2015 CLYDE PARK CHARDONNAY - BONNIE AND.......

Dollar for dollar Australia is arguably produces the best quality Chardonnay on this planet. Yes, white Burgundy at its best is without peer, but it comes at a considerable expense. There are many exceptional examples of Australian Chardonnay to be found at under $50 per bottle. That’s less than you would pay for an entry level Bourgogne Blanc from a good domaine.

Clyde Park Chardonnay is yet another delicious Australia Chardonnay. The most impressive thing about this wine is the balance of fruit, acidity and oak. It is more heavily worked than some edgy Chardonnays, but is nevertheless fresh and complex.

It is a wine without pretension that simply says ‘Drink me!’ Amen to that.

2015 CLYDE PARK CHARDONNAY
Producer: Clyde Park
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Geelong, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $35.00
Date tasted: 21 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Attractive nose of green apple, William pear, white nectarine, grilled hazelnuts and subtle, spicy oak. Medium bodied, good fruit concentration. Nice balance of fruit and oak – well judged – a wine that its self assured and confident. Delicious drinking.
Score: 16.5/20

2014 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1ER CRU MONTEE DE TONNERRE - GHOST IN THE SHELL

2014 is widely acknowledged as an exceptional vintage for Chablis, delivering a near perfect balance of pristine fruit and laser-like acidity. It was also a relatively well priced vintage unlike the likes of 2016, which suffered from a very low crop thanks to a disastrous frost.

By the standards of some Chablis producers, Louis Michel is a very modern operation – temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel vats, screw-cap closures – for a region that has suffered its share of issues with premature oxidation, this gives the consumer a degree of confidence.

Four years on from vintage, Michel’s Montee de Tonnerre 2014 is showing fairly well, but not quite delivering the goods as yet, wanting for a touch of complexity. Revisit in a couple of years.

2014 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1ER CRU MONTEE DE TONNERRE
Producer: Louis Michel
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Chablis, France
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $75.00
Date tasted: 4 April 2018

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Limpid nose of lemon sherbet and grapefruit pith, touch of apple blossom. Dry, medium bodied, starting to emerge from its shell. Green apple and lemon/grapefruit citrus. Not particularly complex at this juncture.
Score: 16/20

2014 INCOGNITO CHARDONNAY - HE AIN'T HEAVY....

Incognito is a label developed by the team at Shaw & Smith to make use of young vine and bought in fruit. Both the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir under the Incognito label are well priced, coming in at just $20 per bottle.

Made from Adelaide Hills fruit, the 2014 Incognito Chardonnay is a straightforward wine that is very much ‘on trend’ in terms of contemporary Australian Chardonnay styles. Oak and winemaker influence are very much downplayed, allowing the fruit to take centre stage.

It is a gentle and easy drinking wine that would work very well as a crowd pleaser and for cocktail functions.

2014 INCOGNITO CHARDONNAY
Producer: Shaw & Smith
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
ABV: 12.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 11 March 2018

Tasting Note:
Silvery yellow in appearance. Clean nose of pear, apple and grapefruit. Dry, medium bodied, very fresh and easy. Uncomplicated. Pear and apple. Negligible oak influence. Does what it says on the label.
Score: 15/20

2015 ATHLETE’S OF WINE VINERO ROMSEY CHARDONNAY - RUN

Here in Melbourne, it is a well-trodden road from sommelier to winemaker. With an intimate understanding of what works on the dinner table and a network of colleagues to sell their wines to, sommelier cum winemaker would seem to be a business model that can’t fail.

Athlete’s of Wine is the brainchild of two local sommeliers turned vignerons. Stylishly packaged, Athlete’s of Wine Vinero Romsey Chardonnay is good quality modern Australian Chardonnay.

The Macedon Ranges are the source of some of Australia’s best Chardonnays, Bindi and Curly Flat being the region’s two superstars. With access to good raw materials, the chaps at Athelete’s of Wine have produced a classy Chardonnay that delivers depth of flavour, freshness and oak-driven complexity in one.

Indeed, there is sufficient fruit intensity and structure by way of acidity to suggest that it might benefit with a year or two in bottle to come together.

2015 ATHLETE’S OF WINE VINERO ROMSEY CHARDONNAY
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Macedon Ranges, Victoria
ABV: 12.7%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 27 January 2018

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Textbook nose of honeydew melon, white nectarine, grapefruit pith and subtle spicy oak. Dry, medium bodied, nice interplay of melon and grapefruit citrus cossetted in high quality, deftly handled oak. Crisp acidity carries the finish.
Score: 16.5/20

2016 MAC FORBES YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY - THE BENDS

Few in the game know and understand the Yarra Valley better than Mac Forbes. Born and raised in the Yarra and trained under Dr John Middleton at Mount Mary, Mac has an intimate understanding of the ins and outs of this sprawling region.

Since the launch of his own label, Mac has established himself as a reference point for terroir driven expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. His understated approach to winemaking and preference to pick earlier rather than later allows the influence of site to communicate itself through the glass.

The generic Yarra Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir serve rather a different purpose, being assemblage of several vineyard sites. As such, they are the equivalent of a Bourgogne Blanc or Bourgogne Rouge, albeit in a Yarra Valley context.

The 2016 vintage rendition of Mac Forbes Yarra Valley Chardonnay is true to the producer’s philosophy and the warm weather conditions of 2016. Oak influence is subtle and the winemaker’s hand is judicious rather than overt. This is textbook modern Yarra Valley Chardonnay. It’s not a wine that will change your life, but it’s a decent, well-balanced drink that ticks the boxes,

2016 MAC FORBES YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY
Producer: Mac Forbes
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $33.00
Date tasted: 19 October 2017

2011 GIACONDA ESTATE CHARDONNAY - WORK IN PROGRESS

Giaconda Estate Chardonnay is rightfully considered to be the best example of its type in Australia. The wet 2011 vintage presented many challenges, but Chardonnay was one variety that seemed to prosper. On release, this wine was taut and unyielding, with a distinctive struck match character.

Six years on, the wine most definitely shows some development. The marked sulphide notes of youth have all but disappeared, stonefruit, apple/pear and nutty oak to the fore. On the palate, the wine seems to be a touch reserved at present, as if it is holding something back. Indeed, there’s plenty of structure here, enough to suggest that the wine us still on its upward curve. At present, it is a good, but not necessarily great wine.

2011 GIACONDA ESTATE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Giaconda
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Beechworth, Victoria
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $150.00
Date tasted: 26 August 2017

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Direct nose of white nectarine, apple, grapefruit and subtle nutty oak. The struck match character of youth is not discernible at all. Takes some time to fill out, noticeable structure, white flowers, pear, nectarine, early suggestions of honeyed evolution. A bit simple on this showing – appears to be in a transitional phase.
Score: 16.5/20

2015 KUMEU VILLAGE CHARDONNAY - SLAVE TO THE RIVER

Some would argue that Kumeu River is one of the best producers of Chardonnay outside of Burgundy, and with good reason. The 2015 vintage rendition of the estate’s entry level Village Chardonnay is a delicious example of modern Chardonnay.

Fresh, vibrant and savoury, it showcases pristine Chardonnay fruit and assured winemaking. Oak influence is minimal to the point of being imperceptible. You’d be hard pressed to find a better Chardonnay for the money anywhere.

2015 KUMEU VILLAGE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Kumeu River
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Auckland, New Zealand
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $28.00
Date tasted: 18 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Attractive nose of green apple, lemon, grapefruit pith and white peach. Dry, medium bodied, fresh and breezy. The nose flows through to the palate which is stylish and vibrant. Negligible oak influence. High quality stuff and a relative bargain for the price. Delicious stuff.
Score: 17/20

2014 LEVANTINE HILL 'KATHERINE’S PADDOCK' CHARDONNAY - HANGIN' TOUGH

Levantine Hill is the newest kid on the block among the Yarra Valley big guns. With deep financial backing and ambitious plans, it has caused quite a stir. Key to the estate’s development was the recruitment of winemaker Paul Bridgeman from neighbour and Yarra Valley doyen Yarra Yering.

Although it draws on mature estate plantings, which are partly being remodelled to deliver the quality the new owner is seeking, new vines were planted on steep slopes around the family homestead which is situated a kilometre or so from the cellar door.

Katherine’s Paddock is one of several super-premium wines produced from the relatively young vines planted on these slopes. At $150 per bottle, it is priced at a similar level to Giaconda Estate Chardonnay, a wine with a 25-year history of exceptional quality.

On the evidence of this botte, Levantine Hill Katherine’s Paddock Chardonnay deserves to be ranked among Australia’s best examples of the variety. Stylistically, it errs toward to the fully worked end of the spectrum, which is no bad thing. It is compact in scale with more than enough structure by way of acidity to hold things in check. This is textbook Chardonnay of the highest quality, a possible signpost of things to come from Levantine Hill.

2014 LEVANTINE HILL KATHERINE’S PADDOCK CHARDONNAY
Producer: Levantine Hill
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $150.00
Date tasted: 20 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Attractive nose of pear, white nectarine and acacia overlaid by spicy oak. Medium bodied, round and gently creamy in texture. Stonefruit and pear to the fore intermingled with high class spicy oak. A fine line of zesty acidity holds it all in check. Delicious and may improve over the short to medium term.
Score: 17.5+/20

2014 VASSE FELIX CHARDONNAY - WILD WILD WEST

Vasse Felix is very much a Margaret River veteran. That status hasn’t held it back, as the estate’s top wines under the Heytesbury label are considered to be among the best of their type in Australia.

The standard estate Chardonnay is reflective of the less is more philosophy that has defined Australian Chardonnay in the past decade. Oak is subtle and the there is abundant citrusy acidity by way of structure. While one can have few complaints about the wine, it feels that it is just lacking something to give it a bit of oomph and added complexity.

2014 VASSE FELIX CHARDONNAY
Producer: Vasse Felix
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Margaret River, Western Australia
ABV: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 12 March 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow. Open nose of acacia, apple blossom, melon and lemon citrus. Dry and savoury, bright acidity. Bright melon fruit, twist of citrus acidity. Oak is inobtrusive. Unforced modern Australian Chardonnay. Just a touch unexciting.
Score: 16/20

2013 OCEAN EIGHT ‘VERVE’ CHARDONNAY - MODERN GIRL

Since selling Kooyong Estate the Aylward family has established Ocean Eight as a reference point for sinewy, modern Australian Chardonnay and cherry-laden Pinot Noir. A funky Pinot Gris rounds out the range.

From the 2013 vintage, Ocean Eight ‘Verve’ Chardonnay sums up the estate’s philosophy when it comes to Chardonnay. Stylistically, it shares little in common with Australian Chardonnay of old. Instead of tropical fruit and butterscotch we have flinty sulphides, grapefruit pith and green apple.

What sets this wine apart from the many anorexic examples of modern-day Australian Chardonnay is the exceptional fruit intensity and immediate complexity. It won’t appeal to all drinkers being a slimmer and tauter expression of Chardonnay, but there is a lot of class on show here.

2013 OCEAN EIGHT ‘VERVE’ CHARDONNAY
Producer: Ocean Eight
Variety: Chardonnay
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV: 12.6%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 12 March 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Sulphides up-front on the nose, grapefruit pith, honeydew melon. Medium bodied, lemon/grapefruit citrus, white nectarine. Restrained but not lean, with excellent fruit intensity. Drinking very well now.
Score: 17/20

2014 DENIS POMMIER PETIT CHABLIS - LITTLE BY LITTLE

2014 has widely been talked of as an excellent vintage for white Burgundy and Chablis. The quality of the vintage shines through in this modest Petit Chablis from Denis Pommier. Although relatively simple, it has excellent fruit intensity and a touch of gunflint one associates with Chablis.

There is a lot to like about Pommier’s Petit Chablis. It is a wine that delivers well above the appellation norm and is dangerously drinkable.

2014 DENIS POMMIER PETIT CHABLIS
Producer: Denis Pommier
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2014
Region: Burgundy, France
ABV: 12.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $33.00
Date tasted: 12 December 2015

Tasting Note:
Pale greenish yellow. Typical nose of fresh green apples, lemon zest, touch of gunflint. Dry, medium bodied, very fresh and bright. Excellent fruit intensity for a modest appellation. Relatively simple, yet extremely moreish. Refreshing and delicious.
Score: 16/20

2014 HODDLES CREEK ESTATE CHARDONNAY - DEAL

Over the past several years, the folks at Hoddles Creek Estate have built up a deservedly strong reputation for high quality and excellent value for money Yarra Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The 2014 Hoddles Creek Estate Chardonnay lives up to its predecessors. Made to the prevailing contemporary style of Yarra Chardonnay, acid provides the structure. However, there is more than enough fruit to flesh the wine out. Oak is very much in the background, lending gentle complexity.

There is a lovely blend of citrus, apple and stonefruit, with a subtle touch of roasted hazelnut and oak spice. The wine is crisp and fresh on the palate, suggesting only a small proportion of the wine went through malolactic fermentation.

This is a reference point for ‘value’ Australian Chardonnay. At a mere $20 per bottle, it is a genuine bargain.

2014 HODDLES CREEK ESTATE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Hoddles Creek
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2014
Region: Yarra Valley, Victoria
ABV: 13.2%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $20.00
Date tasted: 26 August 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Attractive nose of nectarine, green apple and lemon zest. Touch of roasted hazelnut. Medium bodied, good fruit intensity, oak is barely perceptible – ‘just there’, fruit profile is much the same on the palate as the nose. Quality Australian Chardonnay in the modern idiom and excellent value for money.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 PLANETA CHARDONNAY - POPCORN

Planeta is one of the names that placed Sicilian wine on the world map. Ironically, it did so primarily with international varieties, Chardonnay and Shiraz. Subsequently, Sicily’s palette of indigenous varieties has come to the fore; the likes of Carricante, Cataratto for white, Nero d’Avola and the two Nerellos (Mascalese and Cappuccio) for red.

When it first announced itself, Planeta Chardonnay was very much ‘New World’ in style, boldly flavoured and generously oaked. The 2012 release follows in similar vein. That said, it isn’t a simple heavily worked blockbuster. Although it is unquestionably a fully worked Chardonnay, there is good freshness on the plate, providing a sense of balance. All in all, this is a good wine, though in the Australian context it is perhaps slightly pricy.

2012 PLANETA CHARDONNAY
Producer: Planeta
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2012
Region: Sicily, Italy
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $65.00
Date tasted: 8 June 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. ‘Old School’ Chardonnay nose of buttered popcorn and forward spicy/nutty oak. Honeydew melon and grapefruit citrus in the background. The palate somewhat belies the nose, displaying greater freshness and a lively spine of acid. Quite full in body for a Chardonnay, but with good fruit intensity, balanced oak and fresh acidity. At the bolder end of the sprectrum but certainly not OTT.
Score: 16.5/20

2010 MAIN RIDGE ESTATE CHARDONNAY - GET RICH OR DIE TRYIN'

The Mornington Peninsula is a relatively young region, even by Australian terms. Established in the 1970’s, Main Ridge Estate was the region’s first commercial winery. It has established a reputation for producing some of Australia’s best Pinot Noir.

The estate’s Chardonnay has resisted the drive toward steelier, leaner expressions of the variety and is unashamedly a fully worked wine that undergoes 100% malolcatic fermentation. The 2010 vintage release of Main Ridge Estate Chardonnay illustrates, in no uncertain terms, that there is room for richer styles of Chardonnay.

Thanks to the estate’s high elevation and resulting natural acidity, the Chardonnay carries its ‘fully worked’ badge with ease. This is not a clumsy, overworked, in your face Chardonnay, but a stylishly assembled, full bodied, superbly balanced wine.

2010 MAIN RIDGE ESTATE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Main Ridge Estate
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $60.00
Date tasted: 11 March 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow with golden glints. Alluring nose of nectarine, white peach, roasted hazelnuts, melon and oak spice. Full bodied, dry and round. Plenty of ‘old school’ fully worked richness, held in check by a fine line of balancing acidity. Bold Chardonnay, that works a treat!
Score: 18/20

2011 PARADISE IV CHARDONNAY - RUN TO.....

This imbiber is of the view that, dollar for dollar, Australia is presently producing the best Chardonnay in the world at present. Yes, it is true that in some cases the pendulum has swung too far and certain wines are lean to the point of being mean and austere. That said, there is a wide range of Chardonnay styles, from intelligently made examples of the new wave, steely style (Yabby Lake and Thick as Thieves being but two) to full bodied, fully worked ‘Chardy’.

What we see less of these days is clumsily made, overworked wines from sites that are not particularly well suited to the Chardonnay grape. Geelong’s moderate climate has a strong affinity, as evidenced by the excellent wines of Bannockburn and By Farr. If this wine is any evidence, Paradise IV Chardonnay deserves to be ranked alongside these more famous labels.

2011 Paradise IV Chardonnay is not a subtle wine. There’s plenty of oak on show here, high quality nutty, spicy oak set against a backdrop of fresh, pristine Chardonnay fruit. What makes this wine work so well, aside from the quality of the wood and the fruit, is the fact that the wine hasn’t been worked to within an inch of its life. A prominent line of vibrant acidity ensures it has genuine life and verve.

2011 PARADISE IV CHARDONNAY
Producer: Paradise IV
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2011
Region: Geeling, Victoria
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $46.00
Date tasted: 31 January 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright yellow gold. Open nose of bold spicy oak (nutmeg, clove), grilled hazelnuts, grapefruit, honeydew melon and nashi pear. Full bodied and full flavoured, prominent high class smoky and spicy oak entwined with grapefruit and pear. Plenty of impact and class. Not subtle, but there’s plenty to enjoy and admire.
Score: 17.5/20

2013 BYRNE CHARDONNAY - BYRNE FOR YOU

This imbiber has often argued that, dollar for dollar, Australia is producing some of the world’s finest Chardonnay at present. Yes, the very best Burgundy does represent the zenith of this noble grape, but it comes at no small price. There is a proliferation of high quality Australian Chardonnay to be found between $30 and $60 per bottle, ranging in style from the ‘of the moment’ steely and flinty to richer, fully worked examples.

Ballarat isn’t the first region that rolls of the tongue when it comes to Australian Chardonnay (or any Australian wine for that matter). However, the 2013 Byrne Chardonnay confirms just how well Chardonnay is suited to Australia’s cooler regions, including Ballarat.

Stylistically, it eschews the extremes of modern Australian Chardonnay – this is not a lean and mean Chardonnay, but a well honed, generous style that displays an excellent balance of creamy texture, citrusy acidity and oak-driven complexity. Although only 15% new oak is used, it lends its presence in the form of grilled nuts, subtle vanilla and spice.

2013 BYRNE CHARDONNAY
Producer: Byrne Wines
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2013
Region: Ballarat, Victoria
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $38.00
Date tasted: 3 January 2015

Tasting Note:
Bright greenish yellow. Open nose of honeydew melon, candied apples, grapefruit zest, roasted hazelnuts and subtle vanilla. Medium bodied, slightly creamy in texture but balanced by fine, delicate acidity. Stonefruit and melon intermingled with well judged classy oak. Grapefruit acidity carries the finish. Immaculately balanced.
Score: 17/20

2009 GIACONDA NANTUA - HE AIN'T HEAVY, HE'S MY BROTHER

Few Australian producers occupy a more venerated position when it comes to Chardonnay than Beechworth’s Giaconda. Giaconda Estate Chardonnay is arguably Australia’s greatest white wine. For those wanting to experience Giaconda without the $100 plus price tag, Nantua provides an excellent insight into the house style.

Sourced from estate grown fruit and grapes sourced from neighbouring vineyards, Nantua is principally Chardonnay, with a touch of Roussanne thrown in for good measure. Like the Giaconda Estate Chardonnay, it is a wine that is generous in flavour. In some respects, it is a slightly traditional Australian Chardonnay, with generous stonefruit and pear intermingled with forward nutty oak.

Nantua is a powerful and full flavoured wine well suited to richer seafood and white meat dishes. While it may lack some of the finesse and structure of its more prestigious sibling, it is nonetheless a very good quality Australian Chardonnay.

2009 GIACONDA NANTUA
Producer: Giaconda
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2009
Region: Beechworth, Victoria
Alcohol: 13.0%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 26 October 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright lemon yellow with golden hints. Inviting nose of white peach, nectarine, fig, honey and nutty oak. At the fuller end of medium bodied, round and moutfilling, lots of flavour; nougat, cashew, pear and stonefruit. Classy oak is very well integrated and lends complexity. Generous depth of flavour and lovely complexity. Slightly ‘old school’ in feel, but that’s no bad thing.
Score: 17/20

2010 CRITTENDEN ESTATE 'THE ZUMMA' CHARDONNAY - NEW AND OLD

Australian Chardonnay has undergone a quantum shift in the past 15 or so years. The brash butterscotch-laden Chardonnays of the 1990’s are dinosaurs of the past, replaced by a more refined style of Chardonnay that is on the whole steelier and more tense. If one is to be critical, some contemporary Australian Chardonnays are a bit mean and lean and could do with more meat on the bones.

Crittenden is one of the established names of the Mornington Peninsula, initially at Dromana Estate and subsequently a stone’s throw away at Crittenden Estate. 2010 Crittenden Estate ‘The Zumma’ Chardonnay, the estate’s flagship white, bridges the gap between new wave and old school Chardonnay.

It delivers a typical Chardonnay bouquet of pear, apple, stonefruit and melon with subtle oak in the background, all of which are reflected on the palate. Gently creamy in texture, there’s something here for those that yearn for Chardonnays of past, though it's far from over the top. While there are a number of things to admire, the wine lacks a touch of drive and lift to elevate it into the very top echelon.

2010 CRITTENDEN ESTATE ‘THE ZUMMA’ CHARDONNAY
Producer: Crittenden Estate
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $50.00
Date tasted: 28 September 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Prototypical Chardonnay nose of red apples, honeydew melon and pear, grilled nuts. Medium bodied, gently creamy in texture, a ‘new wave meets old school’ style of Chardonnay. Elegant and stylish but just lacking a touch for complexity.
Score: 15.5/20

2010 NGERINGA CHARDONNAY - I WANNA BE RICH

Ngeringa is a relatively young producer based near the summit of Mount Barker (not to be confused with Mount Barker in Western Australia’s Great Southern region) in the Adelaide Hills. What is now a vineyard was formerly used for growing herbs and flowers for premium cosmetics brand Jurlique.

Ngeringa is 100% biodynamic and boasts an eclectic range that includes usual suspects such as Chardonnay and Syrah, as well as a Nebbiolo and Vin Santo-styled sweet wine. The 2010 Chardonnay from Ngeringa holds up very well, especially for those who don’t mind a touch of ‘Old School’ richness and roundness in their Chardonnays.

Full bodied, and will noticeable but well integrated nutty oak, the wine is in the slot for current drinking. There are better Chardonnays out there, but this is a very satisfying drinking, especially when one is in the mood for something a touch richer and fuller.

2010 NGERINGA CHARDONNAY
Producer: Ngeringa
Variety: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2010
Region: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
Alcohol: 14.0% ABV
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $40.00
Date tasted: 2 August 2014

Tasting Note:
Bright golden yellow. Open nose of nutty oak, peach/nectarine stonefruit. At the fuller side of medium bodied. Quite full and round – rich Chardonnay that has an almost ‘Old School’ feel about it. Stonefruit and grilled nuts (cashew, hazelnut). A nice match for fish pie. In the slot for current drinking and unlikely to improve further.
Score: 16/20

THE PENGUIN ON TOUR: ALSACE - PART THREE - DOMAINE ZIND-HUMBRECHT

Even by the standards of Alsace, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht has a large portfolio, with around 35-40 wines traversing the region’s noble varietals (and one or two that aren’t!), vineyards and residual sweetness levels.

The estate is based in the village of Turckheim roughly 15 kilometres north of Colmar. The estate style, if one was to typify it, favours boldly flavoured, powerful wines that need at least medium term cellaring to reveal their full potential. To some extent, the wines tend to be marked by power more than finesse, but this is a small criticism.

In this particular imbiber’s opinion, the wines of Zind-Humbrecht are in marked contrast to those of Trimbach, which tend toward austerity and a steely line of acidity when young. Some might find the generosity (and occasional high alcohol levels one encounters) of certain Zind-Humbrecht wines to be a touch excessive. But it is very much a matter of personal taste. Of the wines tasted on this visit, Gewurztraminer Hengst at 15% ABV was one of the real stars; powerful and rich, but balanced, stylish and complex.

2012 MUSCAT GOLDERT GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Muscat
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Located in the village of Guebschwir.
Densely textured. Typical ‘grapey’ Muscat character. Dry, quite rich, slightly oily. Long finish.
Score: 17/20

2012 ZIND
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Chardonnay (70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Auxerrois)
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Aged in new foudres. Use of Chardonnay, only allowed in Cremant d’Alsace, means that it has to be labelled as a Vin de Table.
Lifted nose of lime and grapefruit, touch of oak spice. Citrussy acidity up-front, stone-fruit on the mid—palate. Somewhat of an oddity in the realm of aromatic Alsatian wines.
Score: 15.5/20

2012 RIESLING HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Fruit grown on the plains of Turckheim.
Direct and straightforward on both the palate and nose. Seems a touch dilute. Key lime pie?
Score: 15/20

2012 RIESLING 'CLOS HAUSERER'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Vines planted in 1973 and 1974.
Slightly closed. Delicate citrus aromatics, stonefruit. Quite textured on the palate. Structured. Not yielding much at present but shows promise.
Score: 16+/20

2011 RIESLING 'CLOS WINDSBUHL'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
2012 vintage is still fermenting! Grown on pure limestone at 250m elevation.
Direct nose of stonefruit and spice. Lovely underbelly of fine acidity. Showing the benefit of bottle age and starting to fill out. Very good.
Score: 16.5/20

2011 RIESLING BRAND GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Zind-Humbrecht owns seven parcels in Brand. Pink granite soils.
Delicate. Starting to come together. Zesty lemon/lime sherbet. Concentrated. Alive!! Real structure for ageing.
Score: 17/20

2012 RIESLING BRAND GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
11g/l residual sugar – slightly sweeter than the 2011.
Soft acid line. Open and forward. Not as compelling as the 2011.
Score: 16/20

2012 RIESLING RANGEN DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Riesling
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Southern-most Grand Cru in Alsace. Volcanic soil. 350m-400m elevation.
Slightly baked character. Rich, flinty and smoky. Some real interest.
Score: 17/20

2011 PINOT GRIS
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Delicate. Medium sweet. Typical apple and pear fruit profile. Slightly pinched on the finish, A touch simple.
Score: 14.5/20

2012 PINOT GRIS ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Elegant and delicate. Apple, pear and spice. Dry. Nice balancing acidity. Young and structured – needs time.
Score: 16/20

2011 PINOT GRIS ROTENBERG
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2011
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Freshly buttered toast. Lime/lemon, red apples and spice. More open than the 2012. Good.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 PINOT GRIS RANGE DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Open and inviting nose of baked apple pie. Medium sweet. Roundly textured. Sweet but balanced. Yum!
Score: 17/20


2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Prototypical Gewürztraminer nose – lifted, musky and floral. Dry, round and creamy – very much a food style. Desperately needs appropriate food; onion tart perhaps?!
Score: 16.5/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER CALCAIRE
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Two parcels of younger vines, mostly from Hengst.
Coiled. Quite subtle. NOT in your face Gewürz. Off-dry, yellow plum, baked pear/apple.
Score: 16.5/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER HENGST GRAND CRU
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Hengst is a late ripening site.
Dense and concentrated. Touch of Earl Grey tea. Funky and earthy. Real interest on display here. Medium sweet, quite spicy. Opulent but far from over the top. Well balanced.
Score: 17.5+/20

2012 GEWÜRZTRAMINER RANGEN DE THANN GRAND CRU 'CLOS ST URBAIN'
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Gewürztraminer
Vintage: 2012
Region: Alsace, France
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
Concentrated, open and intense. Not as complex, but more restrained and elegant than the Hengst. Compact and stylish.
Score: 17/20

2010 PINOT GRIS CLOS JEBSAL SÉLECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES ‘TRIE SPECIALE’
Producer: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Variety: Pinot Gris/Grigio
Vintage: 2010
Region: Alsace, France
ABV: 6.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: N/a
Date tasted: 3 June 2014

Tasting Note:
More than 200g/l residual sugar. From the lower part of the Brand Grand Cru.
Golden yellow. Very intense and powerful. Rich baked fruit, raisins. Butterscotch and honey. Very long.
Score: 18.5/20