2014 MESTIGUILLO MESTIZAJE TINTO - REVIVAL

You mightn’t be aware, but Bobal is the third most heavily planted variety in Spain. Plantings are centred around the city of Valencia in Spain’s south-east. In recent times, there has been a renewed interest in the variety, and a greater emphasis on producing refined wines.

Such is the status of Bodega Mestiguillo as a producer, that it has its own DO. It is a family-owned venture, practising organic viticulture. Among others, the estate has been instrumental in reviving the fortune of Bobal.

This particular wine blends Bobal with Tempranillo and Garnacha, as well as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Reflecting its warm southern origins, it is bursting with flavour and personality. There’s a lot to like here, especially for those looking for a savoury accented, full flavoured wine for the dinner table.

2014 MESTIGUILLO MESTIZAJE TINTO
Producer: Bodega Mestiguillo
Variety: Bobal, Grenache, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
Region: El Terrerazo, Spain
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Screw cap
Retail Price: $30.00
Date tasted: 28 September 2017

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Slightly closed initially. Opens up to reveal dark berry fruit, woodsmoke and spice. Plenty of flesh on the bones. Luscious and succulent, immaculately balance and well poised. Blood plum, boysenberry and dark cherry. Aniseed, liquorice and toasted fennel seeds.
Score: 16/20

2013 DOMINIO DEL UROGALLO ‘LA ZORRINA’ - SWEET & SOUR

The Asturia’s is a relatively cool region of northern Spain better known for cider than fine wine. A new generation of producers is leading a quiet revival in this little known region, focussing on indigenous grapes including the likes of Carrasquin and Albarin Tinto.

Nicolas Marcos is the man behind Dominio del Urogallo. Having trained under Alain Graillot in the northern Rhone and made wine in Toro, he saw his future in the Asturias. La Zorrina, a single vineyard wine, is the estate’s flagship.

Made from 55% Carrasquin blended with other local varieties, it sees 100% whole bunch fermentation in Asturian chestnut barrels, prior to being transferred to 228hl oak barrels for maturation. Vine age is up to 130 years, and the soil type is slate and quartz. No added sulphur dioxide is used.

As to the wine itself, raspberry and cherry lead the way. There is a slightly, though not off-putting acetic note. Pomegranate, ashphalt, freshly ground pepper and exotic florals lend complexity. Stylistically, there’s a hint of Pinot Noir and cool climate Syrah about this wine. The truth is, it has its own personality. There’s a lot to like here, for those prepared to try something a bit different.

2013 DOMINIO DEL UROGALLO ‘LA ZORRINA’
Producer: Dominio del Urogallo
Variety: Other Spanish red varietals
Region: Asturias, Spain
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $85.00
Date tasted: 30 July 2017

Tasting Note:
Deep ruby. Attractive nose – slightly floral (violet, lilac), hint of pepper, black cherry and pomegranate. Acetic notes. Medium bodied, elegant and pert, almost Pinot-like in feel. Sour red fruits, pomegranate and morello cherry. Quite high acidity. Delicious and well composed.
Score: 17+/20

2013 DOMINIO DEL UROGALLO PESICO TINTO - ROCK OF AGES

Nicolas Marcos is the man behind Dominio del Urogallo. Situated in the Asturias region near Spain’s Atlantic coast, this is a region like many in Spain that is being rediscovered. Although it is better known for cider production, it has a history of wine production dating back over 1,000 years.

Marcos brings to the table a wealth of experience including several years with Alain Graillot in the northern Rhone as well as his family bodega in Toro. The Cangas del Narcea sub-region in the Asturias couldn’t be more of a contrast to sun-drenched Toro, with its cool maritime climate and steep, rocky slopes.

A low intervention approach is used here, with no sulphur dioxide additions whatsoever. Pesico Tinto is a four-way blend of largely unfamiliar varieties (Carrasquin, Albarin Tinto, Verdejo Tinto, Albillo), though Verdejo Tinto is the same as Trousseau, of France’s Jura region.

The wine itself is alluringly aromatic, very floral and attractive. It is medium bodied, compact and fine, a panoply of red, black and blue fruits delivering a real sweet and sour character. In sum, it is a delicious and thought provoking wine. This is a region and a producer to follow with interest.

2013 DOMINIO DEL UROGALLO PESICO TINTO

Producer: Dominio del Urogallo
Variety: Carrasquin, Albarin Tinto, Verdejo Tinto, Albillo
Region: Asturias, Spain
ABV: 13.5%
Closure: Natural cork
Retail Price: $45.00
Date tasted: 26 November 2016

Tasting Note:
Bright crimson. Attractive floral nose – lilac, rose petal and violet, black cherry and plum. Dry, medium bodied, real ‘sweet and sour’ going on here – the overall impression is savoury. Red meets black fruits, sprinkle of white pepper. Good length with acidity carrying the finish. Ready to go. Delicious.
Score: 17/20

2011 SAN ESTEBAN ‘LA PERRA GORDA’ - GIVIN' THE DOG A BONE!

Of all of Spain’s region’s, none is more ‘of the moment’ than the north-west. Ribera Sacra, Valdeorras and Bierzo have emerged on the global wine scene in the past 5-10 years and now occupy prized places on restaurant wine lists and merchant’s shelves.

Spain’s north-west enjoys a maritime climate verging to continental as one moves further inland. Rainfall is relatively high. In terms of grape varieties, Godello and Albarino dominate for white and Mencia for red.

Mencia is sometimes compared to Cabernet Franc; both share a relatively deep colour and lifted pencil shaving aromatics. This particular example is a modest Vina de la Tierra (table wine) and therefore carries no vintage designation on the label. Stylistically, it sits at the modern end of the spectrum, with no lack of extract.

It is a wine that desperately needs food, marked sandy tannins making it a rather edgy wine to drink on its own. With grilled lamb cutlets, it would come into its own. Although not particularly complex, there is plenty to enjoy here. ‘La Perra Gorda’ is a welcome diversion from the well trodden road of Rioja and Ribera del Duero.

2011 SAN ESTEBAN ‘LA PERRA GORDA’
Producer: Altos de San Esteban
Variety: Mencia
Vintage: N/a
Region: Castilla y León, Spain
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Synthetic cork
Retail Price: $25.00
Date tasted: 16 January 2015

Tasting Note:
Deep crimson. Open nose of blackberry/cherry coulis, stewed plums, graphite, charcoal, wet earth. Medium bodied, intensely flavoured (no lack of extract), sour dark berry fruit. Quite direct and simple. Sandy tannins carry the finish. Needs food, ideally fatty protein such as lamb.
Score: 15.5/20