmed biodyamically, something that is impossible for the big guns sourcing from dozens of growers across the region. Oak barrels are the preferred fermentation and maturation vessel, though two concrete eggs are employed exclusively for the Pinot Noir-based rosé.

In terms of philosophy, Larmandier-Bernier is more aligned with a small Burgundy domaine than Champagne’s larger houses. The traditional Champagne bywords of ‘blending for consistency’ is of little import here compared to that of terroir expression.

There is real quality to be found throughout the entire Larmandier-Berner range and a sense of place that isn’t always evident with the wines of the larger houses. All of the wines show a real mineral edge akin to licking chalk. While dosage levels are low (no greater than 4g/l), there is no sense of austerity in any of the wines, such is the quality of the fruit at the estate’s disposal.

NV LARMANDIER-BERNIER ROSÉ DE SAIGNÉE
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir 100%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
100% Premier Cru Pinot Noir fruit from Vertus fermented in concrete eggs. Dosage is 3g/l.
Bright strawberry pink – quite deep in colour. Elegant lifted nose of cranberry, redcurrant rhubarb. Delicate, elegant red-fruited palate. Very bright and lively. Great rosé Champagne!
Score: 17.5+/20

NV LARMANDIER-BERNIER LATITUDE
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
100% Chardonnay from vines planted on deeper and richer topsoils in Vertus. The 2011 vintage provides the base for this release, blended with 30% reserve wines from 2004 to 2010. Dosage is 4g/l. Dry, very delicate and elegant. Crisp green apple and chalky minerals. Zesty citrus acidity carries the finish. More mineral that fruity.
Score: 17/20

NV LARMANDIER-BERNIER LONGITUDE 1ER CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
100% Chardonnay from vines planted on thin topsoils in Vertus and Cramant. Based on the 2010 vintage with 40% reserve wines.
Lifted nose of whitecurrants, grapefruit. Very delicate, refined and elegant. Lively and very long on the finish. Chalky mineral grip.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 LARMANDIER-BERNIER TERRE DE VERTUS 1ER CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: 2009
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Single vineyard Chardonnay. No dosage.
Open and expansive nose of white fruit, touch of pain grillé and hazelnut. Bone dry, delicate. Lemon citrus and minerals (crushed rocks?!). Very long.
Score: 18/20

2009 LARMANDIER-BERNIER LES CHEMINS D’AVIZE GRAND CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: 2009
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Single vineyard Chardonnay.
No dosage. Lifted, perfumed nose – floral, acacia. Dry, earthy, racy. Very mineral and tense. Like a young Grand Cru Chablis! Should flower in bottle.
Score: 18.5+/20 

2006 LARMANDIER-BERNIER VIELLES VIGNES CRAMANT GRAND CRU
Producer: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Chardonnay 100%)
Vintage: 2006
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Six years on lees.
Open and expansive nose – honeycomb, crème brulée, spice. Dry, elegant and stylish. Plenty of complexity on show here. Quite superb.
Score: 18.5+/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: CHAMPAGNE - PART TWO - GOSSET

Gosset is a mid-sized house that occupies a premium position in the marketplace thanks its high
quality and smartly packaged Grande Réserve and Grande Rosé. Recent years have witnessed major change at Gosset, the most significant change being the move from Äy to new headquarters and state of the art production facilities in the heart of Epernay.

In market contrast to Bollinger, Gosset’s former neighbour in Äy, all Gosset wines are fermented in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation is blocked for all wines save for the relatively commercial, entry level Brut Excellence. As a result, Gosset’s wines do tend to develop very well in bottle.

There is a common theme of elegance, finesse and harmony across the Gosset range. As the Grande Millésime 2004 and Cuvée Celebris 2002 demonstrate, they have genuine ageing ability and deserve to be ranked among Champagne’s upper echelon.

On evidence of this visit, Gosset is a house on the move (quite literally dare I say!). A combination of slick new packaging and smart new facilities puts it in a good position to take advantage of emerging markets.

NV GOSSET GRANDE BLANC DE BLANCS
Producer: Gosset
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (100% Chardonnay)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of fruit from the Côte de Blancs and Montagne de Reims. 3 years on lees.
Very fine. Steely, citrusy, green apple. Delicate, taut and racy. Featherweight in texture.
Score: 17/20

NV GOSSET GRANDE RÉSERVE
Producer: Gosset
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir 42%, Chardonnay 43%, Pinot Meunier 15%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Blend of 20 different villages, all of which are Premier and Grand Cru. 4 years on lees.
Rich round and elegant with genuine depth and volume. Excellent length.
Score: 16.5/20

2004 GOSSET GRANDE MILLÉSIME
Producer: Gosset
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir 45%, Chardonnay 55%)
Vintage: 2004
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
9 years on lees.
Rich and round, crème patissiere. Evolving, but not there yet. Honey and acacia. Drinking well now and should develop further.
Score: 17.5/20

NV GOSSET GRANDE ROSÉ
Producer: Gosset
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir 34%, Chardonnay 66%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Gosset’s rosé is always a Chardonnay-dominant blend rather than saignée, the aim being to produce a wine that is pale in colour and consistent from on bottling to another. At 12% of sales, it is a key player in the portfolio.
Pale onion skin – gentle pinkish hue. Delicate bouquet of strawberry, spring flowers. Very delicate, elegant and fine.
Score: 17/20

2002 GOSSET CUVEÉ CELEBRIS
Producer: Gosset
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir 48%, Chardonnay 52%)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 30 May 2014
Tasting Note:
Serious nose of spice, ground coffee/mocha, yellow fruits, spiced apple. Quite superb, with its best years ahead of it.
Score: 18/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: CHAMPAGNE - PART ONE - BOLLINGER

This is the first of a series of reports form recent travels through Champagne and Alsace. It was the fourth time the Penguin had visited Champagne, but proved to be a real eye-opener, a chance to get out among the villages and get a genuine feel for the region. At a superficial level, Champagne is about marketing gloss, but dig a little bit further and it is a fascinating region, producers small and large making varied expressions of the world’s greatest sparkling wine.
We start this series with Bollinger, one of Champagne’s big guns. Established in 1829, Bollinger has 164 hectares of owned vineyard, supplemented by fruit that is sourced via contracted growers (roughly 40% is bought in).

As many will no doubt be aware, Bollinger is a Pinot Noir-dominant style characterised by an oxidative notes thanks to partial fermentation and maturation in oak barrels. One should note that the use of wood is not about imparting oak-derived characters, but oxygen exchange.  Average barrel age is 5 years.

Oak is reserved for juice from Premier and Grand Cru fruit, meaning that less than 30% of the must designated for Special Cuvée spends time in wood. This increases up to 100% for vintage bottlings. The folks at Bollinger argue that the slow process of micro-oxygenation via the wood protects the wine. By way of example, no sulphur dioxide is added at disgorgement; it’s simply “not needed”.

What of the wines themselves? This particular tasting was limited to the Special Cuvée and Grande Année 2004 (sadly no sign of the recently released Bollinger RD 2002). This particular showing was a most positive one, both wines displaying a lovely balance of richness, elegance and complexity. Most importantly, there was a genuine freshness to both wines.  There has been talk that current releases aren't meeting the lofty standards one expects of Bollinger, but this showing was extremely positive.

NV BOLLINGER SPECIAL CUVÉE
Producer: Bollinger
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier)
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Minimum of 3 years on lees. Dosage is 9g/l.
Open and complex nose of crème patissière, brioche, honey, acacia and stonefruit. Elegant, delicate and fine. Fades slightly in the glass, but an excellent showing for Bollinger’s volume driver.
Score: 16/20

2004 BOLLINGER GRANDE ANNÉE
Producer: Bollinger
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine (60% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay)
Vintage: 2004
Region: Champagne, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 28 May 2014

Tasting Note:
Made exclusively from Premier and Grand Cru fruit. Minimum of 7 years on lees. Dosage is 8g/l. Intense and brooding – powerfiul and elegant at one. A touch closed perhaps? Certainly not as open or giving as the Special Cuvée at this point in time. Pinot Noir drives both the bouquet and palate. Tightly coiled and needing time. Will reward patience.
Score: 17.5/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: BEST'S GREAT WESTERN

Historic Best’s winery, founded way back in 1866, is an Australian icon. A visit to Best’s is like taking a step back in time, with a number of original buildings, and vines that date back to the late 1800’s. Take a walk out the front of the cellar door and you’ll see 130 year old Dolcetto vines that were originally thought to be Malbec.

As a family-owned winery, Best’s has always tended to steer away from the norm. It is one of few wineries in the world to release a single varietal Pinot Meunier. Recent years have seen a marked improvement in the white wines at Best’s. The Rieslings and Pinot Gris are all excellent examples, albeit the flagship House Block Riesling (bottled off-dry in a Germanic style) is not cheap at $35.

Although Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon are grown, the real star here is the Shiraz, a grape that was seemingly made for Great Western. The flagship Thomson Family Shiraz is without a doubt one of Australia’s best. At around $150 it is no bargain, but it compares favourably with many other luxury cuvees. Bin 0 Shiraz is a benchmark of its style; it’s all about textural elegance, forest berry fruit, tar and anise – sophisticated stuff indeed. Sadly, it is no longer the bargain it once was.

Bin 1 Shiraz, the newcomer in the line-up, delivers excellent value for money, and is the way to go for those seeking value. It should improve with cellaring for up to a decade.

2008 PINOT NOIR ROSÉ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Rosé (100% Pinot Noir)
Vintage: 2008
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $15.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Pale strawberry pink. Bright summery strawberry fruit on the nose. Dry and elegant, holding up well for a 3 year old rosé. Crisp and vibrant. Good length. Another good example of how far Australia has progressed with rosé as a style.
Score: 16/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
The 2011 is the first official release of this wine. Pale silvery lemon. Typical Pinot Gris nose of red and green apples. Touch of lychee. Dry and elegant, good fruit intensity. Vibrant lemon citrus acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 RIESLING
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Very pale, almost water white. Aromatic nose of Granny Smith apples, slightly floral. Medium dry, touch of spritz. Easy going style that would be well suited to moderately spiced Asian cuisine.
Score: 16/20

2010 HOUSE BLOCK RIESLING
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 10.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $35.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Lemon sherbert and Granny Smith apples on the nose. Off-dry, good fruit intensity, once again green apples and lemon citrus. Slightly richer in texture than the basic Riesling. Lively acidity on the finish. A bit expensive for what it is.
Score: 16/20

2009 ESTATE VINEYARD PINOT MEUNIER
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Meunier
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $35.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Meaty nose, rhubarb, cherry. Dry, medium bodied. Elegant, pure and savoury, dark cherry fruit. A nasty wine to taste blind!
Score: 16/20

2010 ESTATE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $22.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright cherry red. Vibrant nose of cherries. Dry and elegant, quite light and savoury. There’s a light hand at work here, the wine comes across as being unforced. Dark cherry fruit again on the palate. Quite pleasant, albeit not particularly complex.
Score: 15.5/20

2010 OLD CLONE PINOT NOIR
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2008
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $60.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
From a single vineyard planted in 1867. Cherries and strawberries on the nose, together with sandalwood. Weighter and fuller in body than the Estate Pinot Noir. Slightly stalky edge. Decent length. A touch expensive.
Score: 15/20

2010 GREAT WESTERN CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Bright ruby red. Kirsch and fruit of the forest compote. Dry, medium bodied, gentle raspberry and boysenberry fruit. Not particularly intense or varietal, but clean and well made.
Score: 15/20

2010 GREAT WESTERN BIN 1 SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2010
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Intense raspberry red. Bold and flamboyant nose of tar, boysenberry, blueberry and plum. Dry, medium bodied, very elegant and fine. Ripe and sweet fruited to start, but finishes dry with structured tannins. Elegant and very impressive. Excellent value for money.
Score: 17.5/20

2009 GREAT WESTERN BIN 0 SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Price: $75.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Deep plum red. Slightly reticent nose; smoky oak, licorice, raspberry coulis, brambly fruit. Quite serious. Dry, slightly richer and fuller than the Bin 1. Concentrated essence of Shiraz. Firm structured tannins frame the finish which is long. Holds out great promise for the future.
Score: 18/20

2009 SPARKLING SHIRAZ
Producer: Best’s Great Western
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine
Vintage: 2009
Region: Great Western, Victoria
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Crown cap
Price: $25.00
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 28 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Brambly fruit compote. Fruit sweetness upfront. Raspberry and plum laden fruit driven style that would be well suited to Chinese cuisine especially Peking Duck. 

Score: 16/20

ROCKFORD BLACK SHIRAZ…….THANKFULLY NO-ONE ELSE ‘GETS IT’

Rockford’s much sought after Black Shiraz is a non-vintage bottling. Thankfully, the back label carries a date of disgorgement, giving one an idea of age. In the interest of science, a few bottles of old Black Shiraz were locked away, just to see how they would develop in bottle. A cool Friday night in September seemed as good excuse as any to shake the cobwebs off a bottle and see how it was performing.

For those that like the stuff, the 1998 disgorgement of Rockford Black Shiraz delivers pleasure in spades. If you’re sitting on the odd bottle or two, or perhaps even a 6-pack, no need to rush, this wine’s got a good decade or so in the tank. The only trouble is resisting temptation!

N.V. BLACK SHIRAZ (SEPTEMBER 1998 DISGORGEMENT)
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Sparkling Shiraz
Vintage: Non-vintage
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Price: N/a
Closure: Natural cork
Format: 750ml
Date tasted: 17 September 2011

Tasting Note:
Pours mid ruby with a lovely candy pink mousse, fine bubbles. Liqueured cherries and damsons on the nose together with a touch of spice, reflected on the palate. The wine is exceptionally well balanced. Based on experience with bottles of Seppelt Show Reserve Sparkling Shiraz from the 1980’s, this particularly disgorgement should continue to develop for many years to come.
Score: 17+/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: BAROSSA VALLEY - ROCKFORD

For anyone raised in South Australia, Rockford is a Barossa Valley winery that has almost icon status. Basket Press Shiraz and the non-vintage sparkling Black Shiraz are feted to the extent that they are offered to a select group of mail order customers on allocation, no more than 6 bottles of each per customer.

On evidence of a tasting of current releases, as well as a couple of gems from the museum collection, the reds continue to be the stars at Rockford. That said, the 2007 Local Growers Semillon is one to look out for. At under $20, it represents excellent value and should develop well in bottle for up to 5 years.

Of the big name reds, the 2009 Basket Press Shiraz is in fine form. Such is the tannin management that the wine slides easily down the gullet now. Rest assured, there’s no lack of structure here, and there’s oodles of high quality old vine fruit to see this wine well into its second decade.

Also impressive is the 2009 Rifle Range Cabernet Sauvignon. It displays true varietal character, something not always associated with Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and should keep well for at least a decade.

The latest N.V. Black Shiraz, disgorged just a couple of months back, was frankly rather tight and taut, not revealing much of its potential. Judgement should really be reserved for a couple of months. Past experience suggests that bottle age will see the wine settle down and develop spicy complexity.

Good as many of the other Rockford wines undoubtedly are, star of the current line-up is the 2003 Shiraz V.P., a single vineyard Shiraz fortified with locally distilled 12-year old spirit. It’s rich, sweet up-front, savoury on the finish, with complex layers of prune and black cherry fruit entwined with exotic spices. Although delivering plenty of pleasure now, it should age well in bottle for many years to come.

2009 EDEN VALLEY RIESLING
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2009
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: %
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $20.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Quite delicate and elegant. Pithy grapefruit and stony minerality. A rather gentle and polite Riesling. Perhaps could do with a bit more fruit intensity. Decent enough value, but there are better examples of Eden Valley Riesling out there.
Score: 15/20

2004 EDEN VALLEY RIESLING
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2004
Region: Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 11.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Touch of kerosene on the nose. Slightly honeyed and oily in texture. Rounded, but rather simple.
Score: 14.5/20

2007 LOCAL GROWER’S SEMILLON
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Semillon
Vintage: 2007
Region: Barossa Valley & Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 12.2%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $18.50
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Made using fruit sourced from the Barossa Valley floor and Eden Valley. A small percentage of the wine sees wild barrel fermentation. Quite textured; creamy, but not too weighty on the palate. Melon and peach, touch of honey, vanilla and subtle oak spice. All in all, a very good wine, and excellent value. Better than either of the two Rieslings. Should develop well in bottle over the medium term.
Score: 16.5/20

2007 MOPPA SPRINGS
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2007
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $24.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Blend of Grenache (55%), Mourvèdre (30%) and Shiraz (15%). Elegant, savoury, meaty and spicy. Not a heavyweight at all, indeed, rather fine and elegant. Although showing just moderate complexity at present, a recent bottle of the 1998 Moppa Springs demonstrates that this wine can age well in bottle, developing layers of spicy complexity. 
Score: 15+/20

2003 MOPPA SPRINGS
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Grenache et al
Vintage: 2003
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $28.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Sweet raspberry coulis on the nose. Full and fleshy with suggestions of tar, star anise, clove and cinnamon. Drinking well now, but shows only modest complexity. 
Score: 15/20

2008 ROD & SPUR
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon blend
Vintage: 2008
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $30.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Blend of Shiraz (53%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (47%). Subtle spicy oak intermingled with red fruits. Dry, medium bodied; like the Moppa Springs, this is not an overoaked warm climate monster. In fact, it is rather elegant. Quite classy. Both elements are well balanced and the oak is well integrated. Tight at the moment, but should open out over the medium term. 
Score: 16/20

2009 RIFLE RANGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon et al
Vintage: 2009
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $37.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note: Surprising varietal for a Barossa Valley Cabernet! Blackcurrant pastilles and underbrush. Ripe black fruit framed by very fine powdery tannins. Well balanced acidity and alcohol. Finishes long. 
Score: 16.5/20

2009 BASKET PRESS SHIRAZ
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2009
Region: Barossa Valley & Eden Valley, South Australia
ABV: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $54.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Matured in a combination of new and used American and French oak barrels. Full bodied, rich and fleshy. Excellent fruit intensity; blackberry, plum and cherry. Oak is subtle and well integrated, allowing the fruit to speak for itself. Finishes long with very fine, slightly puckering tannins. Should have a long life ahead of it. An excellent Rockford Basket Press! 
Score: 17+/20

2003 SVS HOFFMAN SHIRAZ
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Syrah/Shiraz
Vintage: 2003
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 15.0%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $85.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Single vineyard wine, made solely from pressings wine and matured in 100% new American oak. Very deep in colour for a wine approaching 10 years of age. Intense on the nose, with very forward charry American oak. Very intense on the palate, liquorice, charry oak, roasted spices and coconut. Taut and tannic. Hint of alcohol warmth on the finish. A bit of a monster, in contrast to the other Rockford wines, which display considerable elegance and judicious use of oak. Needs plenty of time. A ‘statement’ wine. 
Score: 16+/20

N.V. BLACK SHIRAZ
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Champagne/Sparkling Wine
Vintage: Non-vintage (Disgorged 2011)
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $57.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
Disgorged just a couple of months ago, and a bit unyielding. Sweet cherry and plum confit, rather tight. Not strutting its stuff at this stage, but time in bottle will undoubtedly be rewarded. A subsequent tasting of Black Shiraz from magnum (triaged in 1994 and disgorged in the past 12 months) showed how well it can age, developing an almost ethereal floral bouquet. 
Score: 16.5+/20

2003 SHIRAZ V.P.
Producer: Rockford
Variety: Fortified wine – Port
Vintage: 2003
Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia
ABV: 18.1%
Closure: Cork
Format: 750ml
Retail price: $63.00
Date tasted: 20 October 2011

Tasting Note:
A Vintage Port style wine, made from old vine single vineyard Shiraz, fortified with locally distilled 12 year old Brandy spirit. Flamboyant nose of prune, liqueured plums and morello cherries. Rich, full bodied and sweet on the palate, fig, prune and dark spices. Like all good Ports, the finish is slightly dry, and the spirit is extremely well balanced (though at just over 18%, the alcohol is relatively low for a Vintage Port). Already showing a good amount of complexity. Really rather good, an Australian Graham’s perhaps?! 
Score: 18/20